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DPR Motorsport. here

I don't think you have a problem with the releasing agent here, 90 miles is more than enough to clean the top surface up. I'd suggest some deliberate tyre spinning which you can least enjoy even if it doesn't improve rear end grip :)

You need to at lease loosen the diff...... ☹️

You've probably considered this but painting it would work, can get etch primer and matt black paint from Halfords. Rob

I damaged the threads on one of my front calipers in a crash. I sent it to AP and they helicoiled it for me and refurbished the caliper for not a lot. So it definately can be done. Is there also not a copper washer between the nipple and the caliper? Maybe the lack of this washer caused you to overtighten the nipple? Rob

I've seen you can get one of those tanks in a tank from 7 tweeks. Think my preffered choice is a smaller tank though. Does anyone know if Arch make a smaller tank that says holds 5 litres only? Rob B

Just re-read your post, sorry for bleating on, didn't realise you needed it for your insurance policy. I'd just go with your rolling road results. You don't know what losses you have and the smaller value the better I'm sure. Rob

Krismuss, EFA is spot on, there is no accurate calculation. Only way to do it accurately would be to bench dyno your engine. Unfortunately different dynos give different readings and the different dyno technicians decide on assuming different losses. The more % losses they assume the better your engine looks to be performing. However in the real world the power at the wheels is all we are really interested in. Suggest you see how it goes and then when you decide you want more power and you upgrade it, go back to the same dyno and in that way you can compare previous results. If you get someone who knows what they are doing and you get the engine re-mapped on the dyno you will find you get a much smoother power delivery. If you are running a busa the powercommander is a good first option to allow the engine to be mapped. Following that you can upgrade to an MBE system. Rob.

I also forgot one of the best bits is spinning your tyres before the line to get them hot. I don't know if it really works but is good fun.

67 seconds is pretty good for your first real event at Harewood. I run a busa Caterham and go in the LDMC championship here and the Auto 66 championship here. To beat Mr Green will take a lot of work on your car and a lot of practice. I'd suggest trying some other local events apart from Harewood where you'll meet other competitors in your class you can learn from and learn what you need to do to your car to make it faster. Use up your current tyres before you look at buying new ones! Will be at Harewood next month, see you there. Rob

You can also use high temp silicone sealant used for chimney flueshere Can get at most plumbing supply shops. Rob

On my stack dash you can select how many cylinders the engine has. This directly impacts how many revs are shown on the dash. Theoretically you could have the dash showing 5000 rpm when the engine was actualy reving at 2500 if you got it wrong. If the stack dash was bought directly from Caterham I don't think you can alter this parameter although if you send it to stack they can remove the lock on it. Just a suggestion. Rob

I've looked at socks as an option but have been told that this disturbs air-flow to a large extent and therefore impacts power negatively. Better to use a blank back-plate and cut it yourself - very easy. Pipercross are worth a go.

Fairy liquid sometimes helps.

I had it leak at this point once caused by damaged thread on the caliper after a crash. Sent it back to AP and they heli-coiled the thread which now is as good as new. Hope it isn't as serious for you, but there is a solution if you need it. Rob

Jason, UJ on engine end too. If I'd have known earlier that the MSA would change their minds on the requirement for a reverse box (you don't need one now) I'd have a centre bearing too (not that I'm bitter) Ho hum. Martyn, see you at Anglesey, I still have to fly back from New Orleans on Thursday to get home Friday morning to get my car prepped and drive to Ty-Croes (from Leeds) so might be a bit tired Saturday morning.... (excuse in early) Rob

Is held in place by 4 really small nuts at the back. You can get it off without removing the scuttle but it is a PITA and might require some reverse upside down positioning of yourself in the car before you can get access.

Think you might mean throttle 😬

Too slow, Jason's advice looks better anyway :)

I don't actually think you need one of these, I don't have one myself in my busa. Anyway, that advice will probably be no use right now so I'd suggets you give Bailey prop shafts a call, I think they sell them, might even have them on their web-site. I'll be at Anglesey too, see you there hopefully. Rob

Nick, I've used Zorstec in the past, their work looks good on the outside but If you are having any pipes welded be aware they do not purge the pipes which leads to internal petrusion of the weld which disrupts internal flow. They are fine at everything else but just a point bearing in mind. Thanks, Rob

I've tapped the callipers with a spanner to dislodge any nasty trapped air in the past. Worth a go maybe? Rob

Horse brush thing works well, just use some soap and water and it should get any stuck stones / etc off, might need to pick some of the more embeded ones out with your finger nails. Once clean you can use a sureform to get rid of any stuck rubber but wouldn't recomend using the sureform until after you have all the rubbish off. I've also used a heat gun and scraper which also works like the sureform with less effort but I'm not sure if it really does the tyres any good in the long term. Rob

It might be worth if buying a new sump tank to have an oil level gauge on the side of the tank (small clear tube with inlet at bottom of tank and outlet at the top of the tank). Does that sound sensible

I know some diesels have an extra electric water pump that continues to work after the engine has been on for extra cooling. It could well be this that you hear whirring.