andy_harries

I think that settles it - new stuff to be ordered....

Using the diagram in the notice, the mod definitely hasn't been done yet as the earth wire does go off into the loom. I'm going to take this small victory and not push my luck, besides the brakes need bleeding and my tube is too small!

The bleed nipple is a lot bigger than on my previous cars, so none of my tubing fits! One question - I have a bottle of never opened brake fluid thats about 6 years old. The seal is still good - would it be fine to use?

Thanks to all that commented. A 360 manual spin of the wheel showed that the sensor wasn't picking up consistently, so I backed it off to 1.5mm gap which I think has done the trick. A little drive around shows that its rock solid now, albeit reading consistently 6 mph below the reading from a GPS speedo app on my phone (measured from 10mph to around 65mph). The earth mod is next on my list, just to avoid any issues in the future.

Thanks guys, I'll pick up some r clips and use both bleed nipples

Following a recent track day, my brakes started squeaking on the way home. In the past on other cars that's been a result of a build up of brake dust (lots of hard breaking !), so I thought I would combine sorting that that with a check of the pads and a bit of a brake bleed. Couple of questions as its a bit different from previous cars: 1) There are two bleed nipples on the caliper, I'm used to only one. Can I assume that's for convenience and that I can happily use the outer nipple to bleed from, or do I have to use both? 2) the piece of wire holding in the pad retaining pins looks like it will have to be cut to get the pins out. On other cars these have been simple R-clips I can pull out and put back in. If I cut the wire I'll need to replace it every time I mess with the brake pads which seems a bit odd. Is this normal? Can I replace the wire with small R-clips ? Pic (2016 roadsport, look like standard 2 pot front calipers on unvented discs)

Hi all Been searching through the archive as the needle on my speedo can be quite erratic across the whole of the speed range - can't see any pattern, except on a recent track day it gave up the ghost above around 90mph running down a straight. I've found the sensor, checked the gap and had a poke around with the wiring (issues that seem to have been the case according to previous posts). The sensor is very well held in place, the gap seems to be 1mm and the two nuts holding it are very tight so I don't think that it has moved at all. The wiring seems to be in good condition as well. What should I look at next? Making the gap smalle than 1mm (other posts have suggested 0.8mm have fixed issues before). Change the speedo sensor itself? Or look at a potential issue with the speedo itself? The rev counter is rock solid. Pic of the sensor on the rear drivers wheel hub (car is a 2016 Roadsport):

Weather is looking good for tomorrow.... no rain, low wind and mild. Maybe I won't be going as slowly by the end as I thought!

Thanks to Jonathan, dzus clip identified and replacements bought! Named after William Dzus, the inventor of that type of clip apparently....

Hi all Bit of light maintenance today (checking tyres, fluids etc) I took the nosecone off and noticed that the clips that hold it on underneath were missing. The two side clips are there: but the ones underneath are not: The nose cone seems to be well held on when the bonnet is in place, but I'm a bit worried that it could fly off going over a big bump etc. I can cable tie for now, but should I replace the clips and if so where would I get them from? The fitting that it clips into is still in place on the car.

Very helpful, thanks for the replies all

Hi all I joined the club recently and have been ploughing through the extensive back catalogue of guides, technical briefs and posts, but a combination of my lack of searching and winnowing skills, and there being quite a few different engine and car types have left me with a couple of simple questions still to be answered. The car is a 2016 Roadsport R with a 125hp 1.6 Sigma engine. Its road legal, with my guess being that its life will be half spent on country lanes and half going around a track. I'm only very vaguely competent with a spanner - I owned a Subaru Impreza previously that I'd fettled with myself to make it better for the track (upgraded brakes, changed the intercooler, installed oil and boost guages etc) but that was a while ago so be gentle! Oil - I'd used Silkolene with my Scooby when tracking it, bought from Opie Oils. Assume Fuchs Titan Race Pro 5W 40 (the new name for Silkolene it seems) would be a good choice with significant time spent on the track? Tyre pressures on the track and road- I've currently got Avon ZZS (185/55/R13). My plan is to get an additional set of wheels and put tyres that work better in the cold and wet on them, but for now what would be a good set of pressures to try for the road and then also for the track in colder weather? Torque for wheel nuts - couldn't see in the Ikea style build manual I downloaded? Battery cut off - Is it enough to flick the battery cut off switch when leaving the car in the garage for a couple of weeks, or will I still need to get a battery conditioner? On the Scooby I had a detachable connector so when I knew I wasn't going to use it for a few weeks I would quickly disconnect the battery which would save it from draining too much. Obviously long periods of storage would need a conditioner anway, but hopefully it'll only be 2 or 3 weeks between runs out on the road or track. Size of hex key for radius arm bolt behind the seat. The guy at the dealership mentioned that one of the things to check is whether the rear radius arms are loose after significant track running (he races a roadsport and finds he needs to tighten his from time to time). One side of this is in the wheelarch, but the other is down the side of the seat and looks like it needs a long stubby hex key to get to it without taking the seat out. Anyone know one that would fit (not just size of bolt, but slip down behind the seat into it)? Specific Caterham-y things to check when tracking it. As with the Scooby I'll need to check things like fluids, wheel nuts and tyres when preparing for a track day, but like the radius arm bolt, are there any other things that are more specific to caterhams that I wouldn't think of (like ensuring the pin is out of the extinguisher in the boot) ? Thanks in advance - apologies if I've missed something obvious in the guides etc that answer some or all of my questions (don't worry about just posting a link in your reply, I'll make sure I dig through and then bookmark for next time!).

Hi all Although I've hired a few Caterhams for track days in the past I've just picked up a 2016 Roadsport which I can call my very own. I'm off to Donnington for a Bookatrack track day on 16th Feb - if anyone from the club is around, I'll be in a black Roadsport with reg that starts NX65, do come and say hello. I'll also be going round very slowly while I work out what it can do in the damp and cold! I'd love to make it to the novice track day I see the club has arranged in April but I'll unfortunately be away on a family holiday then :( Cheers - Andy