James7

Hi Paul, I’m not an expert in such matters, but a couple of ideas for you: For additional baggage there’s the Soft Bits Re-bag or a different take on the same idea by Carbon Bits For inventive racking,some people have fabricated racks to attach to the roll bar James

I'm afraid that I can't help you with the problem, but one thing to add that may assist those who can is that despite Ford labelling it a Duratec, it is in fact a Zetec engine! I used to have a Focus with a 2.0 Zetec which I understand is the base for the ST170, with variable valve timing, etc added. I also had a Focus ST 2.5T. Nice cars. James Edited by - James7 on 29 Dec 2010 18:20:06

I’d be interested in a novice day held at a northern venue James

Yes charlie_pank, my car is as you describe. By ignition kill switch, I mean an aero style ignition switch with a red cover flap, something similar to this. I think I’ve been stopping and starting the car in the manner you describe but am slightly puzzled by the whistle / buzz that continues for several minutes after the ignition switch has been switched off and the engine immobilised, unless the red FIA isolator key is also removed (as experienced by St Eve). I think it may be something to do with the injection (would this be possible?) Thanks James

Thanks for the advice guys I’ve identified the problem as a dodgy wiring connection behind the dashboard, managed to ‘fix’ it by giving it a prod and wiggle but a more thorough investigation / remedy may be required. Getting your head right under the dash is an exercise in contortion though! I’ll most likely refrain from removing the isolator key on regular basis in future if it’s a possible weak point. I thought that the ignition seemed to stay on unless I removed it but not quite so sure now. It does seem to keep up an electrical buzzing noise once the engine is killed though, but this goes off after a few minutes. Is this normal? Cheers James

Thanks, yes I’ve disarmed it ok and I’ve now replaced the battery in the key fob. Maybe it is something other than the immobiliser? I’ve also replaced the ECU and fuel pump fuses but still no joy. None of the instruments on the dash board are working either, except for the headlights, hazard lights and horn. Any thoughts?

Only had the car a three weeks, any help gratefully received! Background: 2003 1.6 K series ex Academy car. I normally remove the red isolator key when not in use as the previous owner fitted a starter button and ignition kill switch. I think that the ignition remains on unless the isolator is turned / removed. When reinstating the isolator key, I give the Rover key fob 4x unlock presses to reset the immobiliser and one unlock press to deactivate it. Problem: Yesterday I think I went through this procedure (was just heading out to local L7Club area meet but didn’t make it in the end ☹️) but the car wouldn’t start and no amount of messing about, arming and unarming the immobiliser seems to have worked. The starter motor will turn over but will not fire the engine up at all. I think when I’ve failed to properly de-arm the immobiliser before, the engine has caught for a second and then been cut by the immobiliser. Normally when I deactivate the immobiliser and open the ignition kill switch I can hear the fuel pump come on, but this has remained silent with this problem. I’ve seen the threads re the inertia switch and have checked / pressed this (think I’m right in thinking this is the button attached to the bulkhead above the ECU on the passenger side of the engine bay?) I haven’t tried to replace the batteries in the key fob yet but they seem to be communicating with the immobiliser ok – flashes, etc when I press it. Could a weak fob battery be the issue / where would sell a replacement battery? Any suggestions on what I am doing wrong / what to check for? Cheers James Edited by - James7 on 19 Nov 2010 17:00:31