PlastererPete

Has anyone got instructions on the method of fitting the front wings on a CSR? Currently fitting a new set in conjunction with new wheels/tyres.

I know the rear stay was just stuck on with sealant and obviously the front has the single allen bolt (with penny washer and spring washer) but now I’m fitting a set of ZZS’s so need to modify the wing slightly to make it fit.

I’ve read all the manuals and appropriate supplements I have, but nothing mentions front wing fitting other than the standard wings on an S3. 
 

My thoughts were to elongate the hole for the allen bolt to allow the front of the wing to move up slightly as its already “fag paper” tight on a mock up. Also the rear could do with being moved up so will be elongating the hole where the stay slides through to raise the back edge up aswell. 
 

As for the fitting, is it a case of putting the wing on, then carefully smudging loads of Teroson MS9220 between the wing and stay, fitting the wheel, using spacers on the wheel and taping it down until the “jollop” sets?

Thanks in advance. 

@ducatidentist, I did install one of them but I wasn’t happy with the look. It just didn't suit the car imo. I’m really fussy and the sidelight “bar” was just too thick for me.
 

The installation itself was straight forward, just needed to flatten out the retaining clips a little by hand as the light unit is thicker than the original glass one. 

1 hour ago, Rob Mullan said:

CC are saying they never had a service department.

Strange as my father previously had the CSR serviced at Gatwick and all paperwork, billing address, bank account etc were all labelled “Caterham”. 
As with others on here, he was not impressed with the work and subsequently went elsewhere. I’ll be giving PGM a go as I’ve read on here that there attention to detail is great (which is what I’m all about, both in trade and life). I’m happy to make the 1.5 hour-ish drive if the work they do is good. 

StevehS3, I have various led sidelights in my van and previous daily cars and they haven’t lasted long at all. But the Philips H4 LED headlights in my Transit have been in for 2years and are brilliant.

I’ve just bought some of the “expensive” led sidelights from Classic Cars LEDs to give them a go. I only drive my 7 during the day in the summer months but I intend to run with them on all the time actings as DRLs so wanted something brighter than the Osram Cool Blue ones in there now.

But the aim is to upgrade to the LED headlight units at some point, mainly to give the car a more modern front end. 

Thought I would offer it on here first incase anyone is after one. 
I purchased the 3D printed phone mount and an AMPS phone cradle from ebay for my 7. Stupid me didn’t look to see if the poppers it mounts under were screwed or riveted. Turns out they are riveted and I don’t trust myself drilling them out at that angle close to the windscreen.  
 

£30 posted.

Had a go at the stuck allen bolt after giving it numerous doses of Plusgas (great stuff i wish I had heard of years ago) and after some 15stone careful leverage the bugger, thankfully, undid. 

8 minutes ago, MM7 said:

The info I had from the sole UK distributor is NS 2270 is LHD, NS 2273 is RHD and as fitted by Caterham ,  NS 2271 has straight beam pattern for USA market

Beat me too it. I was just about to edit my post. I found the manufacturer in Taiwan and you’re 100% right. Sorry for the doubt. 

Had a reply from a supplier in germany (via ebay) and apparently the ones they sell are not handed 🤔 they list the “ns 2270”

Never thought about that StevehS3. I think an email is in order to see if they stock the correct ones for the UK. 

Excuse the thread resurrection but I found these while getting lost down a google rabbit hole:-

 https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/headlight-unit-sip-performance-led-round-o-143-mm_57217100

Correct me if I’m wrong but are these not the same as the Caterham ones?

Yea ive got all the manuals and extra paperwork for the CSR specific bits. I read through everything to do with front wings and couldn’t find the answer.

The measurements come up a hair under 19mm length and 7.87mm diameter. I’m assuming its a metric M8 allen head bolt but being a 2005 chassis I wasn’t sure if it would be Imperial. 

Don't say that Sam 😅  I'm already nervous everytime I do something to the car knowing my dad would never have done any work on it himself. 

I'll try the plusgas route, and anything else I can find that might free it. One good thing, is I have all winter to do it 😄

3 minutes ago, Jonathan Kay said:

I recommend using a penetrating fluid such as PlusGas rather than ordinary WD-40,.

Jonathan

I'll grab a can of that tomorrow, only had WD to hand. 

Just need a sanity check please.

I'm replacing the carbon front wings on my 2005 CSR and I've managed to get one of them off this evening. The other one, the allen head bolt does not want to shift, so soaking it in WD40 for a couple of days and praying it doesnt round over 🤞.

Can someone just confirm that it's an M8x20 bolt to fix it to the lower front stanchion?  I'm getting an order together from Accu and wanted to confirm before pulling the trigger.

Thanks all.

That certainly isn’t what I’d expect from a car thats no older than mine I suspect. As Nigel said it could’ve been a bad batch. 
 

If you are ok running the wires through then you can get a whole new headlight shell for £75.

https://www.sevensandclassics.com/online-shop/p/headlamp-shell

Alternatively (if the rust isn’t too deep) maybe just re-powdercoat the bezels?

I emailed George Campbell a couple of days ago, as I had dropped my old clevis’ off to him back in September. Just enquiring if the material analysis results had come back. I got a reply today saying they are “still carrying out their investigations and a general update will be sent out in the coming weeks”. 

I used a DEI exhaust wrap “sock” (for want of a better phrase) on my CSR. It certainly helped the footwell temps for me, which was the main issue I was having during summer driving. It also meant I didn’t have to take the headers/manifold off, just the collector and silencer. 

Same here. Not heard a thing since I dropped my old clevis’ to them and filled in both the questionnaires. They are in the middle of “the big move” from Gatwick though. 

I thought maybe it had something to do with the EU ones having a rear silencer, so pipe routing may be different, hence the kink.

As you can see the new protector is slightly smaller in a couple of dimensions (when the long chassis edge is matched up). Possibly the top hole closest to the car may line up but its not going to be fun when the holes are pretty close to eachother. 

2 hours ago, SamC said:

Pete, it isn’t a big job to take the arch off entirely. It’s a fiddle to work on on the car otherwise.

Interesting to hear about your new protectors not aligning with the arch holes. It’s on my list to do this winter on my CSR too. Sounds like a pain!!

I’ll post a picture later of the difference between the two protectors that are meant to be “the same”

Thanks for the reply John. I’ve got the rivets and new “piping” as part of the set from CC. Just trying to figure out how to get it on the wing and manage to drill the new holes. 

Thanks for the replies chaps. I took the rear silencer off and managed to drill out the rivet with a fairly long drill bit. 

I think I'll have to get creative with the new carbon protectors and rivets. 

Side note, The new ones are a different size to the old ones (I know there is a tall version and standard version). When I bought the new ones from CC I was assured they were the same, now I've got to drill new holes in the rear wings 😕.

Any advice on best method to get the new ones fitted? Its all a learning curve for me after inheriting the car.

Afternoon all,

Hopefully just a quick question. I’m changing the rear wing protectors on my 2005 CSR. To access one of the rivets to drill it out I need to remove the silencer hangar next to the drivers seat. Theres no access behind it (lowered floors and chassis rail). Would it be a captive nut or some similar threaded hole that doesn’t have an associated nut on the back?

Thanks. 
Peter. 

I bought one of the Optimate Solar chargers (10w version) as a “free” way to trickle charge the 7. During summer it was great, winter however even in direct sunlight/daylight it was barely able to keep up with the parasitic loss of the immobiliser. I switched to a standard plug in Optimate 2 which has worked a treat for the past two years.