andy_harries

That filled up quick!!

Mine is erratic and stops working over around 80mph, but as I only do that speed on track and I tend to watch the shift lights to think about what I'm doing rather than the speedo I can't be bothered to fix it. Have fiddled with the gap in the past to get it working fine at normal road speeds - gap is 1mm - and when turning it by hand there don't seem to be any issues with the light.

Found here: http://www.gurstondown.org/competitor-information/ We're on the grass it seems. At least it's not due to rain. Still can't see final instructions though

Thanks for the mail Richard - your mailbox is full so can't reply, but add me to the list

Hi Richard How much would it be (if we get 10 people) and how many sessions would you think we get each? I'll be coming from Watford, so a 2 hour drive. Want to make sure its worth the trip!

No rain in the forecast for Sunday now (at least till 8pm). Gazebo still going in the car just in case

I'll swap a space under the gazebo for some secrets on going faster !

For those that have been there before, is there room to put up a gazebo in the paddock spaces ? It's looking like it might be wet....

I founs a small bolt through the middle works, mainly because its a second hand aeroscreen that didn't have a popper, and I had a spare set without the rear portion. .

Yes, they look like that, although the head is a little thinner

Quick update for anyone who finds this when searching the archive. Trying a few options, I went for an M8 T slot head bolt (Google it for pictures). Essentially it looks like a normal bolt, with an elongated head on it, so that it fits in the runner but catches the sides when you turn it to undo or do up the nut. The bolt head itself is 22.5mm long, 12.6mm wide and 3mm thick. I could only find them in 100mm length, so just chopped it down to 20mm or so to match the old ones. Fitting them on the front two holes was easy, but I had to trim one side of the head to ease them into position on the back two holes. Your fingers may be smaller and more dextrous than mine so that may not be necessary!

Spotted Saturday early evening heading south near Bedford. Love the green with yellow stripe colour scheme, looks like you might have been coming back from a track day?

Cap head bolt and a long allen key is a cunning plan, thanks chaps.

Posting this as information that might help someone, and then as a bit of a rant. First the good: Was replacing the side indicator light (the one mounted on the front wing) - not sure if this is the case on all cars, but on mine (2016 ex academy car) the cable is routed through the hollow wing stay arm and pops out a hole near where the steering arm connects to the wheel. The hole it comes out from is quite small, but it turns out that a 3mm crochet hook is the perfect size to hook the wire and pull it out of the hole. Took 10 seconds to sort (after 10 mins or trying other things). Now, the bad. Bloody seat bolts. Whoever had the car before me replaced the bolts that go through the seat runners and bolt it to the floor with ones where the head is much smaller than the width of the runner. So, when I undo the nut from underneath the car , as soon as its loose then the bolt just spins as I try and loosen the nut. Cue hours of reaching under the seat to try and grap the bolt head to stop it spinning as I loosen the nut. Given I don't fancy paying for new seat runners with captured nuts, I'm going to replace the bolts with ones that have larger heads (probably T headed bolts) so that they catch on the sides of the runners when I tighten the nuts underneath. At least installing the replacement radiator was easy enough.

Thanks Graham, that would be great. Let me know what cash / beer / alcohol of your choice would be a good exchange for it See you at Curborough

At the moment I have the loop system that provides the 5th and 6th point for the Caterham brand harness (the bottom bit that goes under the seat) - its fine, but a bit of a pain to put on and off quickly. The harness buckle has a slot at the bottom for a crutch strap to plug into, but CaterhamParts and Redline are both out of stock with no sign of when they will restock. I don't want to replace the whole thing, so two questions: - Are the harness buckles standard sizes, so I can get a crutch strap for say an OMP one that will clip into my buckle? - If not (that would be far too easy, obviously), any other ideas on who might stock something that is compatible? The harness is from my 2016 car and is branded Caterham, except for the buckle which says Luke Racing Systems on it. I've searched around to find someone selling a Luke Racing Systems crutch strap but no success yet (although I could buy a whole harness set up).

If you search out Rob Oldland on YouTube (think his username is RobO on here?), there is a very useful video on what pre-track checks that he does - including scoket sizes and torque settings for the spanner check. There's also a few other very useful videos on his channel as well. One thing I found on my first time on track with my car is is that the mirrors are next to useless at spotting other cars on track when at high speed on the straight if they are bolted to the doors as they flap around too much!

You have mail !

Also haven't had a covid declaration email yet

Given there are 22 paid and 85 not, I expect most are in your situation (as am I). If I haven't heard anything I'll probably pay on Thursday just in case

On the academy cars I think they are wrapped in place with gaffer tape wound around them as well. That's certainly what I did as cable ties didn't seem to be holding it very securely. I guess the idea behind gluing it is that in an impact a cable tie may not hold it in place enough when impacted and there is a risk of it rotating when struck with your head, limiting its effectiveness.

Roadsport cage, lowered floor, I'm 5'11 with 6 point harness. I have some Demon Tweaks padding as I reckon in a very big shunt on the road my head might just reach the left hand bar if I'm unlucky. Also have padding on middle and right hand bar for passengers as their head would be closer in a shunt.

Ah, that makes more sense, thanks

@aeroscreens You've done better than me, I couldn't work out the space allocation diagram. I'm hoping someone will be around to direct me to the right place on the day !

Interested in the sigma radiator if someone hasn't beaten me to it.