22daz

If you're revving to 8250 I would consider the R500 timing chain tensioner modification if you haven't already. Removing the ratchet and replacing with a bolt to adjust tension more accurately and prevent backlash (timing misalignment) when coming off the power at high revs. It still uses oil pressure to tension the chain but the 'stop' is more finely adjustable. 22daz

I would guess that is a clutch release bearing failing. Check the fluid level first. But it's likely the engine will need to come out to fully diagnose. 22daz

Have you checked the wiring from the battery to the starter motor recently? When I had my K series it became very crispy and snapped when I bent it due to the heat from the manifold. 22daz

Rotating the rack a tiny bit isn't critical as the tie rods that come out of it are on a ball joint. The track rod end is itself is also a ball joint. The most important part now is getting the wheel alignment correct. Your tyres will be fine for a short journey like that in such a light car. 22daz

I think that's a bit harsh. I bought my first Seven to learn about this sort of thing and you learn by trial and error. Add a 2mm spacer, realign myself take it for a spin. Is it better? Add another spacer.. Etc He's already said it has much improved how it drives, so that in itself is safer than Caterhams original offering. I'm sure he could have taken it to DPR and thrown a wad of money at it, but that's surely missing the point. The satisfaction of sorting something like this yourself is off the scale compared to not knowing how or why and handing over a cheque. 22daz

Just to add, I have the Mazda box and have never noticed any chatter. However changing to Redline had made it far nicer to use and much less notchy. I concur that it has definitely got better with miles as I thought there was something wrong with it initially. Now after 2 oil changes plus the original oil and still well under 5k, it is becoming delightful to flick through the gears. 22daz

I managed to do this by splitting both a clear and standard set. I think they look better and as my red brake light bulb showed pink on MOTs it was constantly scraping through. It does take lots of patience but can be done. The two halves are glued and slot together. The reflector part sticks over the join. 22daz

Basically to simplify without doing lots of research.. The idea of alleviating bump steer is to make the top wishbone, bottom wishbone and steering arm all follow the same arc upward and inwards as you hit a bump with one wheel. Otherwise as the fixed top and bottom wishbone move up, they force the steering arm across giving kickback on the steering wheel. If you can make all 3 closely follow the same trajectory by altering the position (height) of the steering rack, you hit the bump and nothing happens to the steering. That's the theory.. 22daz

I had this on my previous car (2007) and it felt like it was continually driving me off the road. I tried lots and lots of different geometry settings before I tackled it, but in the end it was bump steer. I raised the steering rack by 6mm with 3x 2mm deep aluminium shims I made underneath each side of it. Then I adjusted the wheel alignment back to where it was. Afterwards I could literally steer with one finger and it transformed the car! The generally accepted amount is to raise it by 9mm and that's what the newer deeper Caterham steering rack mounts do. However my old car was ex academy so might have had a new front end on it at some point hence it only needed 6mm. Newer cars don't tend to suffer from this as much, if at all. 22daz

I bought some from eBay when I fitted my cage. Not expensive. Seat belt bolt caps 17mm AF hex head 22daz

Great news Bob, I've the same setup. Glad you got it sorted.

When I changed my front pads to DS2500, the difference in performance was much improved. After a 20 mile drive there was finally some brake dust on the front wheels, I could lock the wheels easily, which I never could. However I still didn't have the firm pedal I desired. I realised that the rear pads had been overcompensating the lacklustre fronts and wearing excessively. Surprisingly they were almost down to to backing plate. I quickly changed them for similar pads which restored the pedal feel (I needed them quickly for a track day). I have replaced the rears now for DS2500 which I have all round now. If your front pads are AP DS25HP, which is likely, then I would recommend trying this route before reverting to an inferior (standard) master cylinder. 22daz

Bob and Carol, With you having the 4 pot brakes and assuming you have a firm pedal, I don't think the issue you have is with the master cylinder. I had exactly the same problem with my new 420R and it was down to the material of the AP-DS25HP standard pads Caterham supply the 4 pot kit with. When I removed them after 4000 miles and a couple of track days they had only lost 0.1mm in wear and my front wheels never got dusty. In fact I was pressing the brake so hard, I wore the rear pads away first! I could never lock the front up. I believe the AP calliper is from a Lotus which requires harder compound pads, however the Caterham isn't heavy enough to get them to work. Swap them for Ferodo DS2500 for around £90 and see how you go. You will often see brand new DS25HP for sale, there's a reason for that. 22daz

I never charge my Banner but do have a cut off key which I use whenever the car isn't in use. 8 years, 2 years and the odd slow start after 18 months are my 3 experiences. I bought one ready to swap the other day for £77 and they are simple to replace.

I thought the same, it looks a bit like the Grand Tour car. it has been up for sale a while now.

Have a look on Pistonheads classified. There's a grey 270R for £30995 with 200 miles on it which has wider tyres on the back. Maybe that will make up your mind. 22daz

There are a lot of people very happy with the comfort of the Bilstein and Eibach combination in conjunction with standard fitment Avon ZZS. These are the tyres which have specifically been developed with the light weight of a Caterham in mind. Although it may not be what you want to hear, using Nankang which are a very heavy tyre with a stiff sidewall may not in itself be helping you find the ride comfort you are looking for. They are more of a tin top tyre designed to carry more weight. This could be leading you down the path of saving on tyres but spending even more on suspension trying to counteract the stiffer sidewall and additional unsprung mass.. I've no doubt there will be plenty of retailers out there willing to help you spend it though. You're welcome to do whatever you choose, but I thought I'd mention that incase it wasn't obvious. 22daz

Last year I had a Premier Power F225 conversion done by Stuart on my Duratec. This was with the ULW clutch and flywheel which is being discussed above. The clutch pedal is definitely heavier as is the throttle pedal actuating four throttle bodies instead of one. That makes all the pedals feel very well balanced. The new clutch has a more positive feel than the standard Mondeo/Fiesta light action. Much more motorsport. The clutch pedal is firm, the brake (should be) firm, and there is a bit more weight in the balljoint throttle linkage that Stuart fits on the accelerator pedal. Driving the car, it all feels more special for having it. After a few miles you'll really start to appreciate how everything works together rather than it being random separate parts. I never notice the weight now until I jump in it after a period of driving the daily. What you do notice is how quickly the revs pile on and also how eager it is to blip when heel and toeing. There is also more engine braking when coming off the power. After having had it, I definitely wouldn't go back to the standard clutch and flywheel. I'd go as far as to say on a Sigma it'd be worth taking the engine out to fit that alone. But then you know, if the engine is already out... 22daz

I persisted with the standard electrical sender for years. Got fed up when one only lasted a couple of months so I went mechanical from Think Automotive and it was one of the best things I did to that car. I had total confidence in the readings thereafter. Super easy job too. 22daz

I've been hunting a very similar noise on my car for a while. Exactly the same situation where if one rear wheel hits a bump it is silent. If both drop together like when there is a rut across the road, it clunks like something is badly loose. I've removed hood sticks, checked all bolts, replaced the ARB droplinks, seats, headrests, cable tied everything, sorted the boot floor, you name it.. The other day I tightened the two long threaded bars that hold the fuel tank in place approximately another 5mm. I haven't heard it since. I'm too skeptical to say I've found it after so much effort searching, but I didn't hear it once the last time out whereas normally I would hear it 5 or 6 times on a run. Thought it was probably worth a mention. 22daz

I've bought 4 smart SGS wheel dollies over winter for around £80 and they have been really useful. I tried some flat ones first but the car wheels just roll off them. The SGS are ideal for the job and it's easy to move. I can also push the car out onto the drive if needed. Very pleased with them for the money.

I wouldn't bother. The two times I've completely removed my Apollo tank on the 1.6k there has been hardly anything in it. The first time half a mug full and second time about the same amount of oil as milk you'd put in a cuppa. Compare that to the 6.5 litres of fresh oil you're likely to be putting in and it's largely insignificant.

That's probably just Ackerman effect from having wide tyres on a Porsche especially when manoeuvring. The inside of tyre wants to turn more tightly than the outside of the tyre.. which it obviously can't so judders on the road surface. I changed my 420 Titan diff oil after its first 3000 miles and it was half bright blue and half dark. Very odd but two different colours not mixed. I presume mine has carbon plates but it wasn't that bad. 22daz

Fill is the square plug on the left hand side of the gearbox.

I had a mate weigh some of these for me who is a tyre retailer. Whilst the actual weight slips my mind I do remember thinking there's not a chance I'd put them on my car. Very heavy for a seven.