ben2

Hi Just to tie this up, I recharged the battery and took the car to a local mechanic, who did a number of tests and confirmed the alternator (well rectifiers) were shot. We checked all earths and and the voltage at 3000 rpm, and it was well down at 11v or so. To change the alternator I did have to take the exhaust and primarys off. Access to the alternator bolts is a bit of a pain and I had checked that the new alternator had the adjustment screw hole fully threaded (it wasn't) before fitting the new one. Quite straightforward, took around an hour. Thanks for the help and advice Mark

Hi Yesterday my 2004 K series 1800 SV developed some interesting electric problems. firstly when I started it there was no ignition light. Later at some traffic lights the ignition light came on but cleared shortly after that. When I got to work, switched the lights on and the car died. Battery dead and car wouldn't start. We restarted the car with jump leads and measured the alternator voltage across the terminals and it was 11.55v. I arranged a lift home curtesy of the RAC (they were brilliant, BTW), and have bought a new alternator. Before I get the spanners out, it looks mighty tight to get the alternator out. So couple of questions: - is the randomness of the ignition light to be expected with a failed alternator - will the alternator drop out from underneath - I've got an Apollo tank so can't go forward, or do I have to take the exhaust manifold off too? Thanks Mark

Hi Mankee The prop was sent back to Bailey Morris in St Neots. Do they make them for Caterham? The guy who rebuilt the engine organised it, he took a picture when it came back and it looked like brand new, completely repainted etc. It certainly doesn't click when you roll the car back and forth, which it was before, but I have only done about 10 miles around town in the since I collected it yesterday, it seems OK so far :-) Cheers Mark

Hi I thought I would give you an update on this, as I got the car back yesterday. I went for the basic upgrade of fitting a VVC head, loom and ECU, sticking with the standard pistons. When the engine was out the bottom end was stripped and checked, the liners were a little oval, but in tolerance, so we refitted them. Other upgrades we did whist the car was apart was to refurbish and rebalance the propshaft, change the clutch release bearing (clutch was like new) and fit a silicone hose set as the originals were 10 years old. Initial impressions are good, at higher revs the cars performance dropped off significantly before, but now it takes off and you can really feel the VVC having an effect. Looking forward to doing some miles in it over Christmas. The only downside I can see at the moment is the VVC cam is quite noisy at tickover. I'm told TADTS, and this seems to be the subject of many other threads. I'll see how I get on... Does the old 1800 standard head, ECU and coils packs have any value? I will put them up in the for sale section at some point but have no idea of what to pitch them at? Finally a quick note of thanks to everyone who offered advice, its much appreciated. Cheers Mark

Hi I have just had my prop done. I work with someone who builds race cars, his comment was he would only rebuild a propshaft if it was the only way to get the car back in the race that day...otherwise always get it repaired and rebalanced professionally. I sent mine to Bailey Morris in St Neots (well the guy rebuilding my engine did) to have new UJ's fitted, rebalanced and painted. I think the cost was over £100, but for piece of mind and all that. Cheers Mark

Hi Firstly thank you for your comments. The original plan was to go for around 160hp, so the original pistons would work, however having read some of the posts it loks like forged pistions would be the way to go whilst the engine is stripped. I'm trying to keep the costs sensible! Mankee - the I'm convinced the knocking sound is a sticky tappet (which hasn't really got any worse over the last 3000 or so miles) The guy who is going to do the engine work for me thinks its piston slap (however this was a a brief play with then engine whilst static and warm). Either way head and pistons should sort. We ought to meet up sometime, tea and buscuits always welcome. Nick I sent you a blat mail ref the Jenveys and pistons.. Thanks for your help Mark

Hi I own a 2004 Roadsport SV, supposedly producing around 140 hp. The engine has a slight knock when its cold, so its time for a bit of upgrading! I'm planning to VVC it by fitting a VVC head (along with associated ECU and wiring loom modification) which should give around 160hp (obviously the engine will be inspected and new pistions and liners fitted if required.) Has anyone done this and is this a reasonable approach to getting a bit more power? Thanks Mark

Hi I have just put my up S3 for sale 2004 S3 Car is an ex mega-grad car which was extensively refurbished in 2012 including chassis check and reskin at Arch, respray plus loads of new parts, including gearbox, lights, weather gear etc. etc. Only selling as I purchased an SV If only I could keep 2! Cheers Mark Car now sold! Edited by - ben2 on 17 Mar 2014 22:55:34 Edited by - ben2 on 17 Mar 2014 22:56:18

