Dobuy
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Posts posted by Dobuy
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Thanks Phil & Mike, that is incredibly helpful, starting to make sense now. I cleaned up my map (the "missing fields" ) last night, so will try out the new logging parameter settings and see how I get on. Phil, it looks like your ignition has stayed pretty well the same, when imported. I wonder if mine changing has anything to do with it being sequential. Anyway, off for some adventures, I will let you know how I get on.
Cheers,
Neil.
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Well finally got out and ran the car, interesting experience to say the least. The LC-1 works well with sensible indications on the Live Settings page. However, it seems that unnoticed by me, half of my original map ended up becoming zero's, well that put a bit of a hole in my throttle 😳 After I finally worked out how to change the mapping modes (not that obvious) I still could not get any corrections to indicate on the various tables.
I had set up the "closed loop settings tab" as per the one in the supplied Elise 160 map, but no corrections seem to occur. Phil, I notice on your screen shot you have a load of the fields unfilled, specifically the "conditions that enable update of table". Is it OK to run it like that?
The other thing that seems a bit weird, is that when I imported my old map, it halved the ignition timing settings, no idea why, car seems to run OK like this.
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Thanks for that Phil, I am sure that it will make sense once I start.
Danny, my experience with the LC-1 up to now has been good, I mapped my Emerald with it and Chris Good's fuel fiddler. However I managed to fry the Aux outputs of the LC-1, which are the bits you need to integrate with the Emerald, during an extended bout of cranking. Turns out I should have had a 100 ohm resistor in-line to buffer the input to the Emerald. I now have my new LC-1 ($149 for replacement computer) wired up exactly as Karl suggests in the Emerald manual, including the resistor. Initial indications show all is good.
I will let you know how I get on with the new K3 process, but to be honest I see no problems using the LC-1.
I have the K3 software 1.0 rev 8, would some kind soul email me the newer version to nhgreer@gmail.com
Thanks a lot.
Edited by - Dobuy on 13 Apr 2007 05:24:02
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Got my upgraded M3D installed again along with a new LC-1 (as I managed to fry the aux outputs in the last one
)So its all ready to go self mapping. From using Chris Good's fuel fiddler I have a bit of an understanding of mapping the Emerald. However I not quite sure where to start with all the settings for the closed loop and adaptive.
1: Should I start with adaptive or closed loop?
2: Should I select all the load and speed sites (apart from those near idle) or should I be selective and concentrate on one area of the map?
3: In adaptive, I take it the newly written map is stored somewhere, how do you access this when connected to a laptop?
Any suggestions would be much appreciated
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Info in an email from Karl
I've recently had a few reports of this and I've actually got an offending USB adapter here so I can work out a solution. The problem has been narrowed down to a particular USB-serial chip set. If your USB adapter is based on the Prolific chip then this problem can occur with the K3. The K3 firmware sends data to the PC using a different protocol which has increased the data through-put. This has shown that the Prolific doesn't correctly emulate an 'normal' RS232 port.
The USB adapter that we stock and sell uses a FTDI chip set which works perfectly - which is why this issue didn't show up sooner.
Hopefully I'll work out a way of tweeking the ECU communications so the Prolific USB chip set (which is in most of the cheaper USB-serial adapters) doesn't trip over.
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£30 +vat was the quoted amount for the upgrade, very reasonable
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Great job AMMO, good to see you are getting results from your head work
Having smacked my Titan DS on the track and cracked the block, you have a good point. Didn't realise you raised up the 2.0, good idea, obvious really. Might do that to my SV as I have lots of bonnet clearance with the Raceline cam cover
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I have run both the Raceline wet sump and a Titan DS on my Duratec's. They have both been extensively used on the GP circuit, here in Dubai, on slicks.
The wet sump is just fine, as long as it is kept properly filled, there are no problems running it on track. The Titan DS adds complexity, weight and cost and to be honest, I think I should have stayed with the Raceline wet-sump. It is a quality item, well designed and executed, you will have no problems with it.
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Well done Tony
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The mixture should not really be lean under static conditions, maybe on the over-run, but not at stable revs.
I still maintain, it is not a good idea to use someone elses map, no matter how similar the engines are, except as a starting point or base map.
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If you have been given a map, then it is not likely to be exactly right for your car. The biggest difference being the injectors, from one car to another.
