Jim 123

The inlet to the heater matrix is the lower of the two.

3M Dual Lock SJ3550 from memory.

Halfords do caliper paint in small tins for £11. 

Mine was pretty much the same and passed the IVA.  On the S3 Sigma the condition standard. If you want more gap you can loosen the rack bolts,and push the column downward as Tom says. Keep an eye on the column for annular witness marks that would indicate any possible touch due to flex in the column.

Are your wings stuck on or removable? If it is the latter it should be cheaper if you deliver the parts to the painter. 

A precautionary check of the oil level with the car sitting level might be worthwhile.  If the diff has an over fill it will not help.
 

Chris, you could possibly find that once you get a few miles under the wheels of your new car the niggles are not as major as you currently suspect. 

Ian's point about making sure that any raising of the seat includes support for the cushion base is in my opinion very relevant, particularly as you don't want the cushion to submarine if you come to an unplanned sudden stop.  Depending on how high you would want to raise the seat, I'd be careful about the design of any significantly raised runner support if this introduces substantially longer fixing bolts.  Versus the current design; with longer caphead bolts their heads, nuts, and their mountings will be subject to a bit more tensile stress under high vehicle retardation.  However this can be catered for in your design to avoid fixings pulling through etc.

Not a long term solution, but to get you motoring, have  you looked at Googling "adult car booster cushions?"

The lowered floor sits about 50mm below standard.  What amount of height do you think you will want to raise the seat cushion by?

Try unzipping the rear screen.  Fix the poppers with the hood stick straps slack and then position the rear stick first to check the fixed strap length is not compromised. Move the forward stick into alignment with the seams then Velcro. Afterwards zip the back screen into place.

Heavy duty rubber sheet is available in thicknesses up to 10mm if that is any good to form a disc.  

Try AST Tools in Redditch.

Yep they all go on to the solenoid pos terminal

In the Miscellaneous fastener pack you should have two cap heads (1/2 inch X 2 1/2 inch UNF) for mount to rubber blocks.

There are also 4 M8 bolts 8.8 grade.  Three are 45 mm long and the one that takes the engine earth is 50 mm from memory.  These are for the rubber blocks to chassis.

Another duplicate.

If I get out in the next few days I'll compare mine to what you describe above.

After my build, I started doing a walk around and touch test and was surprised to note temperature on the rears.  Probably your car needs a bit more miles of bedding in and wear?

A few things that I considered, some of which may be open to challenge....... Unlike a tin top, there is quite a bit more airflow around the front discs on a Seven which complicates comparison of temperature with the rears inside the rear arches.  The Seven's low weight and center of mass might dictate that the rear brakes on a Seven proportionally provide a bit more retardation than conventionally expected from a FWD saloon car braking system.. I made multiple chassis fixings for the handbrake cable where it snakes around the back end. This was to stop any road induced wobble in the cable teasing the rear discs on and off whilst driving.  I also worked out that my incredibly flat feet needed a narrow shoe fitting, as I was glancing the brake pedal when I operated the throttle

1/ When the car is up to temperature, what happens if you park stationary at idle with the car in neutral and try to engage 1st?  2/ Also from a cold start up, is it any easier to drop the clutch and keep it down, then go into 2nd followed by a move to select 1st before you begin to release the clutch? 3/ How much pedal travel from the floor is needed before the clutch just starts to engage when cold, and is this constant after the car warms up?

Handbrake adjustment a bit tight? Wheel bearings wearing a little on one side?  Disc rotor slightly out of true? Newest pads not matched to wear pattern on rotors?

I'd be tempted to try and get a good few more miles on the car and use the brakes to bed them in.

Duplicate.

You can get the Technical Data Sheet for your fluid on the internet. I've personally never come across shelf life limits for unopened DOT 4. If the container has the original foil seal intact it should be OK.

I found a couple of unopened bottles of brake fluid in my garage recently, but decided to bin them as a tenner would get me something that would not harbour unproven consequences of ageing and storage.

RE #18 it occurred to me that the nuts on the inside of the car for the mirror base are black dome heads, exactly the same as for the door hinges. It may be that the mirror fasteners have been bagged with the hinge fixings

The bleed nipples are underneath the black rubber caps in your photo.  2 per caliper and the convention is to bleed the innermost nipple first. My car has R clips.

To mention if you have to rejig the connection.  

A layer of cling film over the reservoir cap opening with the cap refitted will help reduce loss of brake fluid whilst you work. Sequence as no doubt you know is to fix the braided hose into the T piece with the other end tightened afterwards.

It looks to me that the braided hose washer and locknut assembly is quite "thick" and this may be stopping the threaded male end of the hose from fully seating in the T piece threaded aperture.

Is the immobilser light going out. Fuel level. Inertia switch engaged.