Dai-X

Sounds perfect - Can I dibs it please - I'll wing a blatmail off in a sec. (You don't want to part-ex it for an Emerald ECU do you? -see previous "for sale" entry 😬) Funnily enough one of the reasons I'm selling the Emerald is to fund another ipod and some gadgetry for an upcoming holiday Cheers, Ben Edited to corrrrect speeling... Edited by - Dai-X on 3 Sep 2009 18:17:44

BTTT now Xmas/NY is out of the way

Hi Dan, It's done 33.4k miles (with the engine rebuilt by Caterham when the previous owner acquired it at ~23k miles). I'm in Leicester, a minute or 2 away from M1/J21 Cheers, Ben

NOW SOLD so both and ☹️ Thank you to all who expressed an interest. Unfortunately needs now must and I'm very reluctantly advertising my Seven. Although I'll be sevenless for a time when this goes, it most certainly will NOT be the last seven I own. Anyway here are the details: 1998 Superlight-R BRG with white nose-band. VHPD engine, Dry-Sumped with original ECU; all coolant hoses (including small/heater/header ones) in (blue) silicon. Std. VHPD manifold; Raceco 8” x 30” silencer Caterham 6-speed ‘box. Limited-Slip Diff. Wide-Track front suspension. Lowered driver’s floor - I’m 6’3” and fit perfectly with a foam seat. (There is a leather S-type seat for both driver and passenger, though) LUKE 4-point Harnesses. FIA rollbar. (not including the cuddly Cartman toy attached thereto in the pictures!) Removable Momo steering-wheel. Cabin heater. Full Caterham weather gear; sidescreens & “high-vis” hood. (with Caterham hoodbag, which attaches to rollbar) Jill-Judd/Softbitsforsevens half-hood. The standard Caterham dash has been replaced with a custom made one. The layout is different and it uses toggle switches as opposed to square plastic “kit-car” type switches and bezeled LEDs. The main-beam and flash functions have been combined onto one toggle switch. First registered Feb 1998, meaning no CAT / emissions testing required for MOT. Also to include an Optimate battery conditioner/charger, for which there is a connection under the passenger side of the dash. £14,500 ono There are some pictures here and it should be appearing on pistonheads very soon. Cheers, Ben Edited by - Dai-X on 31 Jan 2009 20:02:57

If you've not already done so, can I suggest having a good read of this thread here and this one here I learnt loads NB: Before you do, I strongly suggest having a fresh cup of tea to hand and possibly a biscuit or 2 😬 Cheers, Ben Edited for usual speeling stimakes... Edited by - Dai-X on 14 Sep 2007 22:08:29

Hi Ian, Assumng there's no play or anything in any of the joints and it includes the droplinks in the "all fixings", can I have the rear ARB please? I'll send a BlatMail through with my email address etc Cheers, Ben

Bear in mind that the CR500s are significantly wider than some/most other makes for the same specified width. Visually a 205 CR500 looks fine on an 8.5" rim while an R888 is obviously much narrower, looks too narrow IMHO, and is outside the manufacturer's spec (insurance issues???) As an example, I toolk this pic of a 175 CR500 next to a 185 yoko 21R Edited by - Dai-X on 23 May 2007 06:27:55

If it is good to stretch the tyre onto a very wide rim, then you have to wonder (and that's all I'm doing, wondering, not trying to contradict) why Toyo specify 7.5" as the maximum rim size for the 205 R888s. Out of interest as well Avon seem to specify 8.5" as the max rim size for their 205s Anyway, a lot of this may have just become academic for me, as after reading in afew places in the archives about instances of the SLR rims not running true I've just checked one of mine that I was intending to use. Initial inspection seems to suggest it's not as true as it should be. Want to check further, but looks possibly ☹️ Cheers, Ben Edited by - Dai-X on 22 Apr 2007 15:07:39

