22daz

I recently had an F225 conversion on my 420R by Stuart at Premier Power. Part of the brief was to fit an oil to water heat exchanger. From what I've learnt, the oil cooler on a 420R is cooling from the moment you set off with a cold engine, meaning the oil will take a long time to warm up as it is not controlled by a thermostat like coolant is. Then the oil cooler is too effective once driving, so the oil temperature sits at a very low 65 degrees. Since having a temperature gauge and heat exchanger fitted, my oil is up to 80 degrees in literally a few mins. Certainly by the time I leave the village, and 90-95 degrees normally on the road. On a track when the oil becomes hot it works the other way, where the water actually cools the oil. You can see this happening on the gauges and it's quite impressive. The advice I took, was to cover up the oil cooler on the road and carefully monitor oil temps. I would say both an oil to water heat exchanger and a temperature gauge are money very well spent.

10% from what I've heard but lovely genuine guys to deal with. Remember they have to prep, service, fix and warranty it. Best to call them really.

You might also want to consider a smaller one for the squirter.. just incase you get a bit punchy one day. The MOT tester will almost certainly thank you for it.

My bad.. I thought you meant DVA of West Yorkshire parish, to take it to. Maybe I skim read it.. Congrats on the Geography thing anyway. Daz

What is the smallest trailer I can fit my S3 onto? I'm probably looking at buying a new one and the ones with folding hitches don't seem available any more. I have a double garage but it isn't overly long, as in the A frame to towball might not fit. What alternate storage options are there? Daz

Not West Yorkshire though Ian. Oily DVA is in Milton Keynes, Dave Gemzoe is in West Yorkshire. Different parishes. Daz

Ian, I think you have the wrong Dave. It's Dave Gemzoe that lives in West Yorkshire of Gemzoe Motorsport which has a different webpage. Daz

Carbon Mods used to do them but stopped. As far as I know David Lale is the only place that makes them now at Classic Carbon. I suspect they’ll be better quality too.

I did this conversion last year on my old car, unfortunately I need to repeat it again now. By process of elimination the braided hose that comes down to the 3 way from the transmission tunnel it has a lock nut on it. Consensus is that these lock nuts aren't required as the tighter you make it, the more it will want to pull the connector away from the 3 way. I used it and lightly nipped it up rather than leant on it.

3. Occasional Clunk Have you checked the anti roll bar droplinks for tightness or play? Removing them and greasing the ball joints keeps them quiet and they last a lot longer too. It only takes 1/4 of a turn to allow them to move and knock. It could be when the car squats under acceleration. I have an occasional clunk on my 420R as an inner rear brake pad sometimes rattles over bumps. They have yet to bed in properly though. Also check that the boot floor is secure.

I replaced all of my brake pipes last year as it was ex-academy and as a consequence, some of them were not as neat as I would have liked. The kit I borrowed had various flare ends. It's just a matter of finding one the same and a bit of trial and error to make the perfect bubble. It's a steep learning curve so you will pick it up quickly, just remember that the one that came out will have deformed slightly. The only one that was flared differently is where the rear brake pipe stops on the chassis above the rear diff. That was a double flare from memory.

Any polish/wax is essentially filling the fine washing scratches that dull the shine over the years. Over time as you wash this layer away it will need polishing again. My advice would be to buy a rotary polisher and remove the scratches completely, then use polish to protect. That will give you a shine that lasts years without doing much else. Having a metallic, there will be a decent thickness of clear coat and a polisher will only remove the top few percent of that.. unless you're particularly heavy handed. I have a Silverline and for the money (£65) it has done a top job on all of my cars.

Also bear in mind that they can be staggered by one hole to give you a finer adjustment between the 4 settings.

Any luck yet John?

I was worried about the oil level on my 420R and would also recommend the CC dry sump tank dipstick. It is integrated into a new cap, is well made and has a hot - cold level marker on it. It isn't cheap at around £70 but that is considerably less expensive than the alternative. Money well spent I would say..

CSP899LC is the part number for Duratec decat

Staggered 13" Apollos gloss black with ZZS. Not sure why he needed an SV though.

Changed to carbon 4 x wings in excellent condition. Includes carbon stone guards and piping. Not really any stone chips, just the odd small mark from storage. Collection Leeds/York or I travel to Snetterton weekly could meet enroute. £150

I'm not sure mine is quite that bad but it's the same noise I got by rocking the car forward and back an inch. I think mine are the inside pads which are now the last ones to bed in as I still have 50% honing on the inner face of the rear discs. Thanks for sharing the vid!

That's probably it Chris, not much of a job to put a bit of pre-load into those. I intend to put some braided hoses on the calipers as I did on my last car, but that will keep me happy for the moment especially if it stops the knocking.

Rocking the car backwards and forwards by a few inches I could hear a click coming from the inner rear pad. These are the ones that are least bedded in so warrants further investigation when I get a mo.. I will have a look to see if I can do anything with the tension.

They are Delphi pads too Chris and still well within the "bedding in" process! I'll have a look at them as this seems well within the realms of possibility.

That's sounds similar as I can't pin it down to a particular side. The fronts make a noise as the pins rattle going over bumps so it could something similar on the back whilst they are still bedding in. I swapped the rear copper pipe for braided braided hose a couple of weeks before I sold my old car but that's a fairly easy job for you. Although I'm not sure if you can get longer ones for an SV from CC as my S3 were already a tight fit for length.

2018 420R with 1000 miles I get a knocking noise coming from the boot over bumps which my previous 7 never did. It seems marginally better with a passenger (as in not doing it as frequently) but I can't seem to find it. It sounds like the boot floor is loose but it isn't.. I have looked for anything like the fuel pipe tapping on the underside of the boot floor and secured the handbrake cables. Greased the ball joints in the drop links Everything obvious seems tight, it isn't the hood sticks or washer bottle. I have put neoprene all around the boot floor and secured it. Neoprene underneath where it is close to the diff. Any ideas of what else I can try?