nickhi

I currently have a Roadsport 125 with a Motolita 11" Steering wheel. I've been offered a MOMO Steering wheel and want to give it a try. I'm guessing I will need to change the Boss. However, there seems to be a large range of Boss kits, does anyone know what the specification is for attaching to the Caterham Steering top shaft or is there a Caterham part Number. I've seen and adapter to convert between Momo and Motilita wheels but would rather just fit a new Boss.

I fitted Nylon during my build last year. Went through IVA with no problems. Not sure if it's something that gets checked or effects the IVA though. I did find the job a bit fiddly and awkward and managed to strip/break a few of the Nylon bolts so possibly make sure you have some spare.

Built mine last year and like Grubbster didn't cross the cables behind pulley. So far it's passed PBC, IVA and Service no one has mentioned it so far. Handbrake works fine so am now curious as to why the cables should cross and what is the benefit?

Can I take first dibs on the pair of wind deflectors please. Will send mail. Nick

Reported the leak to CC as I was also having trouble with gear shift into 2nd. I dropped the car in and couple of days later I now have a new gearbox and smooth gear shift and a nice clean garage floor. Great service form CC, really pleased with the result.

Yes, Green with Yellow Stripe. I was just on my way back to Yeovil, enjoying the weather while it lasts ! Nick

Just approaching Podimore roundabout towards A303. Was going in opposite direction. Nice afternoon for a quick blat.

There is a wiring diagram in the back of the latest build manual, downloadable from the CC website. Can BM you a copy if needed. Best of Luck.

I am still not completely sure but am pretty certain it's from the gear selector rod. I'm guessing that while driving oil is accumulating in the pocket of the bell housing then when parked up it's draining out and finding its way between the bell housing and gearbox.

Many thanks for all the advice. Will lift the car up in the morning and have a long inspection and try and identify exactly where it may be coming from. Will clean all round then go for short run then have another look round and hopefully identify where it's leaking out. Simon, will definitely double check the top plate, many thanks.

Hi simonpa, Thanks for the reply, yes I built it myself. I had a good feel around the sides and couldn't feel any oil but I'll lift the car and have a nother good look round. I sort of concluded it was from the bell housing mating as after wiping off all the excess after a drive and then feeling around again a few hours later there was definately oil at the bottom of the bell housing to gearbox mating again. I'm going to take the tunnel top cover off, I may be able to have a good look around from the top of the gearbox.

I believe I have developed a bit of a Leak from the Gearbox. It's Sigma Roadsport 125 self build. I had noticed a few drops before the 1000 mile service but not really looked too deeply as it was going for the 1000 mile check and guessed they would look into it. A bit of TADTS and I sort of assumed I'd live with it and also seem to recall reading on here that some suffer with this kind of issue without problem. However after getting a litlle annoyed at the mess on the garage floor I thought I'd see how much was leaking. After a 20 mile drive placed a small container underneath and left for 24 hours. The amount is shown here . Having seen how much there was I thought I'd top up the gearbox the other night, it took just about 200ml. Assuming the level was correct at the 1000 mile service (I've assumed so as it's part of the service) I therefore basically seem to have lost 200ml in 400 miles. From memory the gearbox takes 1.2L. I'm probably wrong but this seems to be a little more than a small 'weep' to me. Other problem is I'm not 100% sure where it's coming from. I was under the impression it was from between gearbox and bell housing but I'm not sure how this much oil can get out, pretty sure it's not from the rear as the propshaft, tunnel area and rear of the gearbox seem free of any evidence. It naturally drops from the lowest point as here but there seems to be residue all under the gearbox, I'm assuming this is just how it's getting dispersed whilst driving along. I've got a feeling this is going to be engine out job (and hence expensive) any thoughts or advice?

Small amount of superglue worked best for me. I wasn't sure how 'keen' the IVA inspection would be so thought it best to ensure that the grommets wouldn't fall or get pulled out.

Tom, mine went through IVA a couple of months ago and I basically wrapped any visible wires with black electricians tape, as close to where they enter and exit the lights. Same for the rear light cables as there wasn't enough heat shrink on the cables before they entered the bodywork from the light block. As for the grommet on the cycle wings and headlight bracket I cut them in half and glued into place. Passed IVA no problems.