Firstly I presume your 02 sensor is calibrated and has the correct voltage parameters set in it to display on your live adjustments page. So your AFR display is correct.
I would simply adjust the mixture on the live adjustment page while sitting in the passenger seat and see if you feel an improvement in the engine performance, or a rise in revs on a constant throttle.
Otherwise log the run and try using Chris Good's fuel fiddler to see how much the map is out of whack. Browse my website below for instructions on this.
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Yep that works fine, as long as all the earths go to the same point. I have the Emerald and all of the LC! earths going to a well grounded post, that in turn connects to the battery directly.
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Yep, 50mm for me too, but then I did do here 2 weeks ago. Might raise it a wee bit for the next track day 😬
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Jack I have been using a LC1 for a year now, with no problems. Just make sure you have everything earthed to the same point and that it is a REALLY good earth.
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Well got it welded up yesterday, nice job by one of the local engineering companies. Welder didn't speak a word of English, all done for the princely sum or £45
Rebuild starts next week.
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AMMO
It's no big deal
I know, I woz just pointing out that I DO take all day to make sure my cams are degreed in properly, whereas for you it is a moments work during your, long lie-in, coffee drinking, lunch cooking, siesta taking, rich and famous lifestyle, days work 😬 😬 😬
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Well I built (assembled) my 260-270bhp spec 2.3 myself. This was my first ever 4-stroke engine build and it all worked remarkably well. Costs were as follows:
2.3 Basic Engine £730.00
Rear crank seal (1S7G6K318AF) £19.00
Main Bearing Bolt Kit (ARP 151-5405) £85.00
Flywheel bolt kit (ARP 251-2802) £40.00
ARP Head Stud Kit (ARP 151-4204) £85.00
Spigot bearing & Misc plugs £10.00
Crank. pulley and sprocket, mod and key £175.00
Gasflow Head £500.00
Cold Start blank plate £35.00
SBD H Beam Con Rods £594.00
Valve spring set £93.00
Valve spring retainer set £57.00
Raceline RLD250M Camshaft inc verniers £405.00
Pistons PIST-OM-DURA-87.50XS £378.00
Pully Bolt (1149131) £3.00
Valve Buckets (1127886) £30.00
Raceline Flywheel £175.00
Titan Dry Sump £594.00
DS hoses £250.00
DS tank £200.00
Emerald ECU £550.00
Wiring loom & sensors £350.00
Cosworth Fuel Injectors £180.00
Total £5,538.00 with no VAT. However, I already had TB's, clutch, exhaust, alternator, starter and anything else not listed.
I found the build process hugely enjoyable, however, as easy as the engine is to work on, you do risk muffing it up. Also I had all the time in the world and just like AMMO 😬, I needed to take a day to make absolutely sure that I had degreed in the cams correctly. Unlike AMMO, I had no idea if my engine would make lots of expensive noises when I first started it.
You get what you pay for, or you take a chance on possibly saving/spending more learning the hard way. I got lucky for once and it paid off nicely. More importantly it gives me the confidence to rip my engine to pieces when I decide to crack the sump/block or something equally stupid.
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Talked to Pete McKewan at Raceline yeaterday and he is very happy about it (well he did originally sell the concept to Quaife). By all accounts Quaife had some ex-Gartrac chap build it for them. Available in either straight cut or syncro, costing from £2500
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Hi Mike, same place they have always been, you just didn't use quite as much of the track as I did
*tongue* -
Ammo
Chris, Cams timed in today
Jeez, I thought I was the only one to take a whole day to degree in Cams
Simon, I had lots of interesting conversations at the Autosport show about upgrading my 45mm Jenvey's to something more vacuous. The perceived wisdom was, don't bother, they are good for about 260-270bhp and I was unlikely t see more than a few bhp improvement with the more exotic choices.
In fact one chap whose opinion I value reckoned he was going back to normal TB's after his ventures with roller barrels.
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Hi Stijn,
Thanks for the offer, actually I am going to the UK tonight for work
Cheers,
Neil.
)
*tongue*
Emerald K3 upgrade
in TechTalk
Posted
First proper mapping session went well, I have started a page on my Forum which allows pictures, with details of my K3 Setup & install
Please have a look and see if I am doing anything obviously wrong, or can improve on
You don't need to be a member to post.
Duratec SV, built in Dubai
Edited by - Dobuy on 14 Apr 2007 13:15:36