Kimble

So I went to clean up my exhaust bracket and the bolt sheared off as I was trying to undo it. Does anyone have any advice on what to do here? I'm guessing I need to drill the old bolt out and re-tap the hole or similar.

I'm likely to be selling my leather seats in a few weeks, after I take delivery and install some Tillets. They are from a 2004 SV R400K.

I'll take this Darren. I'll send you a PM.

Thank you all, very useful info.

Yes, I think I'm ok fit wise in a Tillet. I'll go and sit in a few before ordering, that's for sure. Sounds like I might also need to put a lowered floor on the to do list.

Does anyone here know if Tillet seats are lower than the Standard leather seats, if both are mounted on runners? I feel like I sit a bit high in my SV with standard floors and I'm wondering if a seat upgrade I'm saving up for will fix the problem ( I would like to switch from leather to carbon tillets) or if I will need to look at a lowered floor as well. -Neil

There should be a download button in the top right if you are accessing through a web browser.

Is the grill fitted the wrong way round or I am going mad?

So an update that people might find interesting. I couldn't find anything mechanically or electronically wrong with my car and having spent some time looking through the map I just felt it didn't look right. The values in there explained the issues I was experiencing in the car but I just didn't have the experience (or bottle) to start remapping my own pride and joy. Therefore I bit the bullet and booked in for a session with Steve at Track N Road for a mapping session... I got up early yesterday morning and made the drive in the rain from Surbiton to Rainham (round the M25 and the Dartford tunnel). I arrived early and without drama. With some time to kill and conscious about having the required fuel for a mapping session and the journey home I found the local petrol station on Waze and pootled on over. Success! The first station had fuel so I filled the car up and bought a pack of Hob Nobs. Up until this point the rain, although constant, had been quite light. This was all about to change.... In the time I was in the petrol station the heavens well and truly opened. Horizontal rain was now pissing in the half hood gaps so I jumped back in the car and headed on my way. This is where I made a mistake (I should have just waited it out on the garage forecourt). The roughly 2km drive back to Track N Road was awful, the roads were completely flooded and my visibility was close to 0, so much so that I could barely see what must have been a huge puddle about 1 foot deep. You can imagine my horror when a huge tidal wave flooded across the bonnet! Anyway, I made it back to TnR and waited for Steve to arrive which he did shortly after. Now, this is where things got interesting. My car has always started on the button first time with no throttle. This was no longer the case.. In order to get in to the building I had to give it a lot of gas otherwise it would stall. Not good. Steve pretty much instantly spotted the TPS was in fail safe at 15v, it appears that the water had nuked it. Not a great start to the session. After some scrambling around and a few phonecalls for a replacement Steve managed to find an old one that would get us through the day and let us get mapping. I won't go in to all the details but Steve then spent the next what must have been 6-8 hours sitting in the car working through the entire map. A true artist at work with incredible attention to detail and meticulous approach, an endless loop of tweak, test, refine. He said it was 'way out' and some of the behaviours and values that I had been scratching my head about made no sense to him either. The drive home was brilliant, the car is truly transformed. Revs and pulls freely in every gear. You can literally drive the car around in 6th. Some of the pops and whistles have gone but they have been replaced with a raspy and clean revving engine. The best money I have ever spent. I would highly recommend.

Yes, this was me! I was on my way round to Track N Road for a mapping session. I have to admit, the weather could have been better! And for reference, these were the headlights I installed quite recently following a recommendation on here. The price is very good. Probably not the same quality as OEM or JAL but DLR and integrated turn signal. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324806261108?ViewItem=&item=324806261108

Hello! Remember to make sure that the car is warmed up when setting the idle at 1k RPM. I think the adaptive map 'adds a bit of choke'. When I set mine, what is ~1.3k rpm (cold) drops to ~1k warm.

Ok, so as an update. I took a run around the car with the oscilliscope and couldn't find any noisy signals. I also got the correct serial cable and that has given me a very clean capture. The results, which are very similar to before, are below: The moment it hits 3250 it starts to misbehave. I took it to roughly 4k RPM then backed off and reapplied before shutting down.

The serial connector Richard recommended arrived from Amazon. I am happy to report it is rock solid, no dropouts, no noise.

