Shougle

Yes, you're right, it looks beefier at that end, I hope the weld at the angle has been improved.

You could try Solvol Autosol Annodised Aluminium if the corrosion is only superficial.

Nick, Rimmer Bros do a gasket for about £2.50, half the price of Caterham Parts. I used it with a smear of non-setting gasket sealant, Granville blue, and so far no leaks. Rimmer part no. Elbow Gasket - PET10042 Tony

Yes, your correct Ian. It is from the inlet side on an SV. The new bracket from Caterham has a "recessed" hole for the top fixing to the engine and a flush one for the bottom but appears to be much the same as the broken one. My engine is the X power version with an aluminum plenum which rubs on the louvers of the bonnet so I asked Caterham if I needed the VVC/X Power bracket for an SV. Apparently not, they don't seem to make one. The new one does seem a little lower but still the manifold is a bit to close for comfort to the bonnet. Tony

I recently removed my K series engine to replace the damaged oil gallery and found that the angle weld on the engine mount was cracked. Not easily visible as the water pipe and engine earth strap are in the line of sight when the engine is in the car. Is this a common fault/weakness with this item or should I investigate another cause?

Hi Nigel, I recently inquired at Bilstein about having my rear shockers re-conditioned as both sides have a slight weep of oil. Cost quoted was £85 per shocker plus £12 carriage. Very easy removing units, I recently helped Stewart McC. take his off. Half the price of new dampers from Caterham. Regards Tony

Thanks John, have used a rubber lube, as you suggested, which got the bush moving easily. The problem was getting it over the joint between the rod and the flat link bar. Found this tip and it worked well: - Cut the old ones off with a knife. - Warm up the new ones in some hot water. - Liberally apply lubricant to ARB. - Loop a medium size cable tie through bush and fasten. - Push bush onto end of ARB as far as you can. - Using the cable tie as a handle, pull it round the joint. (I used a steel bar to help pull/lever on the tie as just pulling on the tie is painful!) - Clean off lubricant. Job done and and new drop link ball joints fitted. Bushes still a bit loose on the bar, I guess that is wear on the steel bar but as the MoT tester only considered it was "advisory" I am not going to spend £198 on a new ARB kit this year.

Trying to replace worn ARB bushes - any tips on how to get the bushes round the 90 deg bend and onto the bar, please.

Thanks for the advice guys. Took your advice and checked pulley alignment, peered into the crank drilling, looked clean and OK, checked the bolt thread was clean and reassembled it all. The bolt screwed right in with fingers and then torqued up to full loading as I would have expected. Engine fired up and all looks and sounds good.

Thanks, I will take the pulley off and have another go. The bolt did feel quite loose in the thread for some way in so I suspect there may be damage to the thread cut in the crank. Thanks for the advice on protective closing! Enough cuts on my hand from some of the sharp bits that seem numerous in a Caterham engine bay.

Thanks, will do.

I recently did a cam belt change on my K series and when I went to tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt it did not tighten properly. I torqued it in stages as I am always cautious in tightening bolts and started at 80Nm, iit clicked so altered the setting to 100Nm but the bolt continued to move for another 1/4 turn with limited resistance. Took out bolt, which seemed OK, but I couldn't see inside the crank to check the state of the threads. Re torqued to 80 and left it (should be 205Nm i yhink). Is it possible to strip such a large thread in steel or am I missing something. Is it safe to run the car with the pulley torqued up at just 80Nm?

I recently did a cam belt change on my K series and when I went to tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt it did not tighten properly. I torqued it in stages as I am always cautious in tightening bolts and started at 80Nm, iit clicked so altered the setting to 100Nm but the bolt continued to move for another 1/4 turn with limited resistance. Took out bolt, which seemed OK, but I couldn't see inside the crank to check the state of the threads. Re torqued to 80 and left it (should be 205Nm i yhink). Is it possible to strip such a large thread in steel or am I missing something. Is it safe to run the car with the pulley torqued up at just 80Nm?

Looks good as you have done it. I'm just looking at replacing badly scratched side screen perspex. Do you think that bolting 3mm polycarb to the complete frame would work and just cut out the old perspex?