Bob_Rich

Hi I believe it is a 5/16" UNC bolt if it is the one that also shares the strap fixing with water pump securing bolt. Length is around 2"

Looks like Miss Tweaky is sorted but another idea to keep in mind is to keep ( or get hold of) the little silica gel dessicants that are frequently packed in with electronic items such as Radios and Ipods etc. Dry the dessicant bag on a radiator or boiler overnight then pop it in the back of the lamp leave a couple of days ( avoid using lights if possible) and that should blot up the moisture OK. As the other posters said look for the source of the leak after you have dried it out. Condensation can corrode reflector and may lead to an MOT failure

Steve provide me with a 1600 crossflow for my rebuild of a 1969 Lotus 7. He was very helpful a great guy to chat too and also knows a lot about sevens generally and very willing to offer advice and support. Would recommend him without question for seven stuff.

You can get clear tape from most motor factors that will cover the crack and seal it against water ingress. The issue on the MOT I believe is corrosion of the reflector. The family hack a Ford fiesta has passed the MOT for the last 4 years with such a tape

I have freed up a sticky caliper by removing the pads and pushing the piston right back into the caliper(dont put force on the disc use a small engineers clamp or a proper caliper resetting tool) Then operate the brakes to move the caliper back out ( back to its normal position plus perhaps a mm or so) repeat a couple of time. Mine caliper occasionally does this if left a couple of weeks without use. moving the piston a few times usually does the trick

I have twice had a problem of idling and low power OK but stuttering as power demand is increased. One time it was the fuel pump. Delivery could not keep up because the diafram had a leak and got progressively worse until it would only do 30mph in 3rd. The second one was the rotor arm in the distributor. Over the years the voltage had broken down and was flashing to the distributor body. At light load a low voltage spark will light the mixture OK and not break down the rotor arm but as the throttle opening was increased the spark voltage need to rise and then it jumped to the distributot frame and again the car would only limp along at around 20mph in 2nd. You may need a magnifier to look at the rotor arm as the track left can be very fine --only a few thou diameter, Both are easy to sort hope it is not anything worse hope thius helps cheers

I think the terminals you want are called bullets. Vehicle Wiring Products Catalogue page 19 2006/7 does a range. If you want to split off one wire to an instrument put the bullet on that then the matching socket would take all the other wires. I used them on my instrument lights and they are fine. The colour code determines the wire size

what about a plumbing copper fitment usually used for soldering central heating pipes. One for a 28mm main pipe with a 15mm T off and end feed type or a Yorkshire. woulld be copper of course

Thanks 4 the reply. Burtons do have both types but the flat faced one (HD3257) has an ID of around 35mm and will not fit the release bearing carrier. They dont appear to do a carrier or an adaptor. I am really looking for conformation that a round bearing can be used with curly finger clutch or is there a alterntaive carrier out there?

I am rebuilding a 1969 series 3 seven. 711m engine by Steve Parker, 2000E gear box, and Hydraulic clutch. The new clutch has "curly fingers" and so should, apparently, be used with a flat release bearing. Burtons do, in size terms, the exact bearing an HD3259 38.25mm bore 68mm OD Depth 15.75mm this is however a round faced bearing. Any one know where an equivilant flat faced bearing can be found? nose of the gear box (over which the bearing carrier slides) is 30.3mm. Would it be OK to use the round bearing with the curly fingers clutch?? use is road and odd track day.

I am rebuilding a series 3 seven and will be using a sprint spec 711M engine that has the Lucas AB14-48039A ignition with a PCB198 coil. Has anyone got any info on the electrical interface beteeen the distributor (marked 41964-59DM4 0606) and the module? circuit diagrams , waveforms or WHY. I want to test the sytem before trying to run up the engine.