Don Cook

Anybody free for coming to the Board on Monday 06/04/2014? We would be ok. First time since the new year!

Hello Gents, Thanks for the help. I don’t need to remove the timing belt pulley just the alternator and dry sump drive pulleys. The bolts that attach the alternator drive pulley to the crank are covered by an aluminium casting so are not accessible. The dry sump pump drive pulley has 3 very small allen bolts on the end. These don’t look big enough to do much. The question is I think, how to remove the aluminium cover to get access to the bolts behind. Thanks, Don.

as above 2 ltr XE with caterham dry sump set-up. Anybody know how to get the pulley (alternator drive) off? Cheers, Don

Hello Paul, YHM Cheers, Don.

Anyone

I've always found WEBCON pretty good.

Hello Paul, Thanks for getting back. Yes I mean replacing the 2 idlers and the tensioner. It's a standard setup. It's the LN version with square teeth. The reason for the change is that the engine is out of the car at the minute and although it's low mileage (15K) it has the idler known to suddenly fail. Thanks, Don. Edited by - Don Cook on 11 May 2014 10:28:31

Hello, Can anyone point me to a procedure for changing the timing belt and pulleys on a late 2.0 L XE. Thanks, Don.

Hello John, sorry for the late response. Yes that was me. Cheers.

Hello, Two years ago I had problems with the clutch slave cylinder. 2L XE with Caterham dry sump. Occasionally the fluid would leak out. At that time the recommended solution was to replace the co-axial slave cylinder with the latest design which at that time was the black one from Titan motor sport. This is what I did. After a short while I had the problem that once the car was warmed up the clutch would go very soft and the fluid would turn a very black gloss black colour. Someone recommended flushing out the DOT 4 fluid that was in there and replacing it with DOT 3. I did this last year but now the seals are leaking quite badly. I’ve ordered a repair kit and I’m looking forward to engine out split engine and gearbox etc. Main problem is what is causing it. Titan say that DOT 4 should be fine. Any ideas / advice welcome. Cheers, Don.

Does anybody have any idea who may supply them? Thanks.

Thanks, Took a visitor from Holland to see the coast line from Whitby to Redcar. Lovely couple of hours. Finished up in the Downe arms for a quick sherbet then home for diner.

Hello, Do you have any info about the map in the ECU? Cheers, Don.

I normally take the plugs out and turn the engin with the starter untill I see the oil pressure come up a bit, then put back the plugs and away you go.

For about half a second. I suspect Mr Ryan and his lovely wife.

Painted grey / alloy, heading towards the A 171.

About 8:45 going direction Guisborough. Sort of tungsten colour.

Eey-up, Sorry John that was me. Were you in the 7? and are you coming along tonight? Don.

2 One alloy and one painted silver parked next to the Duke of Wellington.

Hello Paul, I've not been able to check the bores yet but from memory it was fine when I replaced the slave cylinder a few weeks ago. What I can't get my head around is why this should start now after 12 years of running with the old cylinder. Cheers, Don.

Thanks EFA, Point is that it's been more or less trouble free for the last 12 years so why the issue now. I don't particularly want to make quite a significant modification if it can be fixed. Cheers, Don.

Anymore ideas? Plan to start with the easy bit first. Master cylinder and work downwards.

Hello Dave, We got home without any problems. I didn’t bother to refresh the fluid any more as that only fixed things for a short while. The clutch was still working but the pedal was virtually on the floor. When setting off from standstill I could pump it up to reasonable position with it in neutral. We stopped over at the Crieff Hydro and ended up taking in the Yorkshire dales. Got home Monday 16:00 hrs. Again what a fabulous few days. We’ll definitely have to do it again. Cheers, Don.

A mystery. 2.0L XE with Caterham dry sump bell housing. I recently replaced the clutch slave cylinder. The old one (14 years and 14000 miles) would leak when not used for long periods like over winter. So whilst the gearbox was out for a refurb I decided to fix it. On the first run out after about 100 continuous miles the clutch pedal became spongy and the bite point moved progressively further towards to the bottom. When I had a look the clutch fluid was black so I drained it out, purged as much of the remainder out as I could and refilled with fresh DOT 4 fluid. The spongyness disappeared and everything was fine for about another 100 miles then the same scenario again and again. Each time the fluid was black but with each refill, less black. Each time the fluid level was the same as when filled. If I stop the engine then after a short time say 30 mins the pedal is back to normal which tends to indicate a temperature element. I never had any such issues with the old cylinder. Anyone have any idea what is going on? Cheers, Don

Thanks Paul, That's just what I needed. Cheers, Don.