Dobuy
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Posts posted by Dobuy
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Ok managed to strip it all down this afternoon updated pictures here
Looks like it is not too bad
I think I may be able to get the block welded, the problem is that it is hard to find someone you can trust to do it right out here in Dubai.Not so sure about the sump, as it has a slight bend in it as well as a crack. I am really glad I found the worn dome head allen bolt in the sump, as I heard a noise just before shutting it down and had visions of damaged cranks etc. It is tempting to try and repair the sump, as I am sure a new pan will not be cheap.
One plus side is I got to have a good look at all the internals and after several (very hot) track days there is negligible wear to the rest of the engine
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Here are some pics of the damage here and here
Looks like a new block to me, don't think it can be welded. Hope the smack did not damage the crank. I will take the sump off tomorrow and have a look to see how bad it is.
Mike, I had heard 2.3's were harder to get than a 2.0, might have to spring for a short engine, then I will have a spare crank
Edited by - Dobuy on 20 Jan 2007 19:20:39
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Caused by the idiot driver....
Managed to crack my block today on the track, ran over some very bumpy rumble strips, smacked the Raceline Dry Sump and cracked the block, just at the sump join face.
Didn't think I hit it that hard, so off to the garage to whip out the engine. Pictures to follow.
Anyone got a cheap 2.3 block ??????
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Andy, I had a look at the Reverie cam cover at the show and it was the same height as the original Ford item, the Raceline one is much lower than the Reverie one
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Oil & Filters. If you are feeling keen check your shims, that should do it. It's not made of cheese after all 😬 😬
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Tony, I would expect that at least one of the relays on the Emerald loom is for the Fuel Pump.
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Yeah its advisable to have some kind of relay system, I am using the one you can see in the picture which was supplied with the loom. The MFRU should work fine. I am no wiring wizard, but it is remarkably simple once you get stuck in.
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Well its kind of a bit here and a bit there. I have my Emerald hidden behind the dash and have a stack, so I might not be representative. See picture here
So, yes a lot of it can be connected into the grey plug, from memory I have the oil pressure, oil temp and water hooked into the grey plug. I then have various bits feeding in behind the dash.
Best bet is to just start fitting it, one wire at a time, then it all kinda comes together
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Yeah, one post in one section please, otherwise you might just spread our interest toooo thin 😬
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I have the Raceline short bellhousing, which required the notch cut in the firewall for clearance. Bearing in mind my car is a SV, my weights with me in the car (95kg) and 5 litres of fuel were:
297kg front to 341kg rear. Or 46.6% front to 53.4% rear.
It may have changed a little, as I have dry sumped it and the oil tank is over the front crossmember.
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This is from memory, but I believe it is from some version of a VW Golf. 87 degrees with a small hole drilled in it to let water circulate. Sorry can't be more precise.
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Keep the 6th speed, if you have one, why change. One thing I noticed on my car is what a big difference tyre size makes, even on the same rim size. I changed from 13" Hoosiers to Avon slicks and was finally able to use 5th convincingly on the Dubai Autodrome. And that was just a change in profile.
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Yep, I agree with Peter, it is almost certainly a fuelling problem, due to the size of the throttle bodies and injectors required for big horsepower, they are quite sensitive to the need for proper mapping, especially at low revs.
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Mick Attree has put a couple of 2.3's in the narrow chassis, including his own. He uses the standard cambox with a alloy plug in place of the Ford oil filler cap and has no problems with clearance. See picture here of a 2.3 in a standard R400 chassis.
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I agree with Steve about the mechanical sympathy bit, I have done 5000 km's of track time on my BGH box and apart from needing a Quaife alloy case it has been fine. This is on slicks and with about 260-270bhp
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Or build your own Engine from a kit of parts from Raceline or Cosworth, the Duratec is an engine that is remarkably easy to work on, no special tools required whatsoever, just a dial gauge to set up the cams.
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Brilliant, you will have a great time building this, let us know what spec you decide on.
Also if you need any parts for the install like alternator mounts (especially for LHD) or water-rails, Mick Attree who is based in Erith, near the factory is a really good, reasonably priced source and he knows his Duratecs.
See here
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Not to mention my lovely Duratec LHD SV. I did mine just at the end of 2003. All the details, including costs are on the website below. So, yes they can do it, how resistant to doing it in this day and age is anyone’s guess.
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Bit O/T but I have a decision to make about the rear camber settings on my VW Gti Race car.
At the moment, as a way of getting wheel arch clearance on 235x18 Bridgestone treaded tyres , the car has about 3.5 degrees rear camber. We are about to change to 225x18's that have no arch clearance problems. Bearing in mind we can have any camber setting we like and the standard car is parallel, what camber setting should I go for.
Rear grip is not really an issue as we can dial that in and out with tyre pressure, I am more concerned with tyre scrub, drag and top speed on the straights.
Any suggestions would be apreciated
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Hi Jack, Have a look here as I mapped my Emerald using the Innovate LC-1 wideband, worked really well. There is no doubt you would get a better result from a session with Dave Walker or another good rolling road, however the Innovate/Emerald option worked well for me.
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Thanks Guys, pretty well what I expected, but as always, experience is everything
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A friend out here in Dubai is having problems with the clutch on his VX. Looks like he will need to change it, coupla quick questions.
1: Can you do it with the engine in place or is it an engine out job (pretty sure on the answer to this one)
2: Is is best to replace the CRB at the same time?
Cheers
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I have had very good results with my DL1, both as a logger on the Caterham and a logger/lap timer (displayed on Dash 1) on my Gti Cup race car. I swap the unit between the cars, having plummed in a GPS aerial on both cars.
Analysis software is a little clunky at the start, but very comprehensive. You can get good results by just logging revs and the gps-accelerometer data, so it is just a 3 wire & 1 aerial feed to install. If you want some Caterham data to play with from the Dubai Autodrome, email me through the site below.
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What is it with you blo**dy engineers, can't you follow simple instructions, rather than going of investigating tensile strength's and modulus'sss of elasticity. Should have stuck to the pink projectile 😬
I think I may be able to get the block welded, the problem is that it is hard to find someone you can trust to do it right out here in Dubai.
Fatal flaw in Duratec
in TechTalk
Posted
Thanks for the offer AMMO, I will see how I get on with a local engineering company I have just been told about. Shame I was not more local to you, at least I know it would be in safe hands then. Mind you by the time I shipped it to you and got it repaired, I bet you would have shown me some nice pictures of steel cranks and the moths would be well and truly out of my wallet.
At least in Dubai, you know there is nothing worth buying for a Duratec 😬
Duratec SV, built in Dubai