Hi Quick update CF dash and 1/2 doors sold subject to payment. Thanks Mark

Hi Richard Reply sent via BM Cheers Mark

I have a few parts which are surplus following the rebuild of my car last year - aluminium fuel filler - it's the Sevenspeed version, was fitted to the car for a couple of months. Included is all screws, plus filler neck, may need a new o ring £50 - Stainless steel tax disc holder - the one Caterham offers. Never fitted, still in original packaging £15 - Carbon dash to suit S3 Imperial chassis. Pre cut with all gauges. Never fitted £75 - 1/2 doors - a bit scruffy with cut outs to suit full roll cage. £20 for the pair. - 13 " Spal fan - it's a bit beaten up but works, £20 Note delivery cost is not included in the above prices, buyer to collect from Colchester or will send at cost. If you have any questions, please BM me, thanks Mark

Hi On mine it was one of the spade terminals in the relay base has pushed back. Once reseated solved the problem. Good luck Mark

Hi Try Horkesley Garage in Great Horkesley. On the Colchester to Sudbury Road. They were very accommodating when they did mine last year including doing the rear pads and sorting the non functioning indicators. The brake test on road was erm interesting. Cheers Mark

Hi Everyone Thank you all for your replies. The winner is ashaughnessy! Pulled the fuse/relay block off, and found the earth wire on the flasher relay was pushed back. 10 seconds later flashing lights! As a bonus car passed it's MOT this morning, happy days! Thanks again Mark

Hi I was wondering if anyone can help. My indicators were working (as were the hazards) but now only the hazards work. Form reading the forums and talking to a few people the hazard warning switch is normally the culprit, however switch is new, and I have replaced it again, with another new one. No combination of switching has any effect, the hazards work, but the indicators don't. I took the indicator switch apart and that is functioning fine too, so I'm stumped. Any ideas of things to check - cars going for MOT tomorrow morning.... Thanks Mark

Thanks Ian As the car was re-skinned I need to fit the hood/boot cover poppers on the back panel next...I'll use the hood as a template. Then I can fit the boot cover, harnesses and seats and drive it for the first time...(if only it were that simple...) Thanks again Mark

Hi Would someone mind ambling to their imperial chassised car and measure the distance between the hood strap fixing screws? The pre drilled holes were covered over when the car was re panelled hence the question Thanks in advance Mark

Hi RJ The nuts turned up today - they are basic plated thin hex nuts. All fitted in a few minutes. Cheers Mark

Hi Thanks for the replies - ordered a couple from SVC this morning. £4 each plus VAT, not cheap though! Thanks again Mark

Hi Does anyone know where I can source a couple of wiper spindle nuts. Caterham don't sell them and not quite sure best place to look. Thanks for you help Mark

Hi Making progress on the rebuild, engine in and running! Once again I am after some measurements to help with positioning. It's for an imperial S3 a) positions of the poppers for the hood/boot cover on the rear/side of the car. I can see the positions from photos but want to get it right. b) position of the hood strap fixings inside the back rail of the car c) position if the front exhaust bracket mounting hole - it was covered when it was reskinned! Thanks in advance for your help Mark

Hi Martin When mine was reskinned in the last couple of months there were virtually no holes - I even had to ask for the exhaust hole to be cut! Makes fitting all the lights and wings interesting! Cheers Mark

Hi Thanks for all the replies. I'll sort the boot out at the weekend, and get busy with the drill on the rear wings. Following Steves comments on the dash I was thinking I might use rivnuts in the holes where the poprivets used to go, with some button head allen screws or similar to hold it in place. Pierson - we are near Nayland - if you are passing let me know - its much easier working things out from an actual car than pictures (thanks for the measurements!) Thanks again Mark

Hi Thanks for the replies so far - the firesafe sealant looks like it may be best, although the tape option may be worth a go too. Its an ex race car being converted back to the road, but would prefer stuff in the boot staying dry! Anyone able to help on fixing the dash or rear tail lights positions? Thanks Mark

Hi I am in the process of rebuilding an ex race car and have a few questions which I am hoping you may be able to help me with:- a) Boot floor - how is the edge between the honeycomb boot floor and the rear scuttle sealed - is it just a case of some sealant or is there a more elegant solution? b) Carbon dash - I am replacing the dash with a carbon one - what is the best method of attaching it - has anyone tried gluing it in postion successfully rather than original pop rivets? c) could someone measure the position of their rear lights - I can guess but would be nice to have some measurements as a guide (its a 2004 imperial chassis) before I drill into my freshly painted wings. Thanks in advance for your help Mark