SvenDriver

Is their an alternative to Banner that I can pick up at Halfrauds?

I just take it as a sign that the engine is working properly. My favourite days are when the air is moist and the exhaust becomes a little meatier in its note.

I've frequently managed to hit 105 (GPS actual) when on somewhere like Castle Combe. The front can go a little light at that speed and you have to behave accordingly.

Take a very good look at the thread on it. Some plonker had cross-threaded mine. I had to replace it. 🙆🏻 I could not find a way to keep it in when the exhaust was hot.

Bristol. It was real ❗

Yes, incredible but true. A two seater smart car in full dayglo chequerboard with lights and everything.

I run mine at 19psi. I found that 16-18 tended to judder slide and 20 tended to loose grip a little too fast.

Thanks.

Thanks.

What is involved?

This is on my winter jobs list (late). Is it just a case of unbolting it and sliding a new one in or is there something else to be aware of?

It may be the system only leaks when up to temp and pressure. I had a leak on my 7 (K series ) and it only showed up after some enthusiastic driving when it then became pronounced. There should be marks in the engine bay or visible dripping from a fully up to temp engine. I finally tracked it down today - the O-ring on the water pump pipe was knackered.

I did this but also wired in a small adjustable trimmer (1K?) I used this to control th volume.

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(Like someone once said, this is not an MOT issue [8)). I now have in my grubby paws a RA drive adapter (modern one!) and a speedo gear. I also know that something that feels suspiciously like the speedo gear output shaft is where it should be in the gearbox. (Canna be rsed to hoist the car just yet). Now, the plastic output gear looks like it is designed to take a 2mm square drive shaft under load. When I look deep into the bowels of the RA drive adapter (RADA) on the Gearbox side I also see a similar 2mm square hole designed to take the same 2mm square drive shaft. What I do not see is a 2mm Square drive shaft. Looking at my RADA I would say that it is designed to take such a beastie and that it was a push-fit job into a plastic housing - all designed to shear under extreme badness. So, has the 2mm drive shaft that I would expect to see fallen out onto the track somewhere (RIP) and would I be wise to just order a new RADA and offer a sacrafice to the gods at Spares?

I've order the gear and grommet. Caterham also say it's an engine out job - because it is less fiddly. I'm gonna have a ponder when it turns up.

I would check that everything is tight first. If the speedo is jumping a little it does suggest that something is not quite engaging cleanly. So, start with the speedo, then the cable then the RA drive adapter and see if they are all good. To some extent TADS!

On my last track day the drive adaptor popped out of the gearbox housing - at speed 😬 Although I cannot see it I think it has nadged the speedo gear output shaft. The speedo cable and speedometer itself is fine. I can screw the drive adapter all the way into the gearbox and it still free-spins with the speedo cable. This suggests to me that the speedo gear shaft and maybe the gear itself is no more. When I checked it on the trackday the gearbox was shedding oil - suggesting a hole.... So, 1. Does my diagnosis seem reasonable 2. What is involved in replacing the gear a) If it completely missing b) If only the shaft has sheared. 3. Is this now a good time to consider going for an electronic sensor and speedo. I seem to average one speedo problem a year. 🙆🏻 I wouldn't worry but MOT is due in a month

I drilled a 2.5mm through part of the mounting and through the dash and then used a 2.5mm bolt.

I've forgotten what 'normal' is and cannot remember how much play was in the pedal initially. It comes from switching between tin-top and 7 - it has befuddled me methinks.

I've bled the brakes a couple of times now (complete flush in fact) and pumped the hand-brake whilst doing the rears. Now the pedal has about 1" of movement which feels just like spring resistance and then I am stomping on a brick . So I am wondering if maybe it is the brake master cylinder adjustment bar which is set wrongly? Am I mad?

I have used Chemical Metal. Will stay on for a year or more subject to rocks etc.

Final answer: 1. Cigarette lighter socket installed onto a new circuit fed direct from the battery with a 3A inline fuse by the battery. Socket is located on tranny tunnel by the heater. 2. GPS Antennae installed under nose cone on headlamp cross-member. FWIW This seems to be the strongest signal area. The windscreen attenuates the signal a little when mounted near it. Cable routed through pedalbox with a small slot cut into pedalbox cover. 3. Head unit mounted above washer/wiper switches. Head unit is only slightly larger than the bike computer it replaces - and it is black Overall, nice and neat.

Nice shiny unit turned up today. Road-tested in the Tintop. It works I was wondering where people mount the things and the GPS antenna. The head is so small that it would be a shame not to do it nicely. The head unit I think can be dash mounted with a straight bracket. I'm guessing that the best place for the GPS antenna is under the glass fibre nosecone - but that getting there might cause routing issues. The alternative is by the windscreen but I suspect the heating elements will act as a block.

New bearings and decent grease is the only thing that you can do. The fact that the inner and cone are a little worn should not be an issue - they tend to wear into grove that fits the bearings 😬 The crucial thing is to make sure that the cones are properly tightened onto the bearings - not too tight or too loose. Usually, you tighten up until it is a little tight and then back off a little. When you spin the wheel whilst holding the axle it will feel 'smooth'. If it is too loose you will feel a little judderyness. If it is too tight it will feel like it is grinding or clicking. I used to get 10s of thousands of miles out of a set of decent wheels. Cheap stuff is another matter. If you do a lot of off-roading then grit can get through the seals and grind things away quite quickly. 🙆🏻