pburt

Just re-read the technique and note it says "run engine until warm". I actually left mine idling for a few minutes after a 10 mile easy drive and then dipped. Would that mean it was "hot" rather than just "warm" and possibly give a lower level reading? In any event, is 0.3 of a litre much of an "overfill" anyway, such that damage could result? Peter Burt

Thanks for these tips. The glass is in fact intact but rattles around something wicked - I guess the sticky pads are unstuck, or it's the thin glass syndrome. Cheers again. Peter Burt

I've just changed the oil in my 1.4 SS and filled to the dipstick notch (engine hot and running as per manual) but it's taken about 4.3 litres rather than the 4.0 litres stated capacity. Does this meant the dipstick notch is wrong and I've therefore over-filled? Or is the stated capacity an approximation? Help! Peter Burt

Does anyone know how to replace the door mirror glass without breaking the plastic surround? I assume there's a knack, so don't want to risk brute force! Cheers Peter Burt

Tom Having recently done this job too, I can confirm that there is a black rubber O-ring on the thermostat housing outlet, over which the J-hose goes. Some people reckon this is superfluous because the plastic housing itself is a very tight fit for the hose, so you'll probably be alright if it was that one. If it does leak, a extra turn on the jubilee clip should sort it! Incidentally, my expansion tank cap has a flat black rubber washer, not an O-ring as such. Peter Burt

Will have to let you know. Won't be on the road again until next weekend at least. 4th gear noise does seem to be a common theme with the 6-spd. Is yours on the over-run too and goes away when you're back on the throttle (even lightly)? Peter Burt

Ferrari?? I think MTL could be classed as a GL4 multigrade. Whatever, I'll let you know if it works for me (well, the gearbox anyway!) Peter Burt

Colin, Interesting point about the capacities. Seems they've got it wrong in the manual. I've no idea what gear oil was in there - just a creamy red stuff! OAP, You might want to check your clutch adjustment for the change stiffness. I improved mine considerably by adjusting it up a bit. Before I did that it was sometimes very difficult indeed to get it out of gear and into neutral, so I think that must have been down to clutch drag. Peter Burt

My build manual also says 2l but the owners manual says 1.9l, so who knows what is right. Still, the acid test is what goes in before it pours out of the filler, so the quoted capacities are academic I suppose! What age/mileage is your car? Does the change get stiffer when everything's up to temperature or is it consistent? Peter Burt

RJ Thanks for this. Gives me comfort that no damage has been done if it's only potentially been a little short. I've read various posts about noise and ease of gear selection with the 6-speed box and there does seem to be wide variation (although this in itself could be down to individual's different perception, I suppose). There did however seem to be consensus on the benefits of MTL, so hopefully I will notice some improvement when it's all back together again. Shame that won't be today, as it's a perfect one for a blat! Peter Burt

OAP This would seem to coincide with RJ post on my oil change topic - ie about 1.5 litres. I've got mine on 4 axle stands and level, so it'll be interesting to see how much goes in. Looks like the betting would be 1.5l . Seems to make sense that the ball & socket (anybody know what the proper technical term is?) should be lubricated but I'll think I'll wait and see what others might say. Are you familiar with the green grease? It looks like Swarfega but is definitely grease! Peter Burt

OAP, Yes, when hot particularly. Just wanted to see what was going on in there in conjunction with changing the gear oil - see my subsequent post. Thought I'd better ask what the form is before putting it all back together (although I suspect the new gear oil - with the right amount! - may solve all the issues). The only noticeable lubrication to the base of the gear stick is the aforementioned green grease on the fork. The ball & socket doesn't look as if it has ever had any grease on it. Peter Burt

I've just drained my 6-speed box (actually left it overnight) and measured the old gear oil at about 1.3 litres. It doesn't seem possible that 0.6 litres would have stayed in the 'box, so does this indicate that it has been running with that much short, or are the quoted capacities way out? Would this explain a bit of noise and "chatter", particularly in 4th on the over-run ?(which is why I had decided to change the lube, to MTL, in the first place). Not had the car long, so still learning - hopefully not the hard way!! Peter Burt

Thanks for that. I thought maybe it got pretty hot in there so that LM would just turn to "oil". Anyway, as a supplementary question, does anyone know if the black plastic ball & socket/gimbal arrangement at the base of the lever be lubricated? On mine it appears dry but still seems to move freely and smoothly. Peter Burt

Does anybody know if there's anything special about the grease used to lubricate the fork at the base of the gear stick? I removed the gear stick from my 6-speed (1996) today and found green grease had been used. Is it a high melting point grease? Or can I slap some Castrol LM in there? Peter Burt

If you've got a certain type of Clayton Heater (I believe supplied for a short time only in 1996/97) it has a 13mm connection, with the usual 16mm connection at the valve end. This means either getting hold of the OE part from Clayton or using a reducer connection and different sized pipes/elbows. I've actually just done this job myself and, having previously obtained a variety of silicon and rubber pipes and reducers, I ended up getting the OE pipes from Clayton in the end. This was because I found there is not really enough space between the heater, bulkhead, and valve to do it sensibly with "join-ups". FYI Clayton part no. is CX4609. You need two of these and cut one down for the shorter elbow (they've stopped making the shorter one). Do a search and there's a lot more on this. Having said all this, I hope you have the standard heater, as it seems this is a lot easier all round and gives you more options (eg for using silicon). Peter Burt

Thanks for these useful leads, guys. I'll follow them up next week. Cheers. Peter Burt

I just discovered that Wonder Wheels cleaner really does destroy chrome plate!! Does anybody have a set (or even just a few spares) of chromed wheel nuts (closed-end type). The car's a '96 Roadsport 1.4SS, with 14" Minilite-type alloys, if that makes any difference. CC don't stock them any longer, so here's hoping.......... Peter Burt

Thanks Alan. I'll have to re-bleed with it off now! Peter Burt

May be a numpty question but does it matter if the handbrake is on or off whilst bleeding the brakes? Peter Burt

Did mine last weekend. Peeled off as much as possible (didn't find the need to use a knife) then cleaned off the residue backing/glue with Halfords "Surface Cleaner" (sold alongside paints, primers etc). Worked a treat and no danger/damage to paintwork. Peter Burt

James I was neither of these but I note you're Sevenoaks based, like me. I'll look out for your plate when I'm out and about. Mine's BRG/Yellow-nose K700 KAT. See you around. Cheers Peter Burt

Nick, I've tried sending you another blatmail. Let me know if you get this one. Cheers Peter Burt

Cheers for this Nick. I've sent you a Blatmail (I think! First I've done, so not sure if it's worked) Peter Burt

A bit after the event I know, but I wondered if you still have the other spare rear 7 badge on your shelf? Peter Burt