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Northern Banana

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Everything posted by Northern Banana

  1. Dave & Co, No pics but basic explanation of oil sys plumbing. Hose from bottom of DS tank in gearbox bellhousing connected to pick up pipe connector at front of sump pan. My understanding then is across to the filter, past the pressure sender and into the engine internals, before dropping down into the sump. Hose from rear of sump pan, to push on connector at rear of DS scavenge pump. Hose then from top of DS scavenge pump back to connector of DS conning tower to complete the system. I have replaced the pressure sender - so unlikely that 2 have failed. Where is Oily when you need him? Northern Banana.co.uk
  2. Answers to the various questions: TF/JL: Still running in only 320 miles completed, on mineral oil - not exceeded 4,000 rpm yet. PC: connected a new catch tank (Mocal) but hoses and vents kept the same. The pressure falls away very quickly to 15-20psi within rev range of 1,5000 - 4,000 then I switch the engine off quick. MB - Does the engine oil pump create a 'pull action on the oil from the DS res, or does the system rely on gravity/weight of fluid to push oil to the ppick up connector. I do feel that supply to the pick up is the issue given that a 0.5 ltr top up address the oil pressure (for a while). Would it be OK to trial a plug in the top of the catch tank hose with a small hole (to allow air to vent). Northern Banana.co.uk
  3. JH - Was filled with around 5.5-6 litres, but with top ups and catch tank emptying unsure what volume will be know. Just from a visual cue, the level appears lower than prior to the rebuild and I have now got this issue that over time the system doesn't appear to be retaining enough to maintain oil pressure. Northern Banana.co.uk
  4. Peter, After a while (with the oil at the level described) the oil pressure falls away. When topped up slightly it is fine again - so I am guessing that over time too much oil is blown into the catch tank , leaving insufficent in the system to push oil from the res to the oil pick up connector at the front edge of the sump. Northern Banana.co.uk
  5. My car has the std Caterham dry sump system fitted, post engine rebuild I have a problem with the DS system blowing too much oil into the catch tank. When the system finally finds its level and I look down the neck of the conning tower the oil is approx 2-2.5 inchs below the base of the tower. This is too low, proved after 50 miles when more oil is required. Current thoughts: Too much oil is being pushed in the DS res and can only escape to catch tank (when running with right oil level getting good pressure 65 psi at idle - 72 psi when driven). Any thoughts as to why this may occur. Does the DS system need a baffle to prevent too much oil being sent to the catch tank. Has anyone else needed to fit one? If I tried this route any suggestions as to what baffled design may consist of. Gold star if anyone has the correct answer - as I am supposed to be at the club trackday a week on Weds at Cadwell. Northern Banana.co.uk Edited by - paul aram on 29 Apr 2005 22:18:37
  6. Hi Flydeflyer t'was I just heading back from a very early morning running in session. 320 miles done 180 to go....4000 rpm is very dull. You were spot on...It was a superb morning. Also saw an orange roadsport / superlight 2 up between Kirby Longsdale and Sedburgh. Northern Banana.co.uk
  7. Oily (YHM), Just back from first blat over revving is still nigglying me on the up shift...should I try a 2.5 or 2mm plug and sod the lumpy idle? It sounds more like a racer anyway! I haven't upped the fuel pressure yet will this have any effect? Thanks, Paul. Northern Banana.co.uk
  8. Update: Turned down a bolt and drilled a 3mm hole in as DVA suggested. The over revving is much better, idle is much worse - guess I'd better save up for an emerald!!!! It sounds wonderful - even thought it hasn't been over 3,500rpm ❗ Northern Banana.co.uk
  9. dave dropped you a mail..not had chance to get in the garage, will probably have to be at the weekend.
  10. Does anyone know if it is possible to fit an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to the Rover swan neck throttle bodies? The existing fuel pressure regulator appears to be built onto therail supplying the injector, is there an alternative set up? Thanks Northern Banana.co.uk
  11. Hi Mike, Can't absorb the full cost of the courier...would the NTL corier service be an option?
  12. Oily, Just to check, have I got the workings of the AICV correct. Air is drawn into the idle air rail via the mini air filter located below the TB manifold of 2 & 3 cylinder. Air is controlled via the 'plunger valve' on top of the TB manifold. Taking in what you have suggested, I would need to knock up either a plug (or would a plate suffice) to reduce the opening on the air filter side of the mechanism. The current opening is about 7-8mm wide, this I would need to drop down to 3mm. Northern Banana.co.uk
  13. Oily, What bit of the idle air value do I need to restrict? i.e the underside where the mini air filter is mounted. If it is simply a plate which sits under the filter housing I could knock one up, would you be able to advise re diameter of the opening needed to address the issue. Have mailed you offline re the other subject we discussed yesterday. Cheers. PS Petrol Head - on TB's so no jubilee clip - cheers for the reply though! Northern Banana.co.uk
  14. Can anyone allay my worst fears...this would not be related to a failing/failed head gasket ☹️ Chris - DVA said that the engine should run ok on the VHPD MEMS - I haven't up'd the fuel pressure yet, but given I haven't rev'd the engine above 3,500 rpm I can't see the fueling level being an issue when at idle/low revs. Did you have to switch to an Emerald to get it to work.? Northern Banana.co.uk
  15. Yes the springs are fine Myles. I am going to have a further play with the 'alignment screws' which adjusted the pair of butterflies moving in sync. Northern Banana.co.uk
  16. Just had my VHPD 1.8 k rebuilt by DVA. The car runs with the original swan neck throttle bodies, MEMS ECU and idle air valve. Dropped the liquids in yesterday and fired her up. No real problems other than when I blip the throttle the revs flare up and take 2-3 secs to return to idle. Previously they instantly fell away. DVA suggested an air leak, I've checked all the seal on the throttle bodies, reset the ecu and checked, cleaned the idle air valve and mini air filter. Any other thoughts or suggestions? Northern Banana.co.uk Edited by - paul aram on 10 Apr 2005 17:35:35
  17. Back to school 😬 The larger connector was the correct one (smaller one must be an optional earth), all working beautiifully now!! Northern Banana.co.uk
  18. Thanks gents, Will be trying your ideas in the morning!! Will let you know how I get on.
  19. Friend managed to source me a new solenoid however it has an addition wiring point. Any anyone advise from the pic here which wiring blade I should use. I know where the nut and bolt connectors need to be wired, but not the blade connectors. On the old solenoid the only connector was at the top (as you look at the photo), but from the pic you will see that this connector is rather large. Just wanted to check other opinions. Thanks. Northern Banana.co.uk
  20. Edited by - Paul Aram on 7 Apr 2005 11:10:49
  21. Look these are cheap compared to a set sold earlier in the year ❗ ❗ http://213-04.com/T.asp?id=74870 Northern Banana.co.uk
  22. Just taken off a set of rims so no cluttering up the garage 2 x 245/45-13 89V 2 x 195/50 -13 78V Sprint compound ( marked 6894 on sidewall) they were new in 2003 and have approx 3mm wear to go before the wear indicators. Based in Lancs would need buyer to collect. First offer over £200 secures. Thanks. Northern Banana.co.uk Edited by - paul aram on 10 Apr 2005 10:57:50
  23. Thanks V7 but I'm going to need a new solonoid, trying to dismantle the plastic cap to replace the sheared bolt I strained some wires. Hopefully cc midlands will have one in stock. Northern Banana.co.uk
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