TeKK

It's not the wheel hub itself is it? I clattered my Polo against a kerb in the snow and they were worried I'd bent the hub but luckily it's ok.

Had exactly the same problem ages ago (had to change brake bulb, ended up with full lights worth of water down my leg and shoe) Removed the plastic cover, drill two small holes on the underside (remembering which way is up!!) and reattach. Haven't had another problem since.

I bought some stuff from B&Q since my girlfriend was sat in the passenger seat getting her legs burnt by the sidewall on hot days (K-Series). It was a roll of thin card covered in foil, with a thin layer of polystyrene on the other. Designed for putting behind radiators to push their heat into the room. I applied it to the inside of the footwell with the foil against the wall, and it did a great job! Obviously not advisable for the engine bay due to the card.

Just catching up with this thread, and it sounds remarkably like the same feeling I've had. The car felt fine for ages until driving around scotland when the rear started to feel quite 'loose' and jumpy over bumps. It's a hard one to describe but there's no damage to the a-frame or de-dion or etc. and I've replaced the bushes at the rear, which has improved it but it hasn't completely vanished. How did you come to the conclusion of the wishbone rod ends? Are there any visible signs I can look for?

I had exactly the same issue a year or so ago. Don't know if the dipstick had jumped out or I'd just not pushed it fully home, but year had a nice coating of oil on the block. Just keep an eye on it

Hi Jonathan, I had the exact same problem but mine was the drivers side rear light and instrument lighting. It was the bulb from the speedo earthing onto the speedo casing that was doing it, so was a simple fix. It does sound like an earthing problem, check the earth points under the dash (passenger side and apparently above the ignition, but mine doesn't have one there) Failing that, PartCo sell fuses mucho cheaply for the trial and error route 😬

Aww man I would've loved GP4! And porsche challenge! Might just have to get Rfactor reinstalled and meet up with everyone online 😬

My alloys that I had refurbed were done by a company called Romax in Stockton. They removed the tyres, and stuck them in an acid bath to remove, in my case, corrosion. They then shot blasted them and did a full respray. Incidentally, these wheels will shortly be for sale :)

Excellent, we have a PartCo across the road that has all the unipart stuff so I'll get the kit from there! Garage doing the fitting is MacDonald Racing, they build Morgans and my dad informs me they tuned up an Austin Princess of his before I was born! 😬

Hi guys, through judicious use of the search function I am non the wiser, so... My 1995 1.4 K-series Supersport is booked in for a cambelt change this month. 1) Do I need to have the tensioner changed? (assuming from searching it's a manual) 2) Is this the correct cambelt? Linky Link and if so, is it the 23mm one I read about on here? I just want to have my facts right when I go to buy the parts Edited by - TeKK on 12 Apr 2010 15:54:39

I've got a under-dash handbrake and haven't had any issues. Yes it's a bit fiddly pulling away on a hill so I simply loosen one side of the harness so I can lean forward. I like having the tunnel clear, nice armrest when required to use the motorway.

Yeah it's a positively balmy 4 degrees here. Walking around in a t-shirt and shorts 😬 @Tyrone: Sounds good, I will persist till next wednesday, picking up correct torque wrench end bit thingy this evening since I haven't torqued em yet

Hi Mark, That sounds like a good solution, I'll bear that in mind, and like you say, a bit more secure

Wrong way good sir, my wheel is too high, but yes I saw those answers if it's too low

Mr Tyrone, are you insinuating that my car is slow and my sense of direction could do with some help?? 😬 I'll try dropping the pressure and applying brute force this evening. Should be able to make to the mouse, haven't had one of their burgers in a while 😬 If I'm still stuck I'll let you know and hopefully bring the seven along, weather and road salt permitting.

Hello chaps, Had a search of blatchat for spare wheel issues and none seem to fit my problem. I recently went from 14" wheels to 13" including the spare. I went to bolt my new spare on the carrier last night using the Y-shaped brace and long bolt, and unlike most postings about the issue, my Y-Brace finishes too high up to let me get the bolt into bodywork. With most issues it's usually too low. Any ideas? Granted I think the pressure may be at 30psi so dropping that might let me line it up. Is it ok to bend the carrier downwards slightly? The bolt is only missing by say, half an inch. And yes I want to keep the spare on the car.

I'd check your battery fluid levels first, make sure it's nicely topped up. Also, is it a Banner Battery? (one of the old starting bulls), since I had issues with my old one. I had the exact same problem you describe, pulled onto petrol forecourt after quick blast down the road from my house, went to restart and sounded like a dead battery. After a cool down period, she started again no problem so it was as if the battery was over heating. I understand K-Series engines can have starter issues, but I replaced my very old and leaking 😳 banner battery with the powervamp and she has no more starting problems whatsoever. Edit to add - I moved my battery earth point (negative lead) to a different position on the engine, with a cleaner join thanks to some emery cloth and some good ol' vaseline, may have improved matters too. Edited by - TeKK on 25 Nov 2009 16:37:30

Mine's a '95 de-dion and I've been told replacing the bushes all round will certainly improve quality of ride etc. So count me interested too, would be nice to know a price tho before I can commit (I'm not made of money!)

Just dragging this topic from the past Just bought the same Wipac headlights and I think I'm having the same issue with getting them to fit snugly in the original CC bowls (from 1995). Can someone shed some light on the 'fettling' described above? I assume I'm going to have to bend some metal on the bowls out of the way.

I have the same problem with mine. I cannot push the gear lever 'down' but if I just apply pressure and do the up-and-left motion, it slots into reverse. So I don't think you need much pressure to engage it. So yeah, alteration or weetabix as suggested 😬

Ahh yes, and those bloody vans! The one in front was fine, he indicated straight away and slowed down for us, the one behind him was being a right arse Kept drifting over when I pulled out to overtake and then putting his foot down Funnily enough didn't hit anymore traffic after those two! No idea about the Elise, think his name was Rob, Brian said he was coming to Masham but may have changed his mind.

Agreed, great weather, came down with the NE7ERS, and we even had time afterwards for a tour around the Theakston Brewery in Masham, marvellous 😬 Probably did spot you but there were so many Seven related cars and I actually forgot which one was mine!

I also had confusion when I first stuck my car on axle stands. I probably did it wrong but no damage as a result 😬 However, slightly O/T, it would be nice if the FAQ would allow photos.

My K-Series does it too. When I first posted about it I was told not to worry as it's a common factor (they all do that sir - TADTS). A lot of people were saying it's just a case of topping up the gearbox oil with a tiny amount.

No complaints at all about the Powervamp! Spoke to Ed Roller, who was surprised he was still being mentioned on the forum, and appreciated the coverage. A bit more expensive but well worth it in terms of quality. I replaced a very worn out Banner with it, and it has so much turning power in my little 1.4 K-series that it practically flips the car over when I turn the key. It may just be me but I'm sure the car actually runs smoother and is less prone to stalling when cold thanks to the extra juice. *thumbup*