Rob Board

Jai Please contact me by phone, as your e-mail server seems to be down???? It returns all my messages. 01264 332266 Cheers Rob

The above are for sale £6 each, which is inclusive of P&P.Both are for a de-dion car. Cheers Rob. BUILD MANUAL SOLD. PARTS CATALOUGE ONLY AVAILABLE 27.7.04 20.25hrs Edited by - rob board on 27 Jul 2004 20:20:10

jdb Please re send your e-mail or phone 01264 332266 after 7pm most eves as I cannot reply to you private mail. Problem with your address/server???? Cheers rob

Due to me parting with my Caterham, the following bits are for sale. Fitted Caterham Cotton dust cover-£25-SOLD Vynil Hood Bag with embroided "7" at ends-£25-SOLD 6 speed engraved alloy gearknob-£25-SOLD 2 in number front indicator mounts and lenses for cycle/flare wings-£4 the pair-SOLD Water Temp sender for Caterham Gauge-£3-SOLD Rear de-dion hub nut(clear insert)-£2-SOLD "On/On" switch for dash ie(dipped main beam, or oil/water temp switch)-£2-SOLD Pair of Caterham standard horns (2002 car)-£6-SOLD Steady support for FIA Bar, ie the one that clamps behind the driver to support your Head/Helmet-£10-SOLD Purchaser to pay P&P. I appreciate some of the bits are only small, but they may be of use to someone Cheers Rob. Edited by - rob board on 24 Jul 2004 10:18:51 Edited by - rob board on 27 Jul 2004 20:01:06

Richie. A couple of options. I know that OTC who do the trimming for CC will make a bespoke insert to match your seats, but pricey at about £100. I have seen one that they made for CC themselves, so that Zoe in aftersales could drive all the cars.( She is quite short also). As I say pricey, but looked the DBs. OR.. You can remove the seat and place a bit of plywood on the floor pan, drill out the bolt holes and fix with longer bolts. This allows the seat to clear the front cross member on the floor, which is the governing factor. (I have done this as my wife is 5ft nothing!!). Only drawback is that unless you have an SV, with the seat right forward, due to the width of the cockpit, the seat does get very tight, and can easily foul the door fixing straps/armrest. Lastly, strech her legs 😬 Cheers Rob

YHM

Hi Gents. Popped into my local Rover dealer today in the 7, for a sump washer, and the parts/technical guy was very keen to have a look. Asked if I had any problems with the head gasket. "No" I reply "but I hear of a few people who have." " Shouldn't really tell you this, but Rover technical have admitted that the water jackets, particularly around the oil filter housing can be marginal. When I spoke to technical, and in particular the guy who deals with the warranty issues, he has told us to overfill all the expansion tanks by about 1-1.5". So if the expansion tank loses a bit of water you don't go to critical levels." (apparently as little has 1/2 a pint from the watersystem can be enough to upset the HG!) "THIS is what causes HG's to go" He also stated that if they see a car in for service with a low expansion tank level, particularly MGF, then within a year they can gaurantee it will be in for a HG" He also recommended that I change the expansion tank cap EVERY service ie 6k miles. This particular dealership as a matter of course recommend this to all their customers. As if it fails, or starts to allow water to atmosphere, which they say they see a lot of, then due to the marginal water level the HG is at risk. So I bought one 😬 and overfilled my tank!! Seems stupid not to change it as it's only £3.80! I know there has been some talk of this on BC. Anyway Rover know they are prone, and so now most dealerships (this one did) have an expansion tank cap pressure tester to test for potential failures. Just thought it was worth passing this very helpful "from the horses mouth" info on. If it helps prevent any failures or helps anyone out can be no bad thing. Cheers Rob Edited by - rob board on 29 Apr 2004 23:45:05

DB Regards your question about cleaning? I recently had a snag with my tin top and took it to an fuel injection specialist. After having a look at it, he asked me if I use supermarket fuel. "Yes, as it's cheaper". According to him, and the Dept Of Transport, (He informed me that they had just been sent a memo by them, regarding cars failing emmissions tests on MOTs, due to the Lambda sensors gumming up, due to poor detergent levels in supermarket petrols), the more expensive fuel IS better. However if it makes you go faster, who knows??? You pays your money you takes your chance. Cheers Rob

Hi All Done a search on oil filters for the K series and general consensus is the Halfords jobbie is the one to go for. Question, I have a 2002 1.8K 140 BHP roadsport. Could someone please tell me what the number is, as someone has very helpfully removed some the ID pages from the oil filter ready reckoner in my local store. Am I right in thinking it's one from a 200 series rover? Thanks in advance Rob

An inexpensive (£5-10) universal alignment tool can be bought from any auto factor or Halfords etc. Or you may be lucky and have a socket or old peice of tube that meets your requirements. Last time I helped a mate change a clutch we used one of his wifes wooden spoons 😬 as an alignment tool. If you can't find anything suitable then fork out the tenner. Cheers Rob

Try looking at the right angle connector that comes out of the rear of the gearbox. I was under mine at the weekend and notced mine had come loose, to the the point of dropping off. Only takes 30secs to tighten up. this may be a good point. If not do a search on "speedo", and I'm sure loads will come up. Cheers Rob Edited by - Rob Board on 25 Apr 2004 19:05:21

