PACR

My Halfords Torx socket has too thick a wall section to allow it to fit the more shrouded big end bolt head on my k-series properly. Before I spend my time grinding it down using the old electric drill and a file is there a source of thin wall sockets (1/2 or 3/8 drive) that will fit - Machine Mart or on-line etc. PACR

My old Mk 1 Escort's engine is a bit poorly.... Has anyone got a 1600 or 1700 X-Flow engine, and box perhaps, looking for a good home after going bike engined? I'm not too fussed about having a 1700 Sprint spec - I think a 1600 on a single carb is going to be easiest and not mean having to move the servo or uprate the axle location. Otherwise I might have to go the (Granada) Pinto route.... I would fit a bike engine in it but I'm not sure the world is ready for a 13000 rpm snot green 30yr old Escort...... PACR

The sumps got plenty of slivers of bearing material in it.... the quantity in the foam under No 2 big end make it a prime suspect. Time to make a shopping list..... PACR Edited by - pacr on 19 May 2004 18:56:15

It's not like the FIA bar with a bolt from below is it? Directly above the top rear damper mounting. If not, you might be able to use a small drift from here to get the bugger out. Or tap the hole and use a bolt to push it out (if there's anything to push against - might just be the open end of the tube in there). PACR

FROM http://www.gmecca.com/byorc/dtipsaerodynamics.html "Now, as the air flows over the hood of the car, it's loses pressure, but when it reaches the windscreen, it again comes up against a barrier, and briefly reaches a higher pressure. The lower pressure area above the hood of the car creates a small lifting force that acts upon the area of the hood (Sort of like trying to suck the hood off the car). The higher pressure area in front of the windscreen creates a small (or not so small) downforce. This is akin to pressing down on the windshield. " Theory is that over the main section of the bonnet there is low pressure (i.e. where hot air exhausts from under bonnet through louvers) but in front of the screen is an area of higher pressure. I'm not too sure if there's any practical benefit in relocating the air intake from it's position under the, in theory, low pressure area of the bonnet 'surrounded' by warm air to where it can be fed with cool, higher pressure, air. I know someone has done it, whether it was worth the effort or not would be interesting to find out. I suppose the best bet is make one, try it with and without and if it works keep quiet and hope it's not outlawed in the new 'standard induction system' rules for the sprints.... Piers Piers

I'm sure I've seen the Heater intake used as a cool, 'high' pressure induction intake with a box sitting where the heater usually sits. Has anyone found any (great) benefits from this? For the cost (time really) of knocking together an ally box, relocating the filter into it and running some alu trunking to the throttle body it seems like it could be cheap power - as long as it doesn't just suck in the hot air that's been vented further down the bonnet! It's a K-Series. PACR

Mine are knackered as well - you can see the movement in them as you jerk the front of the car up and down. I did think about converting to spherical bearings (got access quite a few in work) - rod end for the removeable top eye and figure out how to hold one in the welded on bit at the bottom. Bushes should just be a couple of quid though. Changing bushes can sometimes be the most difficult job to do. The old one either just drops out, or you stab yourself with a screwdriver trying to lever it out. I now use a little hacksaw - pop the blade through the centre of the bush. Fitting new ones requires 3 or 4 hands - hold part, hold anvil, hold new bush, hold socket, turn vice handle.... Support the back of the bit with the hole in it in a vice, lubricate bush with washing up liquid, use socket of suitable size to push bush into hole by tightening vice and keeping it aligned so as not to wreck the bush. It's sometimes easier to hold the part firmly in a vice and use a g-cramp to insert the bush. PACR

My girlfriends sister had "E666 JPE" as the reg on her diesel 205. I thought it would suit an evil beast of a JPE Seven quite well..... However no-one wanted to buy it, pity as I was looking forward to a sizeable commission....

Bugger - I got a standard oil pressure switch (not sender... sorry for confusion) which simply fits in palce of the blanking grub screw in the top of the sender / oil filter housing. I was going to wire it up firstly just as a lamp gaffer taped somewhere and then try to fit a bright LED or lamp in the oil pressure gauge housing as a neater solution. It was only because the switch was cheap and the blanking plug looked the right thread that I bothered trying. I can't remember the switching pressure or tolerence for the switch off hand - just figured that if it ever came on I'd better stop. I think it was more than zero, but not much more! I figured it would be useful on trackdays to make sure I wasn't running at low oil pressure on the long corners - I don't have the skill to get maximum cornering force whilst looking at the gauge needle (which wobbles about anyway) - a light flashing on will be easier to spot. PACR

Cheers - I'll tap into the green then. PACR

Not sure if there's any difference in heater units but the corner of my heaters casing has disintergrated. If any tough blokes have switched to 'heater less' and want to get some beer tokens for their old heater unit I'd willingly take it off your hands. PACR

