Jim 123

My personal experience with hole cut saw bits differs from the comment above.

Try a hole saw (attaches to your drill) as plumbers use for waste pipes.  Wickes should do the size you want.

Green and grey circular thing in #2

If you don't believe him undo the nipple progressively up to 1 turn whilst your mate pumps the pedal. 

You'll see from the photo in #2 that there is bags of thread seating the assembly. The only thing likely to come out is air and DOT 4
 

Dunno if this helps...........

With the driveshaft in a vice you might be pushed to get enough friction contact to stop it turning when you try to crack the nut. Caliper back on if you are worried about the diff? Chances are that the removal torque might be less than the 270Nm needed to seat the original bearing in its' carrier.

Why not cut a large disc from a discarded CC cardboard parts box and mark a vertical axis as well as your desired angle from hub center. Stick it to the wheel with a plumb line on the vertical as your control. Before doing so put masking tape on the wing stays and wing inner edges and when all is in place mark with a pen to give repeatable alignment.

You should be able to lock the prop shaft yoke against the chassis with a solid piece of bar (screwdriver?).  Remember that one nut is a clockwise thread, the other is anti clockwise.  They are really tight.

My wings had position marks on the underside of the wing.  I used John's method and the position marks coincidentally turned out to be spot on.  As a final check before you drill make sure that the rear edge of each wing does not foul the bodywork on full lock.

You'll get pressure as soon as you crank the ignition, and remember you have about half a litre of oil that will be lurking in the pump, galleries and oil filter.  The Caterham Build Manual idea is, I suspect, mainly incase some numpty self builder forgets the initial fill in his race to hear the exhaust crackle and pop.

It is not unexpected that Toyota engines can sit dormant inside a vehicle in the supply chain for several months without turning over. 

Hexes and schor washers look like a good idea. It'll be interesting to see what the accessibility to the bobbins is like with the ARB and its mounts in place.

To be honest the IVA trims will self grip to the wings and stay in place without the need for glue.

Nope that does not fit with my recollection of the picture in the Manual.  I have a look for it later if that helps

Mark,  what you have done in the recent photo is not right.  I suggest you refer to the pre Ikea build manual which from memory has a similar piccy.

I used 292i. 

I have an S3 with leather seats.  The problem appears to be that the front LH edge of the seat cushion fouls the trans tunnel as you move it forward.  A couple of years back I was in CC in Crawley trying 7's for size.  The sales guy produced a quick fit overcushion trimmed to match the leather seats.  This got me into a more comfortable position as I then sat closer to the pedals.  You could give them a call and find out where they sourced it from.  At the time the guy did say to me it was a Softbits item.

What I have resorted to, is using a firm dense foam cushion placed behind the lower face of the seat back.  For me it places my rear end about 50mm further forward, and I find it just a little more comfortable than when seated without as it gives a bit more lateral support for the lower back.
 

Nick, an interesting treatment.  I think my quirky prejudice is with regards to vinyl decals where they are applied as a lower cost substitute for paint, but don't make the mark from a homogenous surface quality appearance perspective. However, your car creatively uses vinyl graphics to shift the whole visual read of the body in a way that paint would struggle with.  Hmmmmm....... I sense an experiment being added to my To Do List.

Another thumbs up for the long nose cap.

I prefer paint versus decals.  It's a personal thing I guess, but because the decals are low gloss and have a lot of surface finish texture due to the adhesive telegraphing through, IMHO they tend to undermine the overall quality of appearance.

It looks to me that you could get round the problem if the fixing holes through your number plate were drilled higher up the plate (making the plate sit lower down)?

Not sure if that would give ground clearance concerns.

Mark, re #18 you are correct.  The rear brackets simply get pulled against the sides of the rear diagonals by the fixings.

Well done ignore my last message.

Mark re #4, you've probably tried it, but when you try to get both under bolts loosely in place on each side are you ensuring that the rear facing bar diagonals are free from their fixing brackets?