BigCol

oo-er... didn't know that the registration people need to see the car... 😳 isn't it simply a paperwork exercise... given the relevant forms, you get a tax disc and some sort of certification to act as a temporary V5 so you can get plates made up...? otherwise, are you meant to transport the car to them?

view it as a super-duper MoT... you're allowed to drive to such things as long as you're insured (on the chassis number as obviously you can't get a reg number without an IVA pass!) and the appointment has been pre-booked.

A timely enquiry... was going to make a similar post. Whilst there is one IVA standard, there are many different interpretations (be it centres or individual testers) it seems. My IVA is on Thursday and as I'm presenting the car myself (to save the £420 + VAT Caterham change to do so on my behalf... though what value a guaranteed pass?) and am already nervous... despite following the build and IVA manuals meticulously. So any hints (will drive there with my foot on the brake to bed them in) gratefully received!

thanks everyone! the Soft Bits option is where I'll go given their quality of service, that it's their original design etc re the aero comments... that'll be an early bit of upgraditus! the initial spec was chosen to a. meet budget (well, exceed it by an acceptable, to me but undisclosed to Mem Sahib, amount) and b. be tolerated by the same it's a marathon, not a sprint. 😳

My build is complete! The car goes for its PBC on Monday and then its IVA on the 30th. So, I am contemplating actually driving the car...! I understand why it's de rigueur to use a half hood rather than the cumbersome full one but which - Caterham's own or Soft Bits For 7's or another...? This assumes they are different products of course... (the photos on Thundersport's website are identical to those on Caterham's) Most people seem to prefer the Soft Bits one - is that due to economics, availability, asthetics, practicality or...? Advice for those that know better than me please...

that sounds reassuring, thanks! haven't tried braking (foot or handbrake... not that the latter is adjusted yet!) but will - presumably that should mimic the friction of the wheels being on the ground and so the engine should continue to run and the wheels remain stationary... if the engine stalls, then the clutch definitely ain't working!

My build is all but done; however, I have one (potential) issue... The car is still up on the axle stands... if I fire up the engine and put the clutch fully down, moving into gear causes the rear wheels to rotate (though it goes into gear easily with no nasty noises) I thought it might need some adjustment of the clutch stop - maybe it wasn't going down enough (like the Mrs...) but that made no difference... nor did (twice!) re-bleeding the clutch. So I asked the nice chaps at Caterham for some advice and they said: "I have just had a chat with one of our mechanics and he said that the wheels turning whilst the car is in the air is standard. When the car is on the ground it will be ok." Really...? If so, can someone please put my mind at rest and talk me through the engineering physics as to why I'd really appreciate it; to me a clutch either disengages the drive from the engine to the drivechain or it doesn't and to me, it looks like mine doesn't!

was hoping to meet you chaps soon... but Tue 14 May is now Reading v Man City (rearranged last home game of the season as latter are in Cup Final) and will be in France on Tue 11 Jun... so hope to see you on Tue 9 Jul - the day after my big birthday! At least my car should be on the road by then (bookings: PBC 20 May, IVA 30 May)

I promised I'd post some... so here you are! Apologies that the order seems to be totally at odds with logic... guess there's some settings I need to tweak...

try this I subsequently changed the order of the cables with the red one uppermost as it made the routing neater. Edited by - BigCol on 27 Apr 2013 18:09:34

That's correct... I got confused by the build manual too... When you realise that only one cable will fit the left-hand terminal, then it's much easier - the other three go on the right-hand terminal! I've a photo... but haven't sorted out how to show them to everyone oh here (yet)!

could (and will) do both of those! ultimately, I've been told the sender will be replaced as part of the post-build check but even though I am pretty sure I know already, I would like to confirm where the issue is.

I tried again with plugs out to lessen strain on the starter: new gauge made no difference... new cable made no difference... new sender looked far too difficult to fit... Derek at Caterham, after advice from their engine builders ("they never fail... 110% sure you'll be OK") said JFDI (or words to that effect!) So (having confirmed if doing so left the engine FUBAR, they'd replace it!) I did... and it works (and still shows no oil pressure!)

good point... no, I didn't pre-fill the filter is the oil level such that I could unscrew the filter, to ensure it's full, without loads of oil ending up on the garage floor...?

The build is going well (mostly)! I put the fluids in on Friday and have an oil drip (reckoned by Caterham probably to be gearbox oil seal and they'll fix it at the post-build check) Today, I connected up the battery, confirmed lights etc all work (well, most did but they all do now...) which brought me onto the engine start-up... However, when I turned the engine over (with interim switch disconnected, so won't fire), it went fine but with absolutely no movement on the oil pressure gauge, despite turning it over for the recommended 30-40 seconds and giving it several other, shorter, goes... I've a new oil pressure sender and gauge in tonight's post from Caterham in case one of those is at fault. I know better to go hung-ho until I know the appropriate bits are all suitably lubricated but I want to get on with it (oo-er Mrs) Anyone any ideas as to the issue? (for reference, if relevant... I'm building a 140 SuperSport - so 1.6 Ford Sigma engine)

a few minutes with coarse cloth-backed abrasive (B&Q don't stock emery cloth!) on a sanding block did the job! (apologies... I will get a round tuit and post some build photos one day... promise!)

had remembered about the strip but wasn't sure how much that would compensate for.

Thanks to all who answered my initial query... you were right, I was worried over nothing - the steering, now complete, runs smoothly when the steering wheel is turned. Next query... have just attached the carbon wing protectors to the rear wings. Despite being VERY careful, the protector isn't quite straight and so is slightly proud on the inboard edge which will abut the car's body - only by 1mm or so but I reckon I should trim it before fitting the wing. Can I simply get the dremmel out and carefully grind away the excess? Are there any precautions should I make to prevent chipping?

good advice... I started an inventory but was overwhelmed - the parts list is just that: a list! but your suggestion of cross-referencing the build manual is a good one. so far, my only shortages have been grommets, a couple of washers (one a loss rather than a shortage to be honest) and some electrical connectors. Derek at the factory has been brilliant - both in terms of advice but also reacting promptly to getting these bits in the post promptly (including some brake pipes which I though I hadn't got but then found later when looking for something else!)

He took a coffee, white, one sugar...

I too did lots of research months ago but only a limited amount of follow-up recently due to my panic to get the garage clear (and painted) once I'd got the delivery date! The nice delivery chap from Caterham (Tim too I think) first moved the stands I'd put out so we could carry the very heavy box one in - DeDion, rack and lots of other heavy bits... and then the others (which vary drastically in weight). As commented above, he put the wheels down and then we put the chassis on those. One of us then lifted an end and the other moved the stands into place - all very easy. That said, if you still want the spacing of mine, I'd happily get them for you.

I've identified a useful blind spot for just that! 😳

Thanks for the reassurances... I was happy that movement was smooth, if heavy - but it is designed to be moved by hand of course! I have been enjoying the building, rather than recording /documenting it... will take (and post) some pictures tomorrow though. That said, I do have a camera automatically taking a photo every 10 seconds so I can make a time-lapse video when I'm done!

just twisting the discs - haven't put the steering column in yet (as build guide said to wait until the engine's in...

I'm one day into the build of my 140 Supersport... Could you put my mind at rest (or advise me what I've done wrong!) please? I've built the front suspension and whilst the hubs move smoothly, left to right without notches or catching, it seems to me to be very stiff - requiring quite a bit of effort - more than I'd expect - to move it... It that OK or am I unnecessarily worried and have incorrect expectations?!