I'm wiring up a Low Oil Pressure light (using a standard K-series sender) and whilst looking at the loom under the dash noticed there's a load of capped off wires. Are any of these a source of 12v with the ignition on? PACR

Fit numberplate bolts with the head inside the nosecone - stick them in place with epoxy silkaflex grp resin and mat. You've effectively got studs then. Then with the nuts on the outside it's quicker easier to change plates. You could probably get away with a cut down metal bolt and a thin locknut to hold it in place and a nylon nut to hold the plate on. PACR

My new 'tin-top' (well vinyl top as it's an MX-5) needs a new tyre. They are the same size as on my Caterham so I was thinking of using the currently unused 185/60 14 Avon ZV1 from the spare wheel (currently runs on RE720s). I do like to keep the same type of tyre at least across axles if not all round. Has anyone got a new ZV1 (from a swap to RE720s?) I can have for a bargin price in either the Huntingdon Northampton or Oxford area? PACR

As someone with Supersport cams I'm interested in getting the 'correct' timing but as I can see it being a one-off adjustment, hence not really getting the full advantage of vernier adjustable cam sprockets, can it be done with offset keys? If there enough 'meat' left on the overlap to provide sufficent locating strength - 11 degrees is quite a big shift? (I'm a cheapskate). PACR

I thought it was the carcass construction is better suited in one direction to take account of loading - drive at rear and braking at front hence opposite directions. Most directional tread patterns will be for rain clearing - dangerous to put these reversed if you venture out in the rain standing water. The small possible benefit of a better suited carcass will be lost when you aquaplane off the road track! AFAIK 21s have a non-directional 'pattern' so you can bias them for the carcass if you wish with little effect on water clearing properties. PACR

Get some of the HT testing 'lights' from Halfords or similar - they look like little orange spark-plugs and fit between the plug and the HT lead. I've found these very useful to investigate misfires - pulling the leads off in turn has led to a nasty gash on the back of the head from a Mini bonnet catch. I assume you've got electronic 'points' as you don't mention swapping them or the condensor (if not they are only a couple of quid). If you've got a spark to all the cyls at the right time and it doesn't fire properly it's possibly a fueling (too much too little) or compression issue - I messed up a valve clearance (made it negative! hence remained open, no compression) but was messing with the electrics for ages until I checked the sparks with the little gizmos. PACR

You should be able to get it from any decent motor factors (I got a Sachs one - lighter than the AP marked one I had before (which I think was Borg and Beck). I think you've got the same eng gbox as a rwd X-Flow Escort - mine was a 1.3 but I suspect if the 1.6 flywheel requires a different clutch unit it will be as easy to get. Check your spigot bearing - replace if in any doubt as when mine when it wrecked the clutch and a few bits of the box as well. PACR

What spec are the 8212s you've fitted Dave? I keep meaning to check if I can find any in the stores to fit my Caterham (I think your's is a live axle - will the length be much different from the De Dion?). I really ought to get a tape measure out and find someone who knows about the valving ranges. PACR

They are the bolt of choice for the discerning gentleman. Before we set up consignment stocking deals I thought it would be a good opportunity to upgrade some of the fasteners used on the Caterham. In particular the single shear radius arm bolt. Anyone know the size for this? What's the K in K-nut stand for? PACR

Does anyone have a list of the sizes of the 'Critical' bolts used in a Caterham? By critical I mean any of the suspension steering bolts esp. those in single shear. I am thinking of replacing them with NAS bolts (which I should be able to get hold of from our stock at reasonable cost) as part of a winter check-over program. Thanks PACR

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The bushes in my std Bilstein dampers are looking somewhat sad. Lying underneath fiddling with the sump has revealed that the bush is not sitting centrally in the housing anymore and is pushed considerably to one side by the force on it. Lifting the front sharply shows movement in the bushes, possibly what's causing the noticable lift of the nose on hard acceleration... Powerflex don't quote a replacement bush - anyone else had this issue? I can find the dosh for 4 bushes (maybe 8) quicker than for 4 new dampers. I suppose I could get the bush housings machined to take a spherical bearing and a couple of circlips but I'd probably be better off with some decent rebuildable servicable dampers. Cheers Piers

I need to find out what stroke is required - What's needed front and rear (widetrack front without the spacers - I assume a little longer)? The valving can be sorted out later if the sizes available are suitable. I don't think the Ohlins will fit due to the reservior on the side and the cost. How much are the Nitrons and similar? Piers

Does anyone run KONI 2812 series dampers in their Seven - if so what stoke and valving do you use (front and rear)? Also, does anyone use OHLINS dampers? Piers