OK, sounds reasonable - except that of those 2 examples in the picture / in my garage, it certainly looks like it would be all but impossible to make the carcass of the "185" actually wider than the "175", whatever (similar or dissimilar) combination of rims you mounted them on, or pressures (within reason) you inflated them to. This also seems to manifest on fitting "205" "width" tyres to 8.5" rims. I can't find the picture now but there's one kicking about on the interweb of "205" Toyo R888s on 8.5 rims which have the sidewalls sloping out from the tread to the rim at a really scary angle and at no point does any part of the tyre/carcass look wide enough for the rim. However I was in Caterham midlands the other day and they've got a car with "205" width CR500s on 8.5" rears and they look just about spot on, nicely the right width from tread to rim. I wish I could find the picture because again, in the case of the R888s I can't see how they can possibly be the same specification in width as the CR500s. Still, I do appreciate the input must dash now as my lift t'pub is about to roll up (as in arrive not fashion something to ❗ ) Cheers, Ben

Been trying to decide which tyres to get for a while now, so as you'd expect have been scouring the BC archives for opinions/info as well as making notes about which tyres come in which widths/profiles. Obviously the opinions are subjective but the widths are spec'd in mm so they're easy to compare. Are they B 😳LL 😳CKS ❗ I've got Yoko A021Rs on at the moment which are 185/60R13 I've just compared them to some CR500s which are 175/55R13 Now when I went to school I'm fairly sure that 185mm was longer than 175mm - So how come the 175 CR500s are wider than the 185 '21Rs 🤔 Or am I missing something fundamental - do different manufactures measure from different points on the tyre? If so where the blue blazes does one find out which points each manufacturer measures from 🤔 I even took a picture of both tyres next to each other. (then I went out for a blat and my headlamp lens assembly fell out ❗ 😳 - didn't realise my brakes were that good 😬 ) Cheers, Ben 😬 Edited by - Dai-X on 21 Apr 2007 18:08:10

Nothing to do with me, but just spotted this on eBay and remebered this post... Cheers, Ben Edited by - Dai-X on 13 Apr 2007 13:45:14

It's well worth having a read of this thread here and this one here Cheers, Ben Edited by - Dai-X on 11 Apr 2007 12:26:20

Chris, I think that's a brilliant find - thanks. I think a lot of people (including me, before I had a proper look) don't appreciate how hard it is to find appropriately strong M7 screws/bolts, especially without having to obtain a small mortgage to buy them... Cheers, Ben

(BC likes me again now so can post directly ) Firstly not sure how it can find a "home position" with no power but anyway this is definitely not how mine appears to operate. To qualify my statement(s), this is my experience / conclusions When I first acquired the car, starting from cold was not easy at all. Much pressing of the throttle and cajoling was the order of the day. My car's electrics had a problem in that the engine did not shut down on turning the ignition switch off, but had to be turned off on the "red handle" This problem was rectified, so the engine switched off properly with the ignition key. The ECU was reset using the afore mentioned method. When reset using this method the IACV clicked & whirred AFTER the ignition had been switched off with the key (last step of procedure). From that moment, starting from cold was improved enormously, catching within a few revs without touching the throttle. Subsequently, when the engine is turned off using the ignition key, it stops, and then the IACV can usually be heard to be moving. I have personally concluded that this is returning it to the position that it expects to be found in when it is switched back on from fully removing the power. I would also suggest that when the power is completely killed (red handle) to stop the engine, that the ecu then has no way of knowing or remembering where the IACV was in it's last position (after all it is just a stepper motor and has no positional feedback AS FAR AS I KNOW) I concluded that this explains why it can (demonstrably on mine) make subsequent starting from a different temperature (cold) more difficult, until the ECU has been reset. I know from some posts last year, and reading the archives that the “ignition key failing to stop the engine” problem existed on quite afew cars. A solution to this had been suggested which involved using the ignition switch to cut the power to the permanent 12V feed to the ECU as well as the “ignition sense” input. This indeed would stop the engine, but on removing all power from the ECU would obviously stop it from homing (or whatever it is actually doing) the IACV. If this mod has been carried out on your car, then my suggestion will not help and I doubt that resetting the ECU will either. By the way, I’m not trying to say this IS the problem, just that it's possible and worth a look, and that the above behaviour of my car explains my suggestion. Cheers, Ben

Huzzah ❗ 😬