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PlastererPete

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Posts posted by PlastererPete

  1. As Jonathan has said use Isopropyl Alcohol. It will potentially strip any waxes/polishes you have on there but shouldn’t affect the paintwork, but I’d test on an inconspicuous bit of PPF first as it may react with that. 

  2. Thanks gents. Looks like I’ll have to investigate the boot floor and see whats occurring. Annoying thing is, the Optimate charger still works fine using it to maintain the battery. 

  3. I have a 12v socket on the rear bulkhead between the seats of my CSR. Its the original one and seems to be getting a tad tired. Plugging a usb adaptor in seems to intermittently charge my phone and X3.
     

    I’ve sanded the inside of it but it hasnt improved so guessing it needs replacement. Only way I can see to get access to it would be from underneath avoiding the prop-shaft and diff.  Is there any easer way that I’ve missed?

    Cheers,

    Peter

  4. 50 minutes ago, Suttons said:

    Does any one who has installed the cafe racer LED headlights have any recommendations how to fit the retaining clips to the light surround

    When I tested fitted my chinese versions of the same lights you had to widen the clips slightly to allow for the extra depth of the unit. 

  5. @JP I haven’t got one myself as my primaries are on the opposite side. I have got DEI exhaust sleeves and Funk Motorsport cable heat shields. The cable shields are just cut to length things so I assume the starter motor shield would be a similar thing. 

    • Like 1
  6. “DEI”do heatshield blankets for starter motors (available from Demon Tweeks) as do “Funk Motorsport”. Both priced around the same. 
    They look thinner than the one you have but are probably a better grade of materials. 

    • Like 1
  7. I,d probably have to agree with Ainsley. I wouldn't feel comfortable putting more than 20-25kgs in the boot. Its one thing being able to hold it while the car is stationary, its another asking it to sustain the load and then the additional momentum once it gets lifted slightly and then falls again after going over an unexpected bump on your journey. It could end up being the equivalent to 30-35kgs or more. 

  8. Well today was the day. Full of “man flu” I’ve spent the morning changing the joints.  It was well needed as two of them were very very stiff and one was unmovable. 
    Initially had trouble getting the lower bolts out as I didn't have the correct imperial allen socket but a T30, a pair of mole grips and some heat persuaded them out. 
    Thanks @SamC for the specs of bolts and for pre-warning me about the potential difficulty of those lower bolts. 
     

    Just a quick note that I couldn’t find the correct bolts for the rocker arm off the shelf, so bought 70mm versions and cut them down. Its worked a treat with the shank/thread ratio. 
    image.thumb.jpg.0ad22cac9242d5df10a684a068fa2b61.jpg

    • Like 2
  9. 11 minutes ago, SamC said:

    The cone angle looks different to me? If the angle is different, that’s a big problem.

    60deg taper as far as I’m aware….. i’ll check it though

    Edit:- Yep both measure the same angle. Just the new ones have a longer angle section

    • Like 1
  10. So just got home and took some photos and measurements. 
     

    Old nuts:- 21mm 

    New Nuts:- 25mm

    Unengaged thread is on the new nut is around 3mm.

    All of the old nuts are engaged with the stud so I’ve got 21mm on the new nuts that are engaged so guessing its still ok?

    IMG_3517.thumb.jpeg.8472042ee984f0d07459cf180a75c8ea.jpegIMG_3516.thumb.jpeg.158130bcc70c25e5ee46fe513290ad10.jpegIMG_3519.thumb.jpeg.9126ef5727c5452cbad8b11eede13ba4.jpeg

  11. The wheels are another set of the standard 15” 10spokes. The nuts are around 3-5mm taller than the old ones. When I get home later I’ll take a couple of pictures, everything's easier with pictures. 
     

    I’m not a fan of fitting longer studs as its only a road use 7. The occasional high speed “70mph” and some country lanes. I can’t justify the cost of the longer studs and fitting when I can just put the old nuts back on, although they are tired and tatty.

  12. So I’ve replaced the wheels and tyres on my 2005 CSR and purchased some nice black wheel nuts from Elise Parts as recommended by a member on here. No issue with the quality, but, the new ones are taller than the old ones so I now have spare threads showing on the nut. The stud doesn’t reach all the way to the end of the nut anymore.

    In my mind I still have the same number of threads engaging the stud (as per the shallower original ones) but now the stud is recessed in the nut.

    Is this ok or should I find shallower nuts? 

  13. 7 minutes ago, OldAndrewE said:

    You are very unlikely to come across BSW or BSF on a Caterham. 

    To be honest I didn't even think about that lol. I've always used metric as its what I was taught, so this is a foray into imperial for me that I wasn't expecting 😄 I'm just searching for those specific dimensions then all these options appeared.

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