Sorry for being off topic, but interested to know about Alan's leaking gearbox. Mine's a Sigma engine with 5 speed gearbox and just over 1000 miles now. I seem to have had a leak from somewhere around gearbox since collection. Don't know if it's a case of TADTS or a real problem.

Garth, can I ask what your Sigma oil pressure was like before the upgrade. I have a new Sigma 125, done 400 miles so far. Oil pressure, when cold stays around 4bar. When warmed up at idle it seems to drop to below 2bar, almost just above the Red. Whilst driving though the pressure returns to around 4 bar again. Been told this is normal for a Sigma but seems strange to me.

I'm just about coming to the end of my s3 build but it seems as though I could be looking at about 4-5 weeks till CC can do the PBC then IVA. I figured as it'll have to go to CC for the PBC anyway I'd let them take it for the IVA. It seems an expensive route but am guessing that it may well end up less painful and the chances of a pass are a lot higher. It just seems a long wait with a finished car sat in the garage and the sun shining. Good luck with Exeter sparky, that would probably be my nearest test centre so I'd be interested in how you get on, (nice to have an option if the wait for CC gets too long!).

Thanks Jonathan, yes it'll probably do for use with a half hood. I had thought about getting one instead of musing the full CC supplied hood. The Boot cover does overlap the rear wings a bit but doesn't look too bad, probably better than holes left behind after removing the incorrectly placed poppers 😳. I haven't fitted the doors yet as the manual suggests these need to be lined up with the roof, would it be the same approach if using only a half hood ?

I just fitted my boot cover this weekend. I left the metal strip in (I have 4 point harness) and drilled through it for the harness bolts. I think it makes a neat job and seems to give the front of the boot cover a nice solid looking edge. I also just riveted the additional tonneau fixings to the metal strip rather than drilling and screwing. As a complete numpty I think it doesn't look too bad. Only problem I have now is to sort out the poppers on the Boot cover because stupidly I forgot to fix the hoodsticks in first. With the hoodsticks now fitted the poppers are all about 20mm too short. Going to be an expensive mistake I feel D'oh !!!!!!

bbkRob, I have almost completed my build and have run the engine for the first time. Not sure if my cooling system is right though. I ran till about 60 deg on the gauge and could see coolant flowing into the expansion bottle so guess pump is working however Radiator is stone cold (both Top and Bottom hoses), I was kind of assuming it would feel warm. Was just wondering what you found when running for the first time. I have 5L of coolant in and have seen no leaks.

I did mine couple of weeks ago and checked with CC as I was confused by the manual (not for the first time!). Basically I have the same instructions as BigCol. The tricky part I found is trying to figure out how to route the cables to the Battery, there doesn't really seem to be any real guidance on how the wiring looms should be routed, I've ended up trying to cable tie them where I can but am a bit apprehensive because I'm guessing it's something that will be checked as part of the IVA test.

Thanks, shall torque it all up when on the ground..

Having nearly finished the rear of the car on my build I was just checking round and although my A Frame and De dion tube measure centrally (within +/- 1mm) I have 5 spacer washers on one side and 3 on the other. Does this sound about right. I also seem to recall reading somewhere that the A Frame welds can crack when tightening up the fixings. Is there a procedure, I had planned to take the car off the axle stands and then torque up the A Frame when on the ground. Cheers Nick

Thanks for advice, bottle of Red at the ready.. Have got the UJ sorted. Had spoke to CC and as I had wrecked the bolt thread they kindly replaced it and sent a new UJ. This fitted very simply with no problems, so guess I just had a badly aligned one. Regarding the lower white bearing it was suggested to glue it in place first then it should hold while I insert the upper column. Will be trying this tomorrow. Will also use the approach of guiding the upper column with finger then push lower column upwards into it.

Having put the Diff in about two weeks ago on my build, I must have been lucky. I removed the board in the boot above the diff and lifted it with the Engine Hoist, this held it in place and was easy to jiggle into place. Got the two bottom bolts in first and centered the diff, then having aligned the top hole by eye as best as possible, used lots of copper slip and top bolt went straight through with couple of blows from the mallet (which happens to be the most valuable bit of the toolkit). Come to think of it, it seems so far almost every bit of the build has in some way involved a bit of persuasion from the mallet !!