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Ralph45

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Posts posted by Ralph45

  1. I've cleaned every chassis rail,prop shaft,underfloor panel going and now I'm turning my interest to refreshing the aluminium in the engine bay.

    There are signs of light oxidising on the bulkhead and foot wells panels and I would like to get a more uniform look to it but keep it as near to a satin or grained finish I really don't want it shiny.

    Any one have experience or ideas on how to achieve the look I'm after?

     

     

  2. I've just fitted my Dave Gemzoe led head light bulbs and the difference they make is truly like night and day. 

    Im really pleased with the results. 

    The led and driver body easily fit inside my 5 3/4 headlight bowls and as #37 TomB uploaded image shows they have adjustment to ensure the led is upright inside the headlight bowl by means of rotating the led bulb and driver in the holder,the part with the three flats you can only fit a certain way,I'm sure you know what I mean by that if you look at #37.

    And while fitting them I took the chance to clean up the inside of the headlight glass and the reflectors  *thumb_up* looks fresh and up to date.

     

  3. I use ultra tape extra strong foam mounting tape product code 45669 from tool station which comes in a 25mm x 10m roll just trace round the mirror base cut out with scissors for a perfect shape the clean your screen with isapropyl  alcohol to degrease it and then place where you want it...you only get one go because I misplaced mine and it's properly stuck on !

    you can also use the tape for lots of other uses on the car such as number plate mounting etc.

    And it also only costs £2.99 per roll  *thumb_up*

  4. All good ideas Phil ,I find it quite amusing that only a few days ago I was looking at images of 7s and one that caught my eye so much so that I saved the image happens to be your car!

    small world.

    are the track rod ends you have fitted JW anti bump steer ones?

    your car looks really well kept  *thumb_up*

  5. Thanks Nick I've just bought a small tin from screwfix and done the track rod ends and have to say it looks very smart.

    I'll be giving the other parts a coat soon,  *thumbs_up_thumb*

    and by the way thank you for stepping up and helping the club by taking on the temporary role of club treasurer.

     

  6. The banner batteries have always been in the spotlight regarding functionality/longevity.

    Have a look on Dave Gemzoe's Facebook page.

    he recommends the powerlite ps-20.

    Just have a look at the graphs on the page.

    looks a far superior battery if the info provided is correct and I'm sure it is having the research work done by Dave Gemzoe !

  7. Well done and thank you Stephen,

    I have just come back from a nice dry ride on my bike feeling very smug as this time I didn't get soaked, that's the first time for ten weeks.

    And there is a parcel waiting for me,what could it be?

    My jacket  *clap*

    love it, they look great,and that's official as Yvette said so! So that's two out of two for a great fit.

    Well worth the wait and we all know it's been a little stressful for you but I'm very grateful for all the effort and time you have put in to the club jackets.

    Ralph

  8. Johnathan thank you for putting the image up but it now throws another fly in the ointment.

    All the build manuals or torque settings I can find state 20 nm.

    But if look closely in the exploded diagram it gives 25 nm as the setting to be used?

    I'm not really concerned,however I am now even more interested to know what to set the bolts at,and what do other fellow seven folk set them at ?

  9. Well thank you all for your views and personal preferences.

    I have decided to leave as is and just check the bolts on a regular basis.

    If at any point I find that they are loosening then I shall clean up the threads and wishbones thoroughly and apply a little thread lock.

    Thanks again 

    Ralph

     

  10. Well I've just had the front shocks out and when it came to refitting I quickly checked the torque for the upper and lower mountings from a saved screen shot,it states 20 nm.

    All good,a little copper slip 20 nm and all together again,right?

    Well not according to another saved torque screen shot I've now just found from further back in time stating 20 nm and thread lock! !!

    Both are from CC.

    So should I strip the shocks out again and try to clean the copper slip from the thread in the lower wishbone and use some Loctite or leave well alone and just keep an eye on it?

    opinions or personal experiences?

    its a wide track 1999 using Bilstein shocks if that makes any difference?

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