nickhi

Thanks, I've tried pushing the white bearing back in but no way I can seem to get it anywhere near looking correct. Having looked at it again I don't think the problem is with the UJ it seems to be that the machined 'notch' in the short splined shaft from the Steering Rack is too big. Consequently as you insert the Bolt it is forced outwards and won't align with the other hole in the UJ. I've already damaged the bolt thread trying to force it so think this will be one for CC during the PBC. Might get them to sort out the white bearings also. Funny how what look like the simple jobs turn into a slog. Comparatively installing the Diff was a piece of cake!!

Have reached the point in the build when I can get to install the Steering, I thought this would be a nice job to finish the day, and not have to get the mallet out again!, however.... The bottom UJ just won't fit on the steering rack. It seems the splined shaft from the Steering Rack is just too big for the bolt to fit past (I have aligned it to the machine part correctly). Is there a solution or shall I leave it to the PBC. Also whilst inserting the Upper column over the lower column (I was very careful and used no force) a small white plastic tube came out over the lower column. Any idea what this is and what I need to do with it? Finally how do you rotate/position the upper rubber bush in the dash tube. I've inserted it but there doesn't seem to be any way of knowing if its located correctly (it's a really tight fit). Thanks Nick

TBKBABABTIM, I'm at a very similar stage to you in my build and have just attached the bell housing / gearbox to engine (Sigma). I too put sealant around on the paper gasket, not sure if was needed but remember reading somewhere to put sealant round bell housing to engine, the build manual didn't seem clear, so I did it anyhow. It all went well but so far just can't seem to get at the inside bolt which attaches the starter motor to bell housing. If you solve how to tighten it please let me know (I was just going to leave it for post build check otherwise). Hope your enjoying the build, this is my first attempt at anything like this and feels like doing a massive puzzle, it's amazing how one simple sentence in the manual transcribes to hours of fun.

Stationary M25 Traveller - I'm based in Somerset. Again thanks for the advice, Blatchat is a real gem of information and reading the threads you quickly realise that there is a huge amount of knowledge and experience out there.

Great, many thanks for the info and advice. It's my first build and with no point of reference it's tricky to know whats right or wrong and/or the best way to do things.

I'm a Couple of weeks into my build and I needed a LHS upright from CC which I now have. However, it seems far more problematic to fit than the RHS upright was (which I found very straightforward) and seems different (with a sample of two it's difficult to know if either if any is wrong). Firstly I couldn't get the top wishbone ball joint done up. It was ok using the plain nut but when using the nyloc nut the bolt just seemed to rotate with it. I found there was a hex socket in the bottom of the bolt so tightened this and was then able to do the nyloc up. Should I loosen the hex socket again or is it ok to leave as is. Secondly I just don't seem to be able to get the nyloc nut on the Track Rod End tightened. Again the bolt just seems to rotate with the nut, but there doesn't appear to be a hex socket to apply the same trick. I now can't seem to loosen it either for the same reason. How do I solve? Finally (sorry for all the numpty questions) the hub rotates a lot more freely than the RHS (which rotates but I'm not able to spin it and let it run freely like the LHS). Also the hub seems to have a small amount of lateral movement about 1-2 mm (basically I can move it in and out by hand a little). The RHS doesn't exhibit this. Is this normal? Thanks nickhi

Thanks for the tip re mouse wire Pugwash. I think I've discovered my Headlamp Brackets are the Lower type and should be fitted under the bodywork at the mounting. I'll try to keep the wishbones as horizontal as possible and check again when finished. Thanks for all the advice. Just hoping next few stages go smoother.

Ah!!! The build manual says to Torque the wishbones after fitting them and before the Spring Dampers are fitted as access is blocked by other components (I guess the Spring Damper unit).... Nickhi

Day one of build not off to a flying start.... Difficulty with the Upper (and Lower) wishbones. How do you keep them horizontal to Torque them correctly. Once torqued LHS seems to be drooping down and RHS skyward !! How important at this stage is it to have them horizontal and how accurate?? Second question does the Headlamp bracket sit inside the bodywork or outside? I have situated it outside but doesn't seem to look right. Looking at other build diaries there seems to be different types of bracket. Mine was marked Headlamp Bracket EU4. Will try and get up with technology and post some pictures if needed.

Looking forward to my first seven and hopefully starting the build in March. Have done some reading around and Dinitrol 3125 seems a good option, apart from the grot traps is it wise coating inside the engine bay and underside etc? Any idea how many cans would be needed, I've seen on the usual market websites bundles of 4 cans or more.