arthur rayner

22 Absolutely brilliant....well done...thanks very much...I have never seen one of these strap hole finder devices before, how amazing! I've been building aluminium bodies for a decade or more and had to do it the hard way...hit & miss...wow, just about to buy one now on ebay. Life is worth living after all! Many thanks indeed. Arthur

Similar, but the ref no on them is 110316. Anyway I've ordered 3 micro relays from Caterham and presumably those they sell are identical to those in my 160 Sprint. Arthur

That relay you showed, is a square relay and those in the box on my 160 Sprint are rectangular, but definitely show 110316 on them, all three.

Yes, all the micro relays, the first 3 of which upwards in the box, are: Fuel pump, rad fan, headlights. Initially the fuel pump wasn't working and engine not starting, so I took out the pump relay, substituted it with the rad fan one and engine wouldn't start, then put head lamp relay into rad fan slot, and engine started. Then put what I thought was a dud relay into the headlamp slot, and headlamps worked dipped and main beam when switched, thus it seems that after all, all three relays worked, which was odd, since initially the fuel pump wasn't. Now, with pump, rad fan and lights all working, all three relays must be OK, however, I now have an orange engine check light on permanently...so what is happening? All of the three relays are 110316 type and marked as such, and I bet that the other three are as well. Arthur

Any idea as to stockists please? Caterham parts show a micro relay but a different reference? The 110316 seems to be the universal relay for fuel pump, headlights, fan. Pump wasnt working first thing, so eventually (what a bastard ) I got the cover off the relay/fuse box and pulled all micro relays, noting the pump one first, swapped them all about, and it then worked...so out for a spin. What a stupid place to put relays/fuses etc...why not under the bonnet where there's space in front of air box....what clowns these people are! Arthur

What ho all Is there another one in Ditchling as well as mine...seen a 2nd Camberwick Green 160 in Bull car park and wondered if it is local? How many of the L/E Sprint were painted this colour, any ideas anyone? Arthur

Thanks for that. I did approach Arch motors many years ago. They brazes all the original Seven chassis, and they would have been too expensive I suspect.

Hello all Well, this might be a bloody daft request, but I'm after ideas, so here goes! I'm 66 this week, and have cancer, which is under control. I've been building Morgan styled three wheelers at www.aerocyclecars.com for some 12 years or more now. My chassis building man, a friend who is a blacksmith extraordinaire...has just had his left leg amputated due to diabetes, and will be out of the frame for months, if not a year perhaps, so between us, or at least I am...up the proverbial creek without the bleedin' obvious. I could just wind up the business or sell it, but don't really want to let it go. In reality I'd sooner "give it away" in order to set someone up in a business of a kind, or an adjunct to another existing business. There are similarities to our Lotus/Caterham chassis and mine (one wheel excepted of course!), so it occurs to me that perhaps within our coterie, might be just a suitable person, who is skilled, perhaps local in Sussex, (Ditchling) who might like a bit of a challenge, either joining me in some shape or form, or whatever. In reality, if I'm to continue even in a very small way, I need someone highly skilled in mig welding and perhaps tig, who could weld up my chassis. Any ideas will be gratefully listened to, and somewhere out in the ether might be the ideal person?! I have punted the idea out to my local agricultural college (Plumpton) to see if their welding/automotive depts might have ideas or someone looking for such an avenue...nothing forthcoming at present though.

Anybody selling one of these Minno Shuttle covered trailers? regards Arthur

Hi all On my recently purchased Seven Sprint 160, with just 325 miles on the clock (2017 model), the engine check light suddenly came on, and the idle speed will not decrease below 2000rpm, sometimes 2500rpm, which is absurd! I've reported it back to the dealer as I've only had the car for just over 1 week, so expect to hear from them after Tuesday, but any ideas as to what the problem is? I ought not to touch it, being that it is effectively so new, but I'd like to know what it is anyway, presumably just a sensor perhaps? Carbs, I can deal with, but ultra modern electronic systems have a mind of their own. regards Arthur

Ah but this is a real Morgan, 1933 "Noddy" car, 990cc Matchless engine, hand throttle, front brakes actuated by handbrake, rear by footbrake (pretty useless), no mirrors yet, but not been on road either. First run should be to Plough pub at Plumpton next week, assuming that someone doesn't decimate us by hurtling up our chuff en-route...the bastards, or even a lycra clad cyclist overtakes us at 40mph!