The ebay store took my order, reported 3 day delivery then when I chased they said they didn't have stock and weren't sure when they would have some! I managed to find them in stock on Amazon and have one arriving today. I'll report back on my findings. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00QL16ONE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are normally very close to the steering wheel column. Mine is tucked up behind it (R400K).

I'm not sure what year your car is but, in theory, the later the car the easier it should be. This hassle is mainly related to an old serial interface.

I think you will need this cable as your OBD box won't work: https://www.sbdmotorsport.co.uk/MBE-MAP-LEAD-mapping-lead-for-mbe-serial-based-ecus.html and as James says you will need to connect this to Easimap 5: https://www.sbdmotorsport.co.uk/easimap%205%20software-easimap-5-software.html You then need to connect to a PC. This is where it gets a bit more complicated. Easimap is Win32 so you will need Win XP/7/Vista/10 32 Bit installed, ideally on a laptop with a serial port. If you don't have a serial port then you can use a USB to Serial converter but there are mixed results on these depending on your laptop and the cable. This was recommended (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111598110253) but is currently out of stock although looks to be available here: https://www.startech.com/en-gb/cards-adapters/icusb232d I am currently having some mixed results with this. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00QUZY4UG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Out of interest, where are you based? If you are around Surrey I'm fine for you to come and give my cable a go and see what results you get. Cheers, Neil

Thank you for your guidance (and patience). I'm enjoying the learning process and will continue my investigations!

Thank you Jonathan. I ordered a little pico box last night and it should be here in a few days. In further mapping updates. I managed to get through the pin code and download the firmware and map. Does anyone know the RPM increment or how to get it displayed rather than the max value? I have to say, those 0 values puzzle me at site 9 & 10 but they don't seem to correlate to the ~5.0 site where the problem lies if the Throttle Position Map Site is using the same categorisation.

Thank you for your feedback James. If it's not obvious this is the first time I've come close to engine mapping or diagnostics on this level so I am in full learning mode. I did wonder if the spikes were the root cause but when I looked in to the data the values all appeared to be null so I had put this down to the serial connector instability. The ECU is earthed to the battery and it looked firm. I will hunt down the rest of the earth points and give them a check and order an oscilloscope for my rapidly expanding toolkit. In general I think the car runs fine. It's just this specific rev range (between 3000-4000) where there is what I would describe as a 'dead spot'. The car doesn't pull well during this range, backfires frequently if held in this range and I can hear (from the induction barrels) what sounds like detonation. This dead spot is very obvious in gears 1 through 4 but becomes less noticeable in 5th and 6th. Once I am through the 4k barrier the car pulls like a train. When I look at my graph I find it odd that the ignition advance 'plummets' during the rpm range where I have problems and then jumps back up to what looks like the correct place when we hit ~4k RPM. I would personally expect that graph to continue it's trend through that phase. This trace was taken from me slowly going up the rev range from idle and through the problematic range.

So with the correct config (thank you Richard) and some tweaking of the serial parameters I managed to get some stability. If you can look through the spikes you can see that the Ignition Advance and TPS vs Speed of Ignition seem to change quite dramatically during the rev range where I feel down on power and misfires (3-4k). This has perhaps been made worse running Super Unleaded (increase in backfire). This plot is from just running the car in neutral and this is normally 100% repeatable.. I haven't looked in to mapping yet (I might need the unlock code) but does anyone have any insight on where to start investigation a fix for this? Does it look like a mapping issue? I can't really see how this is mechanical but I am open to all ideas.

I have managed to splice in the serial connector and hook my ECU up via a USB-Serial lead and Win 10 32bit running on Parallels. I have Easimap 5.5 running and it sees the ECU (intermittently) and the data gets plotted but with occasional spikes. This is running the 967bc54f.ec2 file so I was hoping someone might know where I can source the correct ec2 file for my 967bc474 ECU. My hope is this might fix the connectivity issue, then I can work out what is going on between 3k-4k. At the moment my data looks like this so hard to decipher!

Hi All, So the carbon bush in my distributor cap is broken. Does anyone know: The model number for the cap? Is it Lucas Electrical DDB184? Where to get a replacement bush+spring (quickly)? If a new cap comes with a new bush/spring?Thank you once again. I did try a search here and the wider web. -Neil

Thank you, I should have all I need in a couple of days. I'll see what easimap says.

Thank you aerobod, this looks like the right approach. I think I will go and see SBD again.