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Posts posted by Piers300
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My 1985 Super Sprint (sold 8/9 years ago)was the last Chassis number before the first De Dion. CC never offered me the option to have DD. My car was 4 speed live axle. So in 1985, both axle’s were available.
Piers
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I have 4 x 195/50/R15 AD08 Yokos . I need to clear space in garage. Each has a reasonable tread depth. Collect only from Canterbury/Dover area.
Piers
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Try checking the ECU earth connection. Mine had a poor connection and cold starting gradually got worse and worse, until it would not start, unless petrol was squirted into the T/B’s. Once hot it started and ran fine. The earth connection on mine was not a direct connection to the chassis. It is now and now it starts.
Piers
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Sounds like the voltage regulator in the alternator is not regulating correctly.
Piers
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A constant potential battery charger, I.e. Accumate - CTEk ect, work on the basis that when the float charge level of the battery (13.2 volts approx) and the charger output voltage are equal , I.e. the battery is fully charged, then no current flows. So even though the charger remains connected, it is not charging. When the battery condition changes due to some internal losses, the voltage changes and the charger then operates to charge the battery. You just leave it on, but do check the electrolyte level occasionally.
A float charger normally has a boost and trickle switch and if left permanently connected, will boil the battery dry.
Piers
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Sorry - should have given this information in above: In Tony Weale's book - Lotus Seven, he gives the following: First BDR Engined Caterham 7, serial number: LCS 4268 BD R M-BDR001
Piers
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In Rees's book, the BDR's have a chassis number within the sequence "4628 to 30696" with an HP suffix. See page 74.
Piers.
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According to Chris Rees in the Magnificent Seven book (v2), only 149 x 1600 BDR's and 269 x 1700 BDR's we built. The majority are in Japan I suspect. You don't see them very often.
I would keep it absolutely standard if you are keeping it as an investment, as that is what it will be. According to Jez Coates - it is the one to have. However, if you intend to use it, changing the front suspension to a better specification would not be a bad thing, as long as you kept the original components that could be refitted if needed.
A old friend of mine "Clive Stevens" had one and called it the Blue Meanie - registration number VNJ 7 which replaced his immaculate Holbay 1600 Sprint. He was never that fond of it and sold it to Japan and bought a Lime Green TVR. Unfortunately, he is no longer with us. I have some photos of it at a East Kent Meeting at Pluckley.
I also have some pictures of a BDR that turned up to a 7 Meeting at Goodwood in the summer of 1984. My new 7 was on order and I went there to chose a colour. This car must have been very very new and it was registration number: B444JTF. The photo I have of the engine looks like it has a Blue top cover.
On Clives car, it looks to be alloy and uncoloured.
Piers
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I've just been out to the garage to look at my spare coil. I have a 2004 R300 with distributor, so I expect it is identical to your coil. Unfortunately there is no part number other than he maker " Diellier " or something similar. I think it is a standard Rover coil for either the 1.6 or 1.8 engines.
Piers
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Hi Alan. Thank you for your response and the wheels you sold me, which are awaiting trial fitting this weekend. I will see if they fit the front, as it is already very tight with 45 section tyres.
I have four new CR500 195/45/15 tyres that I bought, as they seem to be getting more difficult to obtain. I will try your old wheels and tyres and if they fit - great. If not, then I will have the new CR500's fitted to your old rims. It is good to know the AD08's are good for the road.
Thanks
Piers
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I have just bought four x 15" Anthracite 10 Spoke Caterham wheels, which have 195/50/R15 82V ADVAN AD08 Yokohama tyres fitted.
I bought these for the 15" rims - not the tyres and know little about the Yokohama's.
I have my original 4 x 10 spoke 15" with 195/45/R15 CR500 Avon's fitted to my 7. There is minimal clearance with the front carbon fibre wheel mudguards brackets and always has been. I suspect the 195/50/R15 will not fit, but I have not tried yet - this weekend.
I understand that the Yoko's AD08's were used for competition and all the tyres have some tread left (between 3.5 and 5 mm) and are in good condition. Would there be a demand for these?
I intend to fit new 195/45/R15's that I have bought or is there so little difference between 45 and 50 section tyres that the may fit..
I don't do track days and are the AD08's suitable for road use ? How do they compare to the CR500?
Thanks
Piers
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Still looking.
Piers
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The fuel tank sender unit gasket's have a habit of disintegrating, duel to its reaction with the latest lead free petrol. I would replace it anyway.
Piers
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Still looking if anyone has some 15 inch wheels for sale.
Piers
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Great news it is fixed. I've been ready your posts and wondering when the issue was going to be found. I had a problem with my R300K not starting from cold that dragged on for three years, till a bad earth on the ECU was found. Anyway, delighted it is sorted.
Piers
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A nice looking orange Seven in Canterbury by the Cricket Ground at 11:10 this morning. Two up, a young lad having a nice passenger ride.
We were on our way to Waitrose.
Piers
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Ian. I have four brand new Avon CR500 195/45/15 to fit. My two rear tyres are down to 2.0 to 2.5 mm, so will need to be replaced at the end of this season. My existing rims are also in need of a complete refurbishment.
Piers
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Does anyone have for sale, either two or four off, 10 spoke Caterham Anthracite 6" wheels to fit the 195/45/15 CR 500 Avon tyre, with centers if possible.
I don't mind if they are a bit scruffy, as I will eventually have them refurbished. Alternatively, they could be immaculate having just been refurbished. They must run true and be in generally good condition.
I suffered my first 7 puncture today and was stuffed when I got the car out of the garage this morning, as I have no spare wheels. All my existing rims are very much in need of refurbishment, having had both rears off the car and had a good look at them.
I am based in Canterbury Kent, but will travel a reasonable distance to collect.
Piers
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Elie - please can you explain how does the rotor make the coil hot. Is it high resistance contacts inside the distributor cap ?
I would expect that Simon is still on his original distributor and the shaft and bearings in the distributor may have worn out, causing bad contacts within the cap. Is this causing the issue ?
Piers
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Hi Simon
I've been thinking about your coil. If the voltage is being reduced by a bad connection, then the current increases. So for example, a 12 volt system pulling say 6 amps, if you halve the voltage to 6 volts, you double the current to 12 amps. Your 7 is unlikely to go as low as 6 volts, but you get the point. So check every connection and make sure everyone is good.
regards
Piers
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Hi Simon
Trust all well. If the coil is getting very hot, I would look at the earth connection and the + connection and make sure it is good. It could be that a bad contact could increase current and resistance and this may be the reason for it getting so hot. I don't recall my Super Sprint coil getting that hot.
By the way, Charles has been in contact with a long email.
regards
Piers
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Looking at the graph at 1000 rpm idle speed, the alternator output is approx 12.00 volts. It does rise with a speed increase and mention has been made previously of alternator drive ratio. This should be around 13.2 to 13.5 at idle when first started. I suspect your alternator regulator is on its way out. Also you mentioned the red light coming on during hard acceleration. This is symptomatic of a diode failing to half wave rectification - i.e glowing rather than full bright. I would have the alternator serviced by a local starter motor/alternator shop.
Piers
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Peter This was part of the John Surtees family gathering which I was asked to be part of, as John was and old friend. Charles March is also a very old friend of mine and we have known each other for more than 45 years.
Thanks for the spotted as I had not seen this before.
Piers
SLR won't start - no spark
in TechTalk
Posted
Check ECU earth and all earth connections.
Piers