We used to go to a restaurant in Lewes and they had a figure on a cabinet that reminded me of Windy Miller, trouble was he was covered in blood, so had committed a serious crime...I thought WM was a decent chap, not a psychopath! The Sprint is a superb looking car, I like it, but then I'm a fool for the vintage look, the red dash, the bulbous wings, the reflections in the back of the headlights, all felt good to me. So much easier to drive than my 1933 Morgan Family, and my 34 MG PA with crunching gears, but what the hell. The purchases through GP Sevens was very good, they seem a decent bunch! Arthur

Remember that?! I'm picking up my Camberwick Green Sprint tomorrow, just 135 miles on the clock. I traded in my basic 160, so looking forward to a retro beast...well a slow one, but seriously good enough for me. Hope it doesn't pee down tomorrow in Kent back to Ditchling, as the thought of that bloody hood and getting in/out fills me with fear!!

Just came across this post. I have a half mated HD 1340 Evo engine to a Moto Guzzi gearbox, must get back to it all very soon, ideally for one of my 3 wheelers, but could sound good in a Caterham....perhaps....perhaps not! Arthur

Hi Simon Are you saying that the standard steel wheels on a 160 are Peugeot 107/Toyota Aygo? I'm trying to get a new steel wheel for a spare and apparently GP Sevens are saying that Caterham are unable to supply one. if so perhaps i can go this route? Arthur

Led Zeppelin II, what an album, I still crank this up loudly in my workshop. Even been to the Zeppelin museum at Friedrichshafen on Lake Constance, well worth a visit.

Yes I do this all of the time each start. It is the intermittent bit that gets me though, always the worst. Mustn't jump to conclusions too early, must clearly be a simple electrical fault as gauges do fire up eventually, but as you've mentioned, when it doesn't immediately fire and hold, could be the fuel pump relay. Got to look for that now! Arthur

No sure why it uploaded 4 times, sorry!

Hi all My car has only 3500 miles on the clock, and today I ran it the hottest so far, up to 6K revs, not constantly. Shut it down, then went to re-start after a couple of minutes, and on one occasion after 10 mins, and the gauges would not run to deflection, and the engine wouldn't at first start. This seemed to be an electrical fault perhaps to a sensor? It did finally start on both occasions, but the rev counter was slow to "fire up". Any ideas? I'll keep it under observation, but today was the longest runs it has been out and up to 70mph. I also noticed that the alarm on the key sensor was slow to activate, and maybe this is/was the intermittent problem? Arthur

Hi all My car has only 3500 miles on the clock, and today I ran it the hottest so far, up to 6K revs, not constantly. Shut it down, then went to re-start after a couple of minutes, and on one occasion after 10 mins, and the gauges would not run to deflection, and the engine wouldn't at first start. This seemed to be an electrical fault perhaps to a sensor? It did finally start on both occasions, but the rev counter was slow to "fire up". Any ideas? I'll keep it under observation, but today was the longest runs it has been out and up to 70mph. I also noticed that the alarm on the key sensor was slow to activate, and maybe this is/was the intermittent problem? Arthur

Hi all My car has only 3500 miles on the clock, and today I ran it the hottest so far, up to 6K revs, not constantly. Shut it down, then went to re-start after a couple of minutes, and on one occasion after 10 mins, and the gauges would not run to deflection, and the engine wouldn't at first start. This seemed to be an electrical fault perhaps to a sensor? It did finally start on both occasions, but the rev counter was slow to "fire up". Any ideas? I'll keep it under observation, but today was the longest runs it has been out and up to 70mph. I also noticed that the alarm on the key sensor was slow to activate, and maybe this is/was the intermittent problem? Arthur

Hi all My car has only 3500 miles on the clock, and today I ran it the hottest so far, up to 6K revs, not constantly. Shut it down, then went to re-start after a couple of minutes, and on one occasion after 10 mins, and the gauges would not run to deflection, and the engine wouldn't at first start. This seemed to be an electrical fault perhaps to a sensor? It did finally start on both occasions, but the rev counter was slow to "fire up". Any ideas? I'll keep it under observation, but today was the longest runs it has been out and up to 70mph. I also noticed that the alarm on the key sensor was slow to activate, and maybe this is/was the intermittent problem? Arthur

Just waiting for you to suggest that one! Marvellous, will do so! Even better then with socket button heads as rounded. Arthur

Theoretically you are supposed to have 2 threads protruding even with nylocks. Will try inverting them anyway. Arthur

Checked today, definitely lowered floor pans, daft thing is the bolts could be upside down and the nuts inside but might be tight to get a socket on as 8mm. I would have thought that 6 6mm bots would have sufficiently held the runners in rather than 4 x 8mm. Crud under the seat so well worth pulling out to clean.