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Andy Best

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Everything posted by Andy Best

  1. Spotted the same fault on mine two months ago, drill out the old rivits you may notice that the reason some have failed is because of corrosion. I got some silicon in a tube and sealed the floor to the frame and covered each rivit in silicon before fixing back in hopfully this will last until the acr goes back to Arch for the chassis to be shot blasted and re-coated, about another 4-5 years I reckon. Andy
  2. Just spent the morning takingthe engine out for this very fault, (thanks Andy and Stu for the help), the CRB was in several bits the symtoms were: 1) there was an intermittenet noise when the clutch was depressed. 2) the noise went 3) a new grauncy noise started when cold and changing gear. 4) the cluche pedal started to feel lumpy and gears were difficult to engage. point 1 lasted about 9 months 2, 3 and 4 happened over the course of two weeks. All I need know are all the important bits to change whilst the engine is out VHPD head, RBTB's dry sump kit, an emerald oh and some silicon hoses. 😬 Andy
  3. Thanks for your replies, I think I might play with the cable set up first. Peter is there an optimum for the pedal to cable angle that I can start the adjustments from or is just what feels right for me? Andy
  4. I am considering improving the clutch feel and action on my 97 K series and looking at the hydraulic option, somebody must have done this so what are the results/pitfalls? Can I buy a kit from someone or would it be a complete DIY job? If it’s a DIY job who are the best suppliers? Am I just better off replacing the cable clutch parts with something better?
  5. Just had the same problem then eventually the speedo stops working Got to echo Hoopy's comments re the speedo bits and if your car is pre 98 Caterham can no longer supply just the bit that failed you have to buy the new style right angled drive and a new speedo cable as the design changed *mad* just £55 plus P&P and no perfomance improvement Not too bothered about the speedo but as I'm an a limited mileage Ins policy I thought the insures might raise a few eyebrows if every MOT had the same milage on it ❗ Andy
  6. Mines a James Whiting Race Tech no problems with wobble but I do take Julians point I have a small chain and lock to lock the wheel in the boot (chain round the Roll Bar) when I leave the car rather than carry it around with me. One guy unfortunatly had his wheel nicked at LeMans this year ❗, its a long way back with a pair of mole grips (actually I thinl red line flew a wheel out to him). Andy
  7. Ordered one from caterham today so no longer req'd Andy
  8. Yes Bob's right you need a new top column and boss, they're easy to fix just undo the joining clamp engine side of the bulk head remove old column insert new. You may need to adjust the rack and uj at the bottom end to get the Steering wheel straight though. Parts about £150 from Caterham, James Whiting or Demon Tweeks.
  9. Thanks Deeps I know of Kenricks but was looking for other alternatives if anyone has any ideas.
  10. Can anybody recomend a good garage/individual in the NorthWest (Chester area is best) who understands the standard Caterham SLR engine and is able to service and tune to get the best performance. Also if there are people I should avoid at all cost. Cheers Andy
  11. Just found out the reason my speedo is not working ☹️, the right angled drive has failed. Has anybody got one in the parts bin they would be willing to sell/provide donation to NTL. The cars a 97 1.6 K with five speed box. If not I will ring Caterham Monday Andy (andrew@bestbytes.co.uk) Edited by - andy best on 31 Aug 2002 15:50:36
  12. The Speedo on my car has packed up. 1997 vintage mechanical caterham with a five speed box. The speedo first started reading 50% high then dropped to max 20MPH, then nothing. The actual speedo seems fine tested by spinning the cable in my fingers, the drive seems fine put the inner cable in and it rotates as you drive. Reassemble the whole lot and nothing the cable does look a bit damaged at the speedo end but only very superfically, has anyone got any more ideas advice please? Andy
  13. I've sent an email on behalf John Hughes Andy
  14. Mole, I think everything is OK. The Hazard, Brake Warning and Screen switchs don't light up with the side lights they only light up when in use - the Brake light only lights when ignition switch is set to running possition. My cars a little older than yours and the Fog lights up but has a second window on the top part of the switch and only visible when its on that may have changed. Hope this helps. Try the connections on hazard stich or switch it on and off that can stop the indicators from working. The multi plug is probably the diagnostic connector and is left unconnected. Andy Edited by - andy best on 24 Jul 2002 23:36:25
  15. Thanks Wallbanger as I was going to use them for the road intially, I will give them a miss, onto you Nick. Andy
  16. I've a '97 K and the center of the hole is 35mm down from the top of the sill. If you imagine a vertical line down from where the dash meets the sill that is the center on the horizontal axis. This of course does not mean that yours would be in the same place, I would be tempted to remove the rivits/screws in this area and check before drilling, I would imagine your can see the fixing point in the chassis quite easily as it is very near the top of the panel. Andy
  17. Could you let me know the tread depth that's left please, I'm very interested. Andy
  18. You seem to have a similar problem I had on my 1.6k, found something in the archives here I seem to recall. All I had to do to rectify the problem was remove all the electrical sensor plugs from the inlet side of the engine clean all the metal connection parts with wet&dry and put back together. I've not had any problems since, it might be the same and it won't cost to find out. See you at Le Mans Andy
  19. Masha, I am intereseted in buying a kit but have not been able to find one anywhere could you let me know where I can get one please. Andy
  20. Andy Best

    who

    TSK fred. There's been quite a few threads recently - The Phone number's here. A search on 'TSK' will reveal peoples thoughts.
  21. I prefer the SPA ones, go for convex not only do you see more but the mirror seems a better quality. I looked at carbon could not see the advantage and IMHO plastic ones are a better finish. If you have a windscreen you can mount them on the support or the doors. (see other threads about the pros and cons of this) If you have areo screens I am sure they still fit. Andy
  22. Hi, What is the best set of plugs I can give my 1997 1.6k (std) Caterham? Andy
  23. Mav could you mail me a copy too please. Andy
  24. Has any K user bought a baffle from Caterham recently? I was wondering if they are now cut to shape. Andy
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