Kimble

Ok, that would help explain the behavior I have been seeing. Thank you.

Found it. So there's a multi-connector below the roller barrels. In one last time pass round the car checking connections before downing tools for the day I tried squeezing that whist turning the car over. As soon as I did this the engine tried to fire. On closer inspection it looks like a yellow/green wire into this connector wasn't properly seated or clicked in. I gave the connector a bit of a clean and made sure that wire is fitting better. I can totally understand how this would create an intermittent issue and a complete bugger to find. I'll look at the wiring diagram a bit later to work out what that is doing. Thank you everyone for all your assistance.

The plugs are quite wet when I clean them down and then turn the car over. I seem to have a good spark as well. I'm going to hook the PC up and see if there's anything amiss with the TPS. Getting really stumped here :(

I think this is the return line as it has a jubilee clip holding it on and is situated just above the TPS on the roller barrels. The other end, that I tried to take out feels almost glued in and has a proper crimped ending so obviously mean to deal with higher pressure. No change this morning after a charge of the battery. I suspiciously can't hear any whirring from the fuel pump but I'm not sure I have ever really heard anything from the back of the car. I have 12v off all three prongs of at the back of the FIA switch. I'm thinking of dropping the roller barrels off and inserting a piece of paper to to see if the fuel injectors are firing.

Thank you for your help Jonathan. You really do go above and beyond the call of duty here! :) It's the standard banner and very new but I might have drained it a bit with the endless starting attempts. I've left it on charge so will give it another go in the morning as I've given up due to low light. The fuel pump measurement was performed across the pump wires. I assumed it was a + - terminal as I couldn't really see how else it would work. Battery connections all look good. I've taken the crank position sensor off and cleaned it. Does anyone know how to test their function?

Ok, new developments. Car still won't start. Status as of now is: Fuel flows on fuel line (filled an inch in a beer bottle quite quickly and seemed to pulse a little when I turned it over. Piggybacking the fuel pump connected with a meter shows about 10.5v when I try and start. I've taken a spark plug out and there is a spark when I try and turn the car over. If I spray some wd40 in to the roller barrels or a little fuel then the engine fires a little. with a meter on the connector to a fuel injector I can see some voltage spikes when I try and start fuses all look okI'm completely stumped now. I've put the battery on charge now in case I have drained it. It's dropping to around 10.7 when I try and start. All I can think of now is that it's perhaps the crank position sensor. I've tried to clean/jiggle the connector but no change. Any more ideas?

And the problem is back so there is definitely something wrong, my to do list to check is: FIA Master Switch Fuse Connections from/to fuel pumpI'll let you know what I find as no doubt this is a gremlin of some kind.

Should have said: Checked fuses Really strange. I left the car for an hour or so with the fuel line disconnected and fuel started flowing. I can only assume something was wet or had a poor connection and the heat dried it out. Thank you for the assistance.

I was supposed to be going to Brands today but my car won't start this morning. I was wondering if people might be able to help me diagnose. It's a 2004 R400 K-Series. I got caught in a downpour yesterday but the car started a few hours later and started ok this morning but then stopped after a few seconds, I can only assume through lack of fuel. Car whirs and clicks after ignition. I'm pretty sure I have ignition as some wd40 in the RB's seems to ignite. I have dried plugs in case there was any water ingestion from yesterday. Disconnected the fuel line and there is no fuel being delivered. I know my cut off switch has been a bit temperamental lately but my understanding is that if the immobilizer/switch is failing then that will kill the injectors and not the pump/fuel line. I have pressed inertia switch and cleaned/checked the crank position sensor. Battery is new and charged. Now I would assume the fuel line to be flowing when I try and turn the car over so this is current point of focus. Can anyone give me any pointers?

That was a great day. Amazing to be on the full GP circuit. I was in the Grey and yellow r400.

Being the eternal optimist I liked to think the rain was helping to clean the mud off the car!

Yes, thank you to the team for organising and great to meet a few of you and your cars. Also apologies to the two members at the garage that followed me back down a shitty single track. My sat nav gave me a bum steer. -Neil (Grey with Yellow Striped R400K)

I don't login for a few days and I miss this :(

I was in the Grey/Yellow SV going the other way! Lovely day for it.

I managed to fix this by swapping the wires that go to the new ignition switch. I was obviously bypassing the immobiliser. I would love to spend a bit more time on the wiring and tidying it all up as it is quite confusing under the dash. One day I will take the panel off and have a good inspection. Suffice to say, this work and the echo location of the indicator buzzer whilst inverted in a tillet seat has taken it's toll on an already dodgy back!

Sorry I should have provided more info, it's a 2004 K-Series R400 SV. MBE ECU and what I guess is the standard immobiliser with little black key fob. I ran the white & green line directly to the switch and merged the other two as per the diagrams I have seen. I also have an FIA Isolator so a lot of the diagrams didn't seem to make sense. From memory I think the other wires were brown and black but I can't be sure now. I'll need to check tomorrow.

So, I bypassed the ignition key today and installed a protected starter switch. All went well but it seems that I no longer need to use my immobiliser to start/drive the car. It's as if I have successfully hot wired a car with an immobiliser. I wired joined two connectors from the back of the ignition together and connected it to one of the switch points, the other one I just directly linked. Does anyone have any ideas where I might have gone wrong?

They sell the sleeves as individuals, just ordered one. Thanks again.

Thank you Stu. I can see what you mean now. That's going to save me a few quid!

This is on my R400k SV. Has anyone ever experienced similar? I obviously need to repair, unsure whether to have them all renovated by Bilstein or replacing with something else (Nitrons?).

It looks like it has been extended to either reduce the slack in the (wrong?) cable or perhaps as a part of a pedal positioning modification that has been 'reverted'. e.g. Someone has put a bracket on the throttle mount point to move the attach point lower, causing the cable to foul on it's path down.

Adding some images

2x Leather Seats for an SV. Out of a 2004 car with 14k miles so used condition. Come with runners attached. £300 for the pair Based near Surbiton in Surrey.

Thanks for all the tips. I ended up drilling it out as it was so seized it was almost welded in. Went through 4 drill bits in the process. Will patch it all up and re-mount the exhaust tomorrow.

Thank you Jonathan, I have it soaking now. I can't see or feel anything on the other end. It's very low down, just above the floor. On the inside skin it is close, but not connected to, the seatbelt fixings. This is a 2004 R400 SV.