green george

Will do. Would that affect the indicator switch as well?

Hmmm, not sure I managed to get replies before the post was published...

Went for a spin today, and when indicating left got a horrible electrical short noise and no flashing green repeater on the dash. This fault is intermittent as it does work some times. The right hand indicator appears to work fine. Hazards work fine but occasionally the same electrical short noise is heard. I have checked and all the indicator bulbs are working. Removed the relay and found the three spade connectors to be bright and clean. I am sure this must be quite a common fault which I presume is a faulty relay. If so, is there a part number I need to search for? Before I get flamed I did try searching "indicator and relay". Without success. Not that au fair with search engine phraseology.... What would be the correct character string to search with in this case....?

Hi Are these still for sale? George

Post deleted - must learn to read more carefully

Thanks for your advice guys. I went back and took the nose cone off and had a closer look. I think the source of the knocking is the thermostat for my oil cooler knocking against the horns. The thermostat is not mounted and I think when the can was stripped down recently the geometry of the hoses has varied slightly. Anyway I feel happier now. Thanks for you advice guys.

This morning I was checking the fluids before attending Bedford tomorrow. Whilst I waiting for the oil to get up to temperature I was pottering and my attention was drawn to a new and interesting random knocking sound from the front of the car. It sounds as if it could ne in front of the engine but the nose cone was on so the sound may be refelcted. The knocking is not affected by revs and I know the cambelt was changed in the last 1200 miles by Caterham Cars. It sounds to me like something knocking against the chassis, but there is nothing obvious. The car was stationary. Just in case I am missing something critical I thought I would post this...

Hi Mankee thanks for the offer of new studs but I will take a raincheck as the original ones appear to be fine. I have thought about contacting the garage but really cannot see the point as I cannot prove that it was like that when it left the garage; I suspect that all it would do would create a break down in trust. The garage in question is very experienced and I am aware that they used another company to do some work, so who is to say it didn't happen there. The crux is, I suspect the work wasn't quailty assured. I will prbably just take my car elsewhere in future.

Hi Richard in answer to your question the original nuts appare to be chromed steel. Hi Steve K, I have examined the threads on the studs and they appeared fine and the new (to me) stainless nus fitted perfectedly. All torqued up to 58 lbft.

I know that Chris Wheeler of The 7 Workshop is currently building one. It may be worth speaking to him.

I think the stud length is fine. It was when I went to check the torque I found two of the nuts were apparently loose. Upon closer examination I found that the threads of these nuts had stripped; and therefore would not engage the stud.

All sorted thanks to the community spirit and generosity of ChrisC. I really appreciate what you did Chris, many thanks. George

I would love to do the GP Circuit but £300 is too rich for me at the moment.

138 miles each way versus 48 each way! However, I would love to do a club day. Are there any in the South East?

ChrisC I will have them! BM me your price and postage and I will make payament by PayPal (as a gift so no fees for you) immediately. Bloody brilliant!

I like the idea of stainless steel as it is obviously much stronger than aluminum. Having looked on Ebay M19 M12x15 60 degree wheel nuts are very common but I am not sure is they are strong enough. