pikeyboy

Having re read the post my money is on a air leak or more likely a clogged carb. If it was me I'd be getting it up and running then spraying carb cleaner around all the joints mishab plates etc. If it sucks in some carb cleaner it'll start to die. More likely to be a blocked jet though i think, but its easier to rule out simple stuff first before dismantling your webers. On that note you're running a 'split' weber configuration, if your engine is in good fettle this would seem over kill really considering the compression readings. Split webers are normally the preserve of full race 1380 plus engines looking for the last ounce of hp, which would have a comp test reading of closer to 200psi.

Also I've just tread that its running webers. is this a single or two DCOE's. If its two it'll only be running one side of each in a split configuration. Either way that compression seems quiet low for something in that state of tune ie needing a weber to fuel it, my race engine had 190 plus even after a seasons use.

I used to a race a frogeye some years ago. I once had a spurious miss-fire on a couple of cylinders, after much head scratching it turned out to be an air leak at the combined inlet exhaust gasket. I found this by spraying WD40 on it and allowing the gasket to swell and seal.

Don’t waste your time with an easy bleed the cap never seems to fit the master cylinder properly or you over pressurise things. Get a one way valve you attach to the bleed nipple and just pump away. I don’t usually buy anything from Halfords but you need one of these http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/brake-clutch-fluid/europat-vizibleed-bleed-aid?cm_mmc=Google+PLA-_-Engine+Oils+and+Fluids-_-Brake+&+Clutch+Fluid-_-321117&istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istItemId=lwawmx&istBid=tztx&_$ja=tsid:94971%7Ccid:865695751%7Cagid:43902126375%7Ctid:pla-328492332683%7Ccrid:202397318364%7Cnw:g%7Crnd:1074260047997160974%7Cdvc:m%7Cadp:1o1%7Cmt:%7Cloc:9046225&gclid=CjwKCAjwr-PYBRB8EiwALtjbz8rFZmOVGhkTzFHU1LC50y7Wh-3BAbz88I7o8XHU0p2kd6nWcjoAvhoCl-kQAvD_BwE

Ian FYI our blade engines are the RRW type, available upto 1998, and are of 919cc capacity.

My 2003 Fireblade has never had a cat on it for the MOT or otherwise.

There's a bloke in Newark who I used when I worked at NSK to weld stuff up for us. He's very good ( I've worked in the aerospace industry for many years so know a good welder) he's off Bowbridge road in Newark, his name escapes me but the company is Craven Fabrications. If you're still struggling I doubt Im far away I could take it into work and get one of the lads to do it for you.

i have a fireblade with a standard caterham ali rad, it never runs much above a qtr even on a hot track day when im giving it death. I wasnt sure if the sender is calibrated to the gauge or if the rads too large. Its JW built car if that helps.

You wont regret it!

I have a red line rose jointed (spherical bearing is the correct term) A frame on my live axle car. Fabulous thing, no more wasted time replacing bushes. Avoid the poly bushes on ebay, they didn't last 3 laps at brands on my car. It wasn't cheap but compared to loosing time on track days swapping the bushes its actually paid for its self quiet quickly. Sperical will be easy to swap as its just retained with circlips.

I've got spherical conversion for my lower a frame from redline on my car as I got sick of replacing the bloody a frame bush.

I bought a front and rear set on eBay for not a lot. Might have come from Ireland

Also to answer your question a 20 deg will be ok. Although you'll find they all clash with the head rest on a tillett

Hi Dave do you know if the side walls have any perishing

You might want to have a search on here as it's been covered before. What I would say is that with a hans you'll need to have the harness mounts moved to get the correct spacing and angle. If you're not racing in the caterham series you could do this with a bracket. Again search on here will help. I use a Simpson hybrid. Many people use these in sevens as they are not supposed to req the harness mounts moving. Mine had the wrong location and angle and so moved them myself and slit the rear bulkhead to allow the belts to attach from underneath the chassi rail. other people inc Simon rogers use them as is with the Simpson. The choice is yours

I used to just get an advise of no screen fitted and no wipes or washers - very friendly mot starion

That sounds more like it

I've had no front plate on mine for years now.

I've added some video.

try simply bearings.

A great day on Tuesday at a fab circuit, please make sure to run an event there next year.

Nick was your comment tongue in cheek? I don't remember anyone saying a hans or other FHR device is a must. Although they are definitely a good idea.

Good luck most covers either get torn , happened to a brand new Hamilton one first time i used it, the straps that clip under the car ripped out of the cover. Or they just blow off. I now have a race shuttle which is a bit of a sledge hammer to crack a nut I suppose but i can keep the car in it at home if needs be and is great at the circuit for shelter.

I have tillets in my car and yes if the seat isnt tilted back with spacers your head/helmet is pushed forward by the seat as the early ones were'nt really designed to be used with a helmet. This makes driving somewhat uncomfortable. To tilt mine back I have about 50mm of plastic kart seat spacers between mine and the runner, I've also got a foam (bag seat) insert to support my back. Simple and cheap fix. Regarding helmets, a snell race helmet isnt cheap, I know, I've just bought a new one, and isnt really required on a trackday when you arent wearing nomex pants. In your position I'd probably use the rock hard FIA cage padding and buy a good quality motorbike helmet, that fits well, that's the important bit. A motorsport helmet has a fire proof lining and generally have a smaller visor aperture, relative to a motorbike helmet. For what its worth, I have an ari gp6 and a hans type device as you cant be too safe.

I don't drive my 7 on the road much but went to the linc's L7 club meet about 2yrs ago. On the way there i clipped some wood in the road which must have nicked the valve stem. Having not realised what had happened it gave me a slow puncture it turned out I couldn't repair, i don't have a spare but almost managed to limp home using different garage tyre inflators. I ended up having to get a lift home and going back to collect it on the trailer that night.