Kev I would say it is definitley grease from what you say. I had ecaxtly the same snag with my Roadsport last year. It happened because Caterham were trialing a new drive shaft, and there were fitment issues. Apparantley, the diff was rubbing against the drive shaft and allowing grease to leak from the end cup. (The cup with the splined shaft that fits into the diff). CC changed it under warranty, so I did not get to see if it had perished the cup, or if there is a seal which was chaffed by the rubbing diff. Anyway, they fitted the old style shafts, which I presume you will have, and no snags since!!!!! 😬 To answer your question, the diff simply pushes into place (there is a small circlip in the diif end of the spline) and is also aided by the de-dion ear/hub assy/drive shaft hub nut, at the other end, holding the shaft in place. Simply undo the hub nut on the offending side. (Caution: I think???? the offside is a LH thread?), and remove the drive shaft thru the dedion ear. (Can't remember if the rear brake disc etc had to come off. Someone with more knowledge will tell you, or do a search.)No diff oil should escape,as the level is just below the drive shaft hole, (was on my LSD) and you can then inspect the drive shaft. I did mine from advice recieved on BC, and it came out easily 😬. Once you can ascertain the snag, you can then make a repair. Hope this helps Rob.

Woolly Where did you get your horns from and how much?? Cheers Rob. OOPs just done a search and found all the info 😬 Edited by - Rob Board on 26 Mar 2004 11:47:15

Mike, Some are steel, but the majority are alloy. Cheers Rob

Mike I agree with B.O.S. heat is what you need. Something like a plumbers gas torch. Can be bought for about £10-15 from DIY store, and come with their own aresol style gas cannister. Heat up the fittings and try and break the seal. If no joy keep heating/tweaking. I use these fittings at work on hydraulic systems upto 3500 psi, and regularly heat them up if difficult to remove.You won't melt the sump pan, just be a bit judicious to begin with, eventually they will give, but you may need a good bit of force! Best bit of advice I can give you is to use a flare/crows foot wrench to remove the fittings, or ideally a ring spanner. If they are solid and you use an open ended spanner you run the risk of slipping and damaging yourself/fittings. (Done it and it hurts 😬) Cheers Rob

PC Thanks very much for answering my question. Cheers Rob.

Peter C. You said in your reply that the viscosity goes against all you know abut K's. Just wondered if you could elaborate, and make your reccomendations. Cheers Rob.

Yes Indeed, I've just done another search with different criteria. (Not computer minded at all!!!), and answered my own thread. Mintex do make the pads and Questmead are the company to call! Thanks very much anyway. Cheers Rob (the computer illiterate 😬)

Finmac YHM.

Hi gents. For Caterhams AP big brake set up can anyone tell me if aftermarket pads are available, or must I go to Caterham? (I take it no other vehicle pattern pads will fit if it's a bespoke item, or am blowing out my arse?)I have done a search, and plenty of threads said various companies were to make replacements, but I am unsure of whom. All I know is pagid are too pricey for me. So I was thinking mintex 1144/55, but am unsure of the part numbers and price, compared to the Caterham pads. Any details of suppliers (auto-factors????)etc greatly received. Thanks Rob.

Nick, YHM. Finlay & Mini, think the fronts are sold as someone rang this morning on mobile prior to me checking BC. However if he falls thru, you two are in line on a first post first served basis, that way all is fair. As soon as I know I'll post. Ed, YHM. Cheers Rob

Following for sale. 1.Pair of "Wrap around Carbon Wing Protectors" as supplied by Millwood garage. Cover halfway up the rear wings. Clear C/F. RRP £95 Sell for £40.- SOLD 2. Pair standard CC side mirrors. £10- SOLD 3. Ali rear wing protectors (used) Free, just pay P+P.- TAKEN 4. Pair of used GRP Rear wings, £40- SOLD 5. Pair of front Bare Carbon Fibre Cycle wings. As supplied by Hamilton classics. Pre Drilled to accept bolts to stays. Ideal for racer or cheap upgrade. £45-SOLD 6. Gearknob Leather look 6 speed Caterham item. £5 On all items, buyers to pay p+p, or I can deliver as appropriate. E-mail or call Mobile 07770 848210 any time or Home 01264 332266 eves and W/E Cheers Rob. Edited by - rob board on 11 Mar 2004 14:48:01 Edited by - rob board on 11 Mar 2004 20:56:26 Edited by - rob board on 13 Mar 2004 09:45:14

Hi all. Can anyone tell me the thread size on the K series oil pressure sender. 1.8 Roadsport, 2003, with wet sump. I was thinking of buying a braided hose to move the sensor up into the engine bay, using the existing sandwich plate. Is this acceptable, as I know CC kit gives you a new plate, and is the sender a Rover part?? Any preference on sighting and length of hose needed, bearingin mind that if I order a hose to my spec I can put the sender where I like? Also I beleive I can remove one of the threaded bungs, and insert an oil pressure switch, (or do I need to buy an inline adaptor/T peice),to give me a warning light on the dash. Again what thread size, and operating pressure is the considered opinion to opt for, then I can contact "think automotive" and place an order. Cheers in advance Rob.

Steve. If you are using the socket with a normal breaker bar and ratchet it does not make a blind bit of difference which socket you buy. The only suggestion I would have is to buy a 6 sided socket. These are stronger, and give better contact on the nut. I bought one from my local autofactors, (impact type) for about £5, and it had a lifetime warranty . You only need to be careful if you have an impact gun, and use non impact sockets, as these can then shatter. Also try and use a decent breaker bar that does not flex as this will make your life a lot easier. Hope this helps Rob.

You can buy a rubber wheel that fits in the end of a drill, that will take off transfers. I think it is predominantley used by body shops to remove stick on side/pin stripes prior to spraying, and it will not damage the paintwork. A good body shop supplier should sell you one, and advise if it will do your larger stickers. If not I know Snap On do one for reasonable money. If you need the pattern number let me know. Cheers Rob.