JonT
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Everything posted by JonT
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Yup, I had the same.(1997 EU2 car). I went for a Racetech gauge https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/racetech-80mm-electronic-tachometer-with-shift-lights-rttc-sl which also has built in shift lights. They do a cheaper version without the shift lights too. There's a button for max rpm telltale/programming, but I've just tucked it out of the way upbehind the dash. Once all set up you don't really need it. It matches the speedo since my gearbox drive got flaky and was leaking, so I've got a matching racetech speedo driven by a hall sensor on one of the front hubs.
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This gets a good reccomendation on SELOC - I've just bought one and works ok. Much cheaper than CTEK etc https://www.amazon.co.uk/Maypole-7423A-Battery-Charger-Electronic/dp/B009A83P1E
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If you can use the K-series PRRT unit, that's got the thermostat within the Y joining piece to merge cool rad flow and hot bypass flow. So you don't need a flow restrictor in the bypass pipe, and remove the thermostat into the block. I've done the same on my K-series, and it seems to work pretty well. You should end up with pretty much constant flow, and the thermostat simply merging hotter (bypass) or cooler (rad).
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On the Bluestone heath road about 11am today. I was parked up in my tintop having an early lunch and glad of my aircon! I've done days in this heat before and it's not that much fun.
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re #4, doors and screen - I found at Snetterton this week that running with a screen and no doors cost me 5-10mph on the back straight compared to screen with doors. But it was so warm, no doors ended up as the preferred option in the afternoon. However this is up around 100mph. I doubt the effect is so pronounced up to 60.
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0.0 sounds like it's the trip reading. I doubt the milage has a decimal place. It sounds like the trip reset button might be stuck on so it's constantly resetting. Give the switch a good wiggle, or maybe spray with contact cleaner? Is it integrated into the unit or separate? If it's separate, maybe you could chance the switch?
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I can usually get a grip on it with a plumbers wrench (something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-PL23-Waterpump-Pliers-Capacity/dp/B000LFVA3K/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=Plumbers+Wrench&qid=1592205721&sr=8-6)
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The point is to stop people on track chasing lap times and making unsafe decisions (mostly around overtaking). Analysing at home - or even during lunchbreak is probably reasonable, but if you want to be chasing seconds or milliseconds, it's time to take up sprinting or racing. TDs are supposed to be a bit of fun. Sure, there might be lots of loopholes about what counts as timing, but ultimately if too many people take the piss they will spoil it for everyone because the TDO won't be able to get insurance to operate (which is where I understand the no-timing requirement comes from). Ironically the faster laps may well be the ones that feel slower because you're smoother. It gets even harder to avoid when some modern cars have built in data loggers and recording systems.
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Sticky tyres are more likely to be worse in cold conditions (<7C) than normal road tyres. I'd also expect road tyres to behave more softly at the limit, rather than letting go suddenly, albeit the limits will be lower in many conditions than sticky tyres. I think the A052s are now being fitted on some Elise models as standard so could well be a good option, but they're bloody expensive! They're also quite a new tyre, which might be why no-one has run them on 7s.
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You could also try Nankang NS2Rs which I think are available in 185/60/14 and somewhat track focussed. I'm considering those for my next set on 13s. Personally for road use I quite like road tyres, but I do drive in all weathers. I was disappointed Conti discontinued their Premium Contacts in that size, but I moved to Dunlop Sport Bluresponse which aren't quite as good, but have done ok with light track use as well as road. Having just had a quick search, I also see Vredstein have introduced a Sportrac in that size - I've been impressed with them in the past on other cars, so maybe that's worth a go too.
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Message sent about perspex aeroscreen.
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Rather than aerosol tyre repair, I prefer a string kit - eg https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Emergency-Car-Van-Motorcycle-Tubeless-Tyre-Tire-Puncture-Repair-Kit-Tool-Strips/143610513317?hash=item216fda87a5:g:IbgAAOSwsnpexX4T If you're using aersol, I think you'll still be speed limited, while this is pretty much as good as the repairs they do taking the tyre off the rim, and it doesn't leave gunk all over the wheel either. The only risk is if you don't spot the puncture soon enough and have sidewall damage - but that applies to the aerosol too. My 7 has the spare wheel anyway, which makes it far more practical than any other sports car I think I've ever owned
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I figure parts are more useful than tools. Breakdown/local garages will have tools (although maybe not imperial in Europe?), but probably not parts. Having said that, I've usually got a few basics, including a big flathead for taking the nose cone off. As well as cables mentioned above, I've usually got rotor arm, dizzy cap, couple of spark plugs and some oil. Anything in the boot gets well wrapped in waterproof bags since it's bound to get wet on a touring trip.
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re the case statements (#37), from some of the folk I've spoken to in the industry, empty conditions or functions is by design - the hooks are left so either during testing, or in different models of the same ECU they can insert additional functions. It also allows for MC/DC testing which might be needed for safety certification. Again, I've worked on safety software in the past where you'd still have a statement in what should be an unused condition to allow for testing. If the higher level code was decently optimised, they wouldn't be able to do either of those. It's probably written in C and compiled, but with relatively low levels of optimisation, possibly with a bias to size rather than performance.
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I went for the larger fan, so I suspect the brackets are different if you were planning to keep yours...
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I had great customer service from radtec a couple of years ago - after fitting the rad discovered a tiny weep from one of the welds. They sent out a new rad immediately; I returned the old one expecting to hear nothing more, but a couple of days later another large package turned up. They'd fixed the weld and sent it back to me as a spare (I guess since it had been filled with coolant they couldn't resell it). But it hasn't been needed in the couple of years and 10k or so miles since. No issues with overcooling or heating, whether in freezing temps at the top of Stelvio or second hottest day of last year on a track day at Clastres. I do have a laminova which will dump extra heat into the cooling system and my thermostat setup is non-standard though (1600 K-series).
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Thanks, that diagram is nice and clear. Definitely seems odd.
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Having poked slightly at more recent engine management code, a lot of it has scary amounts of legacy that no-one wants to go near/change - even if doing so would be massively more efficient. Is table 0 a bunch of offsets/pointers into the other tables? Cockup or linker script issue entirely possible too.
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I've got a laminova on my K-series, which as you say works well as an oil warmer too. One thing to watch though is that you'll be dumping more heat into the cooling circuit, so you may want to increase the capacity of the radiator. I don't know if it's coincidence, but not long after fitting my laminova the end caps went on the rad - which was a good excuse to upgrade.
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- Standard brake master cylinder for 2001 K-series Roadsport/Supersport
JonT replied to gin-fizz-whizz's topic in For Sale
I spent some time looking at this last year, and discovered Past Parts who looked like they could probably service it and rehone if necessary. However the cost wasn't actually that much less than the cost of a new one from Caterham (and the new ones are all now AP racing, whether standard or uprated). I didn't manage to find any other vehicle that it was common with with enough confidence to look to an alternative supplier. -
Thanks. It's only one side that needs doing, and I've ordered two, so hopefully can get a good one in place. What's the best lubrication - engine oil? Or something lighter? (not sure what I've got in the garage). The other thread suggests not using bearing grease as it's too sticky.
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Thanks Jonathan!
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I've noticed that one of my front wheel bearings has lost the packing material (soft sort of fabric thing) that sits innermost between the hub and upright. Is it available separately? Bearing itself seems fine, and it's only happened recently so I don't really want to buy a whole new bearing kit just to get that bit. 1997 K-series if it makes any difference. thanks, Jon
