chris whitlow

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I'm 6 miles north of Whitchurch and you're welcome to try mine.

Can you put me down for Blyton too please Graham. Thanks, Chris

I need to replace the unions on my brake master cylinder, as they're both leaking, but I don't know if I need a tool for a DIN mushroom flare or an SAE bubble flare. Does anyone know? Thanks, Chris

Can you put me down for 1 please Chris

Yes please!

It’s J1 in my mind as it’s the first junction after getting off the M6! In reality it’s J10, which does have a 1 in it!

Fantastic job Andrew! Thankyou for all your time and effort, much appreciated.

It was me and my daughter on our way back from Ninemeister in Warrington. The short time on the M6/M56 was a necessary evil, to avoid Warrington, and we got off the M56 at J1. It was the first time my daughter had been in a Caterham and she loved it! She even managed to climb in and out through the side of the cage swiftly and gracefully but she did insist on wearing my cap!

Thanks for your help Ian. The MFRU is one of the many things I’ve swapped and that, along with everything else, had no effect.

I’ve no idea what it’s worth but I’ve sent you a BM.

These are the numbers from my ECU.

If anyone has upgraded their Supersport EU2 ECU to an Emerald or similar and still has it lying around then I’m interested in buying it. Cheers, Chris

Thanks for your input Andrew. I’ll check the alternator connections and remove the belt as you’ve suggested. One thing that puzzles me about the immobiliser, as an aside, is that mine would work when fitted to Giles’ car but his wouldn’t work in mine. Thanks for the offer to get your oscilloscope on it. If the alternator checks don’t help I’m more than happy to come to you if you’re prepared to spend the time investigating the problem, much appreciated.

Today I swapped the MFRU but that made no difference. I also disconnected the two brown wires from the isolating switch, the one for the ignition, and joined them together. As well as this I bypassed the loom and put wires directly from the crank sensor to the ECU. None of these solved the problem either. Could it be the immobiliser malfunctioning? Does anyone know how to disconnect it from the ECU so that the ECU will work independently?

When the problem occurs all the other electrics stay on, gauges, headlights, etc. so I don’t think it’s the isolating switch but I’ll have a look. Thanks.

Right, here’s an update. I’ve tried my ECU in another car (thankyou Giles Dixon) and there wasn’t a problem. We did try the ECU from the other car in mine but my immobiliser wasn’t having any of it. We systematically change the plugs, rotor arm and ht leads but it still has the same issue. Having spent 2.5 hrs yesterday evening swapping parts, waggling wires and disconnecting various bits we gave up. On the drive home it was playing up again but at slightly lower revs. It became virtually undriveable at any revs so I turned the ignition off while driving, coasted fir a while, and then turned it back on. This changed nothing and it still continued to run roughly. However, when I stopped completely and turned off the battery isolating switch, on restart, it ran fine again as long as I didn’t give it too many revs. So it appears as if the ECU gets confused by a bad signal and isolating the battery resets the ecu. Next I’m going to try taking a new feed from the crank sensor directly to the ECU. Has anyone got any other suggestions? Thanks, Chris

It’s a 1.6 EU2 Supersport ECU.

Thanks for all the replies. I’ve checked the voltage between the earth and ignition voltage pins on the ECU and it remains constant when the problem occurs. I used pin 29 instead of 59 as there’s only 36 pins and 29 was black. Also fitted a coil that I borrowed but that also made no difference. I’m going to try swapping the ECU st the weekend.

It’s EU2 and the dizzy cap and rotor arm look ok.

Thanks for the replies and apologies for taking so long to respond. I changed the camshafts recently but it has run perfectly up until now. It's not been drowned. The idle sounds normal and at 5,500rpm it runs smoothly. In the clip it stopped by itself but then starts again immediately after. The earths and battery connections all appear ok. This morning I've fitted a new Crank Position Sensor and also swapped the Throttle position senor but to no avail. I've also run it with spark indicator lights on the plugs and when the problem starts there's no spark when the rev counter drops to zero so I'm wondering if it could be an ECU or coil issue.

I have a 1.6 K Series and it’s started to cut out at around 6.5k revs. I think it must be something electrical, I’ve checked the HT circuit and that there are no leads near the crank sensor, but otherwise I’m at a complete loss as to what the problem is. Has anyone suffered this before so can give me some ideas. Thanks in advance.

Can you put me down for one please Chris.

Can I have garage space please Chris.

Can I have a place too please Chris. Cheers, Chris