Klaus Loske

Bill, $2200 is for the GT6 6-carb version... the 4 cyl version is 1300 $ including manifold and stuff... not too bad at the current exchange rate. Guess I have to rebuild my Spitfire that is in boxes since the last 10 years.... Foxy, which FCRs are you using for the Vauxhall? 39 or 41s? Did you calculate the length of the runners? Is there any good literature or site around how to do a proper manifold design? Klaus 1700+ X-flow Combustion is not a secret

Happy new year everybody!!!! I found some interesting press articles about the use of Keihins on Spitfires... Ther is a US company that provides Keihin kits for the Spitfire. www.prirace.com Does anybody know how to choose the carb size for a given engine capacity??? My x-flow is around 1800 ccm, better to choose 39 or 41 FCR´s? Klaus 1700+ X-flow Combustion is not a secret

Hi, is there any progress with the Keihin Project? I think about fitting some Keihins to my X-flow as well. Also making an airbox in the process... Any knowledge about this out there??? Have a happy new year!!!!!! Klaus 1700+ X-flow Combustion is not a secret

Hi, just build a flasher unit for my motor cycle using a PICmicrocontroller. Very useful little thing and you can program everything you like. In fact also just finished a home made shift light using a PIC. Which functions would one need to use it as a self cancelling switch? Pushbuttons to operate? Real self cancelling mechanism depending on steering angle or just a timer? If you give some feedback, I might come up with a simple design. Parts usually cost less than 10 Euros... Klaus 1700+ X-flow Combustion is not a secret

Hi, the Rover headertank part number could be EAP8713, at least this is the one which I bought when I modified my X-flow cooling system. Better double check.... Greetings Klaus 1700+ X-flow Combustion is not a secret

Just saw your picture of the damaged sump... The easiest way is to remove the two bolts which bolt the dust plate to the bellgousing as seen on your picture. Then the dustplate should come off. Klaus 1700+ X-flow Combustion is not a secret

Hi, if you have the split dust shield, the split should be on the right side near the bottom of the block and on the left side near the starter motor. The starter motor must not be removed. The lower part of the dust shield can be removed by undoing the two lowest bolts. This will give you access to the rearmost bolts of the sump. If you need a new sump, have a look at the James Whiting shallow sump. Gives you lots of ground clearance.... Klaus 1700+ X-flow Combustion is not a secret

Hi, do you have any advice if I want to remove the water take-off from my x-flow manifold? I have heared that they are very hard to get out because they tend to be corroded. Any advice if it should shear off? Thanks Klaus 1700+ X-flow Combustion is not a secret

Hi all! Out of curiosity.. What is your favourite tyre-rim combination Mine is 185/60-14 Yokohama A048 6J14 ET19 Compomotive ML Klaus 1700+ X-flow Combustion is not a secret

Hi Brent, I have also installed the 80mm dia VDO speedo. Still using the angle drive though, but the VDO offers a couple of options about which sensor you can use. You can have a look at hometown.aol.de/kloske Cheers Klaus 1700+ X-flow Combustion is not a secret

Hi, since the search facility is down... what happened to the carbon rear light blocks??? Ty Klaus 1700+ X-flow Combustion is not a secret

Hi, another problem which I am facing is that, since I am living in Germany, the wheel size is listed in my vehicle papers. So I have to use 185/60-14 to avoid problems with the po***e. I know it sounds stupid, but they are pretty good in spotting wrong tyres. Luckily they are not so good in spotting Webers... 😬 So far, I found out that they are 6J14... Any guess for the offset (ET) value??? Ty Klaus 1700+ X-flow Combustion is not a secret

Hi, I want to run 185/60-14 rubbers on my car. Does anybody know the exact spec of the required wheels? Guess they should be something like 6J14, but what is the ET? I know, you now flame me to death that I should use 13" ones, but I use a very short diff so 13" wheels will be too short for my setup. Thanks for you help! Klaus 1700+ X-flow Combustion is not a secret

Hi, thats why I use the spare terminal on the ignition barrel to get the system in "tinker" mode... The spare terminal gets power when the key is in the first position which leave the ignition off, so you can crank the eingine without starting it. Getting the live straight before the key switch has imho the disadvantage that the engine would crank even if the key is not in... not what I really like if some kids press the button while parked and the car jumps forward into the next parked car. Klaus 1700+ X-flow Combustion is not a secret

Chris, I used the old style internal lateral mounts instead of the outside alloy profiles which are rivetted to the chassis. I do not quite like the external ones (ground clearance and strange thing to put tensile loads in pop rivets). I already got flamed because I use the heavy old style steel bars, so I am currently working on an aluminium profile solution which mounts inside the car resting on the fwd and rwd chassis rail... Klaus 1700+ X-flow Combustion is not a secret

Hi Chris, you can have a look here... http://hometown.aol.de/kloske/seven/seat.htm Klaus 1700+ X-flow Combustion is not a secret

Hi Dave, the black plastic cover should slide off with a bit of convincement. The starter solenoid is the white/red and the spare terminal on the barrel should give you 12v on the first key position. It is hard to see behind the dash, I removed the steering wheel (quick out! 😬) so it is more accessable. Have fun Klaus 1700+ X-flow Combustion is not a secret

Hi, Eric was quicker than me to look up the number... With respect to fouling, I have the opposite experience. With BP7ES, I had a lot of trouble driving at heavy traffic (e.g. city, slow, low revs). They were heavily fouling an I constantly had to clean them, sometimes 3-4 times a week... With the Platinum ones, I have no problem so far, I have never taken them out since I put them in and no sign of misfire. Klaus 1700+ X-flow Combustion is not a secret

Steve, I am not shure if there are direct 12V LED bulbs available. I would assume that this is quit expensive. So it would require some fiddling... basically it is the LED and a resistor to drop the voltage from 12V to the LED voltage. Depending on the bulb you currently have it could be quite easy though. If it is a old style bulb, with a metal body, you can simply break the bulb and re-use the metal body wher you solder in the LED and resistor. For glass body bulbs, I have to think a bit more... Klaus 1700+ X-flow Combustion is not a secret

To change the color, you have to check if the color comes from the bulb, i.e. condom approach. It may also be that the color comes from an internal color filter, then you can try if you can break the color filter with a screw driver through the bulb hole and then use the condom approach to get a different color. You can also try to fit color LED´s. The are available at different brightnesses and colors, including cool blue... but it needs a bit more fiddling around with. Klaus 1700+ X-flow Combustion is not a secret

Hi, I was running BP7ES in my 145hp X-flow. The problem was that the plugs were constantly fouling due to the rich mixture at low rpm. Since one year I am trying the Platinum version of the NGK plugs. So far, they work really good. Very little fouling of the plugs and they have excellent self cleaning capabilities. They are much more expensive (about 4x) but I hate to clean the plugs every week and therefore it is acceptable. Don´t have the ident code at hand but can look it up if anybody is interested. Klaus 1700+ X-flow Combustion is not a secret

Ian, thinking about doing the same thing... this would also lift my seat a little, because it is a bit too low now. Can you post some pics? Klaus 1700+ X-flow Combustion is not a secret

Hi, I have installed my Mog carbon seat using the old style rails in order to prevent sagging. (Even thoug some people already commented that it is a heavy solution - I am currently working on a lighter one...). You can see it here... http://hometown.aol.de/kloske/seven/seat.htm Klaus 1700+ X-flow Combustion is not a secret

Hi, I also looked into it. The replacement LED bulbs are in my opinion not really up to the job. Simply not enough LEDs per bulb to give you enough light output. You also will use them in the standard rear light housing. DIY might be a good option. You still have to find a nice housing if you want to get rid of the rubber block one. You want at least 30 LEDs per function, e.g. 30 for left break/tail, 30 for right break/tail, 30 for each indicator to give you enough light output. LEDs are also very directional, so you have to bend them slightly to give a nice light pattern. Probably very important for a Cat because the light are so low, if all LEDs are just parallel to the road surface, the person behind you might not even see that they are on. High brightness LEDs can also be quite expensive and with almost 100 to install, you will have a hard time on the soldering iron. You also might consider to get a custom circuit board (pcb). I have done this for my motorcycle stop/tail light and the result is quite good. The rear light now consumes considerably less power which results in better charging of my battery. Probably the best option is to buy some nice LED lights like the ones mentioned in the previous post. You can also look here http://www.maxxima.com/transportationlighting/ or here http://www.hella.com.au/cgi-bin/catalogue.pl?flcmd=showsection&flrecsection=Signal Looks like they have approval and you do not have the hassle to solder them yourself. If you intend to use them for the indicators as well, you need to replace the flasher relay. The standard relays are desined to increase flash rate if a bulb goes dead (they detect the reduced current flow). If you use LED indicator lights, they will have a much smaller current draw, therefor the flash frequency is increased. Klaus 1700+ X-flow Combustion is not a secret

steve, Fatcat means it is a phat caterham it is not describing the human driving it .... I think! With respect to weight savings, is your throttle stop weight optimised? Looks like is screwed up your PWR... Klaus