PhilKing

Hi, not sure if this is Tech Talk, but does anyone have plans, drawings for fabricating a roll bar mounted wheel rack. I have posted in wanted in case someone is selling one, but have contact that could make one if I can provide measurements and spec. If anyone can help much appreciated. Thanks Phil

As per title I am looking for a rollbar mounted tyre rack, fed up working out ways to get spare tyres to the track. Alternatively If anyone has plans on how to make one so I can get it fabricated that would be great. Thanks Phil

Thanks for the suggestions and tried a few others as well but a big thumbs up to Redline, who found the problem, loose bolt on roller barrels allowing air between rb's and block. So if you develop an annoying squeak and run roller barrels something to check.

Thanks for the idea, will try that now and see what happens. Phil

Following a track day my 1.8 k series engine has developed a very annoying squeak, bit like having a bird stuck under the bonnet. This appears to be coming from the cam ends where the blanking plates cover the rotatng ends on cabin end of the cylinder head. Have tried applying WD40 to this outer point, but no difference, not saying 100% from that but appears to be at that point. It is definitely revs effected so it does rise and fall with the revs. Has anyone any suggestions what to check or possible other sources, I have checked belts and it is not a belt squeal, it is driving me mad. Thanks any help much appreciated. Phil

Thanks David, that is spot on for what I need, will get it all ordered now. Appreciate your help. Cheers Phil

Can anyone help with this I am looking to fit a mechanical oil presssure gauge, but cannot work out what the fitting is for the connector to the block. I am running a 1.8 k series and there seems to be mulitple potential options, does anyone know what I need to order. Thanks very much for your help. Phil

Cheers Dignity, looks interesting will give it a go.

Has anyone got a good condition Ali Radiator they are interested in selling, need to get a replacement before the summer arrives, I should say I have a 1.8 k series. Thanks

Thanks Jason and Johnty will check this out, havng had a quick look seems like a great option, plus does not look to hard to fit. Appreciate the idea Phil

I am thinkng of fitting an oil cooler to my car, it is fine in normal road use, but having done a couple of track days the oil temperature gauge keeps hitting the mid to top of the red after about 10-15mins use. Firstly stupid quesiton but is this normal, I have a 1.8k series engine on roller barrels with apollo tank.On the days in question it has not been really hot and water temp seems to be fine. It is a dual water and oil temp gauge, could it be the sensor is showing wrong, it best to get individual gauges. However is it possible to fit an oil cooler with an apollo tank and has anyone got any suggestions to a good make and how easy is it to fit. I am not hugley technical minded but willing to take on most jobs. Any help or suggestion most welcome. Thanks

Not sure if there are any motorboating people out there, but due to some unfortunate circumstances I am looking to sell this company owned boat. This was bought by the business a few years back at the start 2010 when we also had the engines overhauled and new awnings fitted. I have attached the link below to the sales site, if any one is interested I am happy to accept offers on the asking price from anyone on this forum. Not being a boat person myself I will do my best to answer any questions, but do not expect too much. It is currently out the water as you can see from the pictures, based in Chichester. Linky There will also shortly be available a fully tracked personel carrier,with crane and a Bedford troop carrier for sale. We are shedding a few toys so if any one is interested please contact me 07712877902, I am getting photo's sorted over the weekend. Thanks for your interest Phil

Hi I had a similar problem and changed the tps I am running a 1.8k engine on roller barrels and just changing the sensor sorted the problem.

Thanks everyone, cleaned the switch as suggested and it works, well stopped the clicking just got back from a run out everything back to normal. Appreciate the info would never have considered that fix, but will remember it. Cheers again. Phil

Thanks Steve and everyone, just tried that and despite now having a problem with the hazzard light switch that was the problem the indicators now work thankfully. However it must be the switch for the hazzards as now it is causings a constant click of the flasher unit. Will disconnect the hazzards and see if the indicators still work at least that way I have a drive today and get a switch tomorrow. Thanks again. Phil

Hi Tim Not sure unfortunately I do not have a volt metre to check accurately but will check that there is power getting to the switch. I will try and borrow a metre from my brother and see what reading i get as well. Cheers Phil

As per subject my indicators have stop working and I am at a loss as to what to try next. I have changed the switch over to spare switch still nothing, checked the fuse which is ok and now changed the flasher unit but still they do not work. The hazzard lights work when you switch them on so the bulbs are all working, but nothing when using the indicators. Has anyone got any suggestions as to what to try next or have I missed something obvious, any suggestions welcome. Thanks for your help. Phil

Hi Geoff I will be booking it this weekend, so I will see you there. Cheers Phil

Hi Racingshoe like you I am finding the whole thing very fustrating it runs really well when cold only to drop in the stutter when hot. Will check the TPS next to see if that makes a difference, but like you I am no way qualified to look at a map and work out if that is the issue. After that I can see if the lamba sensor change helps, all worth a try. Also possibley check the coil packs again as the HT leads and plugs have all been changed, so maybe got damaged with the varying voltage. If all this fails I am guessing a trip to road and race to get them to check the map, but they mapped the engine originally and it has just been a drop in with the same engine and MBE so will try that last. Clousta having got stuck with no hood on the motorway for two hours in the pouring rain as the closed the motorway on the way back from Le Mans your skills with submarines could have been useful. Thanks for the tips will try these and update the results.

Thanks for all your help, i have now changed the alternator and that was the cause of the pulsing on the lights it was fluctuating between 14.5 and 16v, appreciate your help with that would not have considered that as an answer. The car appears to be running better but it still has the engine stutter. On the short run I have given, although the car was at proper temp, the stutter was not as pronounced but that could just be that I have not had an opportunity to get the car running really hot as it was on the long motorway trip. The output I have checked and it is running steady 14v now, but could the coil packs have been damaged with the alternator issue and so need changing again. Any suggestions appreciated as I really want to get this sorted for what might just be a nice summer and a few track days are in order. Thanks

Thanks Mick, will do that first, Cheers

Thanks for the advise, will look at getting the alternator checked, make sure it is working properly. Have heard that failing batteries can effect ECU so makes sense with alternator, it felt like the engine was not getting a spark hence the changing of the coil packs etc. Cheers

No the MBE was mapped to the engine so just plugged it in and went with that.

I have two very annoying problems that developed during my recent trip to Le Mans, could be that they are both unrelated but asking if anyone has an idea for either or both. I recently fitted a 1.8k series eu3 engine with roller barrels and MBE ecu changing from a 1.6k EU2 roadsport carusing the loom from the EU3 engine. Everything has been running well, but on the trip after about 1 hours motorway running it starts to develop a misfire or engine stutter better way to describe it. This clears if you accelerate, but if you try runnning at constant speed the engine starts to stutter. This developed into a constant problem unless accelerating, making driving it quite difficult. Was fortunate enough to find a MG / Rover dealer near Le Man and changed the coil packs, HT leads and Spark plugs. Seemed fine driving around, no stutter or mis fire, until started driving back and the same problem developed. The tick over has also changed it seems to be searching for revs varying from 1000rpm to 1500rpm and feels lumpy. Second problem is the lights now seem to pulse as do the interior switch lights and brake lights. I changed the alternator over from old engine onto this engine, stupid question are the alternators different. If anyone has any ideas on these problems very much appreciated. Thanks

Now sold