PACR

The engine is normal wet sump. There had been an oil leak so it’s possible that the level dropped even more than I realised between checks and top up. I should have kept an eye on how much oil I had to add, and not just the drips in the tray perhaps.

As my 1.8 k series bottom end (‘99 SuperSport) has 2 knackered big ends and I’ve a stripped 160 trophy engine from a ZR (that I was going to pinch the head from) would it make sense to drop in crank, pistons (160 marked) & rods and liners into the current engine? Or is there any benefit to using the full trophy bottom end (and grinding clearance for the starter)? Piers

I found some slivers of metal in my sump. On stripping the engine the no 1 and 2 big end bearings look heavily fatigued. The no 3 and 4 look ok, bit scuffed like the mains. Is this an oil starvation issue? Is there some feed to 1&2 that is shared and possibly blocked? Any suggestions to prevent reoccurrence when I rebuild are most welcome. Photo of the offending bearings

Great news. Thanks Oily! I’ll continue with my rather slow upgrade plan. Piers

I’ve just got round to stripping down a VVC engine from a MG ZR 160. Good news is it does look to be a 160 bottom end with 160 on the piston crowns. Bad news is that the head has a crack halfway up (or down I suppose) the inlet port divider on cylinder 3. This was spotted on removal of the manifold before releasing the tension on the through bolts. It’s not changed to my eye now the head is off. The other cylinders seem to have a mark on the divider at the same point - I assume from the casting flow or rough cores. Other than that the head seems reasonably flat and the fire rings haven’t left big indentations - not sure if it’s been skimmed, it’s certainly been rebuilt at some point with a multi layer gasket. I didn’t see any major signs of gasket failure either prior to buying, stripping or on the head, but I have to assume the guy wanted to get rid of the car for a reason... I’ve not found my valve spring compressor so can only look down the port at the moment hence can’t see how far down the crack reaches. Is the head a scrapper? I couldn’t find any reference to a crack in this position in a quick search on the internet so I guess it’s not a case of it being common and likely to be ground out when modified. Is it worth rescuing by welding up - should I check skim history (is there a handy datum point to check a face depth to) and hardness prior to any further work anyway? Piers

I’ve had a binding brake calliper (std type 14) on the front for a while. It’s not going to fix itself. From memory servicing mini calipers many years ago it can be a right faff only to find after reassembly and bleeding it still binds. Has anyone had success with the seal / piston kits from Rimmer? I’ll assume I need at least one piston replaced. At £50 per calliper outright I’m tempted to replace both rather than service them.

That was me on my way home from work - making the most of the nice weather

Wow - just thought about the 'spotted' section having had a rare seven on seven encounter and discovered 2 mentions.

I was making the best of the good weather by using the 7 to commute this week.The run over Hackpen on my way to and from work is great - but the recent resurfacing and A048s mean a cabin full of gravel. I'd just come through Clyffe Pypard via the Dauntsey to Lynham hill when I saw you in the afternoon - another good run to liven up a commute but watch out for Corsas cutting corners.

I'm planning an EU2 1.8 Supersport to EU3 VVC 160 swap. It looks like a donor loom would be a good starting point. I don't know if there was an EU3 VVC loom from Caterham but any EU3 loom would be of interest. Let me know what you have and how much you want for it. Many thanks Piers

I'll take one as well. Although I think it's a dodgy relay box causing starting problems the battery never seems to recover from a winter of not being used. Hence I'm on my 3rd battery. Piers

Sold Edited by - PACR on 28 Oct 2006 20:50:46

Sold Edited by - PACR on 28 Oct 2006 20:50:25

Now Sold. Edited by - pacr on 28 Oct 2006 20:50:00

Cheers Chaps, I'll get a kit from Karsten. I'm a bit concerned about rear wings dragging behind the car on the light wires or others following hitting them on track days. Anyone ever had a problem with a flailing wing causing damage - or hitting someone elses? Piers

Due to a small but high speed excursion across the grass at Llandow I now have a cone sized dent in my half hanging off rear wing..... The little orange bugger has torn out the 5 rivnuts at the front of the wing - fortunately the rear bodywork hasn't been pulled out of line. I got through the sprint with an 8mm bolt through the spare radius arm hole and a bit of wood to spread the load, plus a couple of rawlplugs. Now the rivnut holes have a nice "crater" like profile - How do I fix it? The ali isn't torn and I suspect I could get a small bit of steel behind the raised bit and dress flat with a pin hammer. Replacement Rivnuts are cheap as chips but the tools seem pretty step. Anyone got one I can borrow in the Swindon Marlborough area for a suitable donation to Nuke the Luke? Any potential problems with reusing the damaged holes? Piers

MX-5 1.8s (Power Steering, AirBag, Elec Windows, ABS brakes, Alloys and Electric Ariel as standard. CD player and immobiliser fitted) Green 1994 M registered UK car MOT until Jume 05 £3495 ono Good news: I've done 25000 miles in 14 months and it's been totally reliable. It's sharp to drive (I bought it because of it's legendary handling - haven't been dissapointed), got reasonable levels of poke being the 1.8, body work and interior are in good condition - couple of door dings and the odd stone chip. Bad news: Those miles bring it up to 120000 which is bad if you like low mileage, or not bad if you like lower prices! The hood has a couple of small tears at the first fold but I've not replaced it as it dosn't leak and I don't have to worry too much about dropping the roof whenever it's not raining. It is due a service based on time miles but I've just been changing the oil regularly. Price is negotiable and I'm selling as I now qualify for a new car via my employer so I'll be taking advantage of it. Piers

I did the very same thing just a few months ago. I used some studding and lots of nuts (20 or so + penny and normal washers. Pretty cheap from Focus etc)). I think it was 12 mm but check first. 2 into the top of the block (into bellhousing holes) and two through the bearing ladder. Use the nuts to lock stud against arms and position enging for clearance. I think using a fixing point on the side is a better option though. Bearing ladder is a bugger to get off with 2, foot long 12mm steel bars through it... Piers

Mazda MX-5 for sale. 1.8 S 1994 registered UK Car British Racing Green It's got: Alloys - 14" originals, Power Steering, ABS, drivers Airbag, Face-off CD player (with electric ariel), Electric Windows. MOT until June 2005. Service history (Last couple of years have been none Mazda). £3999 (open to offers). There are a few dings (from car doors) but nothing major. It's done 116500 miles and is used every day. The hood has two small tears where the first fold is made. I was going to change it but it doesn't leak and you don't have to worry about it. I bought it in December last year and have put 20000 miles on it. I have had no problems at all with it but due to house purchase and lack of space threats from Girlfriend I have to sell a car. As I think this is more saleable than a 1974 Escort with no MOT it's up for sale. E-mail on piersrex@hotmail.com I am currently living in Didcot, South Oxfordshire and work in Swindon if anyone wants a look. Piers

I bought a tiny trolley jack in Focus for £14.99 yesterday. TUV approved so thought I'd have a look. It fits under the Seven well and having given it a try out on the old banger seems ok quality wise. You can carry it in one hand easily. Piers

Remember to undo the engine to chassis earth strap... They have a fantastic tensile strength and can support the weight of the front end of the car! Piers

I've found a strange Green Goo in the expansion tank of my k-series 7. It's got the consistancy of a chewy sweet and was noticable around the cap and neck. Peering inside there's also a bit round the tank. The coolent looks OK (i.e. doesn't appear to be a suspension of bits of green stuff) and having run some out of the rad neither the rad plug or coolent looks to have any green stuff in it. I'm sure there's some floating round the engine now though - seems to be cooling ok - getting a bit hot on motorway runs over the last few days but on normal roads is fine. Any ideas what this is and why it's formed? It had a fill of the red coolent during a service but has had a few doses of Halfords normal coolent since then and the engine has been rebuilt (so only the rad could have held a tiny quantity of coolent over). Piers

What's the provenance of the engine itself? I assume it's going to need grinding to get it into a Seven - what's it from? I'm after a new unit if it's easier, and not vastly more expensive, than replacing my crank and doing a rebuild. Let me know if everyone who got here first falls through... Piers

My k-series (1999 1.8 Supersport 24000 miles) has picked up No 2 big end bearing - and worn the crank under it's normal regrind limit. The caps a bit blue and looks worn as well so the con rod needs replacing as well. The head is fine, liners and pistons also look ok. DVA has some bits available but with gaskets, new bolts etc the rebuild is going to come in at about £450 - 550. He's also got a 160 bhp K out of a Lotus Elise, bit more expensive extra £1k or so) but fully rebuilt with some good bits by someone who knows what they are doing and ready to drop in. I could off set the cost of the new unit by flogging my head, with Supersport cams and mems, to someone with an overheating problem. I suppose it's got to be worth a couple of hundred to someone. On the other hand - how much would a standard short engine from a re-conditioner - or donor engine from a breakers cost? I suspect prices will be high due to the number blowing in normal Rovers Land Rovers. Is now a good time to go Duratec (I suspect the cost of fitting and extras rather than the engine will be the stumbling block here)? Or flog the 6 speed box and convert to a Honda Blackbird engine (costs of this)? Has anyone had problems with a DIY rebuild after a bearing failure - I'm concerned that bits of metal will appear at a later date and ruin a rebuilt engine. Any suggestions advice would be welcome! PACR

Cheers Oily! PACR