Jim 123

High Torque Fasteners in Coatbridge do drilled socket cap bolts.

Would small Schnorr Washers do the job instead of locking wire?

It would be very interesting to hear how P1 works out on your car. It appears to have a number of claimed virtues.  It is scratch polishable, and has no exposed edges to trap crud or lift; and peels off in one piece if needed.  A number of OEM's have played with opaque  single layer versions of P1 for in-transit protection, but the maths and process issues don't stack up for that type of situation even though the product has performance tested well.

The number of layers (thus material thickness) might give a small colour shift.  Probably not noticeable on the back wings, but you could always ask for a sample to be sprayed on a piece of glass as a pre check.

I'd guess that it needs a booth environment for application in order to avoid small dirt particles being trapped in the dying film as they won't be removable later.  Might be worth asking if they mask around the rear lights or remove them for spraying, just to avoid any surprise if you have to peel the P1 off at any time.

How does the price compare with the film based protection products? 

If you get some bar section ((say 40mm dia) metal billet, could you roll out the creases without damaging the powder coat?  The top edges of the inner skin may benefit from a roll of J section profile rubber strip to trim the top edge with the long section of the J against the outermost face.
 

Look at diesel particulate flush.  Halfords do them for around £90 and maybe you can use your club discount.

Try a company on EBay called SmartEarlyBird.  If you search for Ford Zetec Sump Plug you will find it.  Remember to order up a few of the plug washers as well.

If you have the original, pop into Mayday Seals and Bearings in Cheltenham.  They are pretty good at matching most nitrile type seals and washers.

As a precaution you may want to vernier check the thickness of your disc as you will probably end up removing the same amount off each side with the lathe.  Best not to go below minimum thickness esp if you are tack daying.

It may be relevant to learn how come the rear axle, propshaft, and gearbox have been treated to rebuilds in the last 1500 or so miles on a 2014 car.

Sorry maybe this can clarify my question...... If you look at the disc by standing at the side of the car, like looking at a clock face, what proportion of the "clock face" i.e. the disc is distorted and is the distortion towards the inside of the car or is it a bulge out? 

If you get completely stuck have a look at windscreen washer bags from Car Builder Solutions.

Not sure if I know where I am going with this, but is the run out towards or away from the center line of the car, and over what percentage of the rotor and flange circumference do you get the run out?

I went through the same decision process and plumped for the Dremmel mainly as I saw it as the most robust offering.  However as a rare to occasional user I think a cheaper option would be just as good and still last quite a few years.  I bought a kit but to be honest the party bag of different tools remains 90 % unused. 

Maybe get a dial gauge on both the disc rotor and the hub face?

Mechanics stethoscope?

I guess the poor bird felt like it was well and truly plucked when you came barreling towards him.

Caterham parts do a Seven specific ball joint splitter for your application, it costs about £70 however.  For kit assembly they provide a plain M14 nut to draw the ball joint into its seat and then swap for a nyloc torqued to 54Nm.

For your MOT would setting the he cable to give a "tight" 3rd click be a precaution for the roller readings.  You can always back off afterwards.

I find that the number and position of the cable to chassis retainers does influence the N / S efficiency, as some handbrake application is sacrificed due to distortion of the outer cable under tension.

Mark in my experience with a kit build you will have no issue whatsoever with Caterham regarding warranty. I cannot speak more positively about them. Maybe talk to CC, as I'd suspect that at this stage with a brand new car they will want you to get a lot more miles on the clock to bed everything down.  There are dozens of components in a new car that influence driveline shunt and they need to be worked over miles to achieve their design intent. 

Mark re #20 to possibly help settle you down as it's unlikely you can find another LSD to check from the IoM.

Whilst it's not the most tech investigation, what about eliminating the upstream driveline tolerances as much as possible and measure the clunk to clunk rotation of the diff flange with the back wheels locked (handbrake).  If you have a dial gauge all the better, and Im sure some other LSD owners on this posting would give you comparative readings from their cars.

How many clicks to engage the handbrake? Is it worth a couple of turns on the cable adjuster.

As mentioned you can choose for yourself at the ropes etc section. I got some for my car which was thin gauge and soft clear plastic.  It looked to me that it is designed to fit over heavy chain to protect it from damaging other surfaces.

In your video it is difficult to evaluate as the car is in neutral and the diff is rotating as you simulate the clunk.  Do you have any idea what travel or angle of movement you are getting in one direction when the diff flange is locked?

B&Q do large diameter clear plastic tube in cut your own lengths that will slip over the springs