Jim 123

I'd say that the gearbox mount is do able but you need to take the tunnel cover off.  You will need a long socket extension to get down to the 4 bolts that fix the cross bracket to the chassis from above.  Chances are you will need somebody to hold the corresponding nuts from turning underneath the car.

If your problem is a steering vibration within a rev range, have you had a play about with the angle of the steering column?  There is a chance that you either have a touch condition where it enters the pedal box or a near touch.  You might also want to check that the gearbox is not contacting the LH chassis lower longitudinal.

Maybe it's how you describe the test you have done, but are you saying the switch opens and closes the circuit if you bridge between the 2 pins in the mini loom and operate the gearshift?

Can you pass a current through the 2 poles on the switch mini loom? With and without reverse engaged.

Also try and have a squint to see if the switch has been damaged where it enters the box.

You might also find that the intensity issue on your rear lights has been improved.

Why not open up the casings of the number plate and reverse lights and check the integrity of these units with your meter as a first step?  It would be interesting to clarify if you have fixed the differing intensity of the tail light / brake lights.  The number plate light will take its feed from one of these.

2 other things to consider.  From memory there is a small earth that has to be fixed to the fasteners of the RH rear wing below the boot floor. Also have you confirmed that the rear fog is working.

Mark have a look at page 165 of the pre Ikea Manual re the number plate light and do a check.

The black connection is the correct one. Maybe before you disturb the tunnel top it would be worth doing a few checks for continuity around the reverse light assembly?

Timing of our postings is a bit out of sequence.  I revised #49 as it loaded with a delay.  

Is the fan fuse OK?

Mark, I think you need to buy a few more fuses.  Next step would be to try the brake switch without touching the reversing light.

Well spotted! Fingers crossed it's the combined fuse on the Duratec.

Mark, another thought re your temperature readings, are you using an Easimap OBD connection lead and Easimap software. Maybe somebody else can comment but I am not sure that generic leads and software are compatible in a 7.

Brake light switch is inside the pedal box and is adjustable.  On the gearbox reversing light switch there are 2 sets of leads on the LH side of the box.  Did you connect the forward most or rear most leads from the box into the loom? Re #38, are you getting tail and fog light?

Have you checked your Owner Handbook which has the fuse box layout? Are you getting rear indicators?

I would check that you have the roll over head protection that is described in the links in #2.

#18 is the answer that Derek will give you if you call him on Monday.

If the nose cone is off the car, I'd put it on to assist heat retention around the rad and to make sure that the thermostat has fully opened.  Keep an eye on the temp gauge and if the fan does not come on by 110 then there might be a basis to check the fan wiring.  The ECU that controls the fan is not likely to be defective.  You can pop a 12V supply through the fan motor by disconnecting its plugs into the loom to settle yourself down on that score.

Mark just to mention that, with a Seven in an garage and the engine running, you need to watch the fan as you will not hear it running.  It also can tickle on for very short intervals before going off again.
 

I'd suspect that things will start to happen before you get to 110. One problem with the Seven gauges is possibly a combination of parts newness, accuracy, linearity, and lack of any markers between 80 and 110.  In summer and in traffic you will see 110 on the gauge. If it's any help, i was bricking myself for the same reasons on my first engine run up.

I'm inclined to agree with Duncan's comment.

I think you can be relaxed about leaving the gauge needle to cover / go beyond to the last but one marker line which would be 110.  See if the fan kicks in then.  Remember that the fan is pretty quiet so a visual look see is worth doing.  I'd also let things run to the marker on the gauge as it sounds like possibly the thermostat is not fully opening, but this does not imply it is at fault..  Without the thermo open bleeding will be difficult.

There are also a couple of redundant loom leads from memory  that can be misinterpreted as the fan feed, but I'd persevere with the above if it was me. Next step would be a continuity check on the fan circuit, but hopefully this will not be necessary.

It takes an age for the fan to kick in with your ally radiator. Is the Thermostat opening up as it may need quite a time at idle to actuate the thermo on a day like today.  You'll need to be about 95 degrees plus on your temp gauge from memory before the fan kicks in.  Are you bleeding from the top of the rad, and is the lower rad pipe as warm as the top?

Visit this sites Home Page.  At the bottom you will see Popular Guides with a sub menu Get To Know Your Seven.  Follow the link and you will come to a feature on Roll Bars and Cages.  Hopefully this will help.

50 / 50

Faulty replacement starter?  Could the relay be damaged if the pos and neg feeds had been incorrectly transposed and then refitted.

Looks like no takers in response to your question John, could the rusty discolouration perhaps be brake pad and rotor disc dust getting a bit rusty where it has accumulated over an impressive 73K miles life?

Mark re #4 have a look at the Handbook re pairing you may not need to do this..  If the blinky red dash light goes out the immobiliser is deactivated and ready to go.  There is an aerial on the ignition barrel and sometimes you need to put the fob close to the ignition barrel to get the immobiliser electrics talking. For first fueling 15 litres should get the system primed as usually a 5 litre can-full is not enough.

You'll need about 15 litres of fuel in the tank.  Ensure the immobiliser is paired and deactivates.