Northern Banana

Hi Wheel is 6.5" x 15. CR500 tyre fitted is 195 R45 photo here Thanks

One only fitted with Avon CR500 tyre Bit of blistering on inside so maybe not for a polisher £60 Located in SW Scotland, will post if you arrange courier. Parcel Monkey quoting around £10 for next day. Edited by - paul aram on 16 Dec 2013 16:41:18

Andy, I sent a BM last week re the Carcoon - did you receive it? If its still available please can you let me know what your would like for it. Thanks

Provisionally sold to StuB

Set of 4 fitted with Avon CR500 tyres which have a bit of life left in them. £300 collected from SW Scotland or can bring to LLandow Trackday on 6th & 7th Sept.

Thanks to Dave @DT all sorted now

Set of 16 if possible, with or without washers. I appears that the inner sleave dimension vary but the ones I have are 21mm back of hex to tip of beval and 15mm wide. Thanks

got my last one here

Thank you Jonathan for directing me to that

I've just replaced the starter motor on the car and noticed that directly underneath the starter motor assembly, the bellhousing (caterham dry sump version) has a opening in which you can see the flywheel. Is this normal? Surprised to see access to it here as it must pull in all sorts of grime and potentially grit/gravel. Anyone else with a similar spec know if there car is the same? Thanks

Thanks Stu - did all chassis by that time have the fitting bosses included?

Hi, I've got a 2004 imperial chassis s3 car. Is there a cage available for that year which allows screen doors/halfdoors to be easily fitted? Thanks,

Hi Tom - Nothing in the inbox or junk folder - must be BM gremlins I've BM'd you but if nothing email is pauljaram[at]hotmail[dot]com Thanks

String and Cans - That is cutting edge for Haworth 😳

My upgrade Iphone 5 has arrived so Iphone 4 must go. currently on Orange network Black 16GB 2yrs old very good condition has always lived in one of those leather sock things Boxed with charger, headphones and little sim tool. £210 including special delivery p&P

Wet afternoon here (well most are but particularly heavy today). So I tackled the FIA master switch grouping all the feeds onto one terminal. Turned over a few more times but still too slow/weak to let the engine catch. So I grab a freshly charged leisure battery which we use for the horses electric fences. Put across the jump leads and the car starts (I had tried this before but maybe not enough juice in the leisure battery) So I am I to deduce from this that the Banner is a seasonal battery not upto to winter starting? Please help explaining my battery options? The banner is rated at 30amh I had a gel type Power Vamp on the last car but that is only rated at 18amh Is it the starting current that is more relevant?

Paul No, if isolator switch is wired correctly it should disconnect everything, My car can sit for weeks, even months with the FIA switch removed and battery is fine Tim Hi Tim, Immobiliser is wired to stay on when master switch is off. Its an after market Toad proximity type. looking at the wiring it appears that the feed is directly from the + terminal of the battery.

Paul Ian Jonathan - Thanks yes his has a master switch (sorry that was serious Sunday afternoon numptyness). Will try that - any thoughts on the voltage you should see at the starter? Edited by - Paul Aram on 6 Jan 2013 16:14:50

Back in the garage today to try and get the car running...but yet again I am a failure at nursing the pride and joy!! I need a bit of help please explaining the wiring setup. The big thick red wire coming off the positive side of the battery. On my car it goes through into the bulkhead under the dash. Sorry for what is probably a numpty question but I assume it doesn't just go straight back to the starter solenoid but is split somewhere into a starter relay? I'm trying to prove this cable - as when I have a meter on the starter terminal and try to start the car I only get 7.5v . Battery is new, fully charged conditioned and reads 12.7v. 7.5v at the starter seems low to me - so I'm thinking there is an issue with the supply from battery to starter. Is there a relay under the dash somewhere? Solenoid engages ok and car does a couple of weak cranks then nothing. Any ideas Edit just to check could I run a live feed directly from the battery + to the solenoid terminal? Edited by - Paul Aram on 6 Jan 2013 14:09:01

I've had problems getting the car to start (k series). All I get is a couple of half hearted cranks and then nothing - showing symptom of a flat battery. So far I've - 1. Changed to new battery which is ok and also tried in conjunction with boost starter. 2. Checked earths and run an additional engine earth 3. I've run a live feed directly to the starter and it spins up ok - but I appreciate that this doesn't account for cranking load. I guess I should now get a meter on the starter terminal to check that it is getting the correct voltage. Given the eye watering price of a new starter, before I order one, is there a way to check it to confirm it is knackered?

I had this custom made by Promatic in 2007. The carousel holds standard sized clays and is mounted on an off road trailer suitable to be towed behind quad or small 4x4. Trap throws fully random clays with continuous direction changes in pitch and throw. It can also be set to just move either up and down or left and right, or even be used in a fixed position. It comes with 3 release options - push button, foot control or radio control (100mtr range). Runs from a leisure battery (not included). Pics http://www.gorsebank.com/gorsebank_equestrian/Cat7/imag015.jpg & http://www.gorsebank.com/gorsebank_equestrian/Cat7/imag016.jpg I will try and get some pics video of it in use this weekend. Price £1,999 (Location SW Scotland - for a small cost can deliver or meet up NW area)

Thanks for all the replies. Car has been fine until this attempt, started every time without the need for any throttle - and it has a isolator switch which I assume leaves some current to the ecu & immobiliser The conditioner is a Banner Accugard 1800 - it indicates a full battery with a green LED and the Stack shows 13.1v, but the battery appears to have lost its mojo (technical term). The r500 k does run with a high compression ratio. I've seen it before on a previous 7, where a battery shows ok volts but not enough umph (another technical term) to crank but that wasn't left on a conditioner. Just wondered if an alternative brand/type of battery is now suggested?

That time of year again and popped down to the garage to turnover the 7 (2 weeks since last start) and not enough juice in battery. Its a Banner battery and has been plugged into the conditioner, but I suspect the self arming immobiliser is too much. What are the options: i) new battery should I just replace with another Banner - heard that gel types get on even less with immobilisers. ii) to keep the new battery healthy with the immobiliser on. Is it just a matter of running the car every few days to top it up? Thanks

Thanks Phil - I'll BM you back with email for pics.

To use as spare trackday wheels - so don't need to be cosmetically perfect. 2 x 6.5" 2 x 8" I'm located in SW Scotland but can collect down to Birmingham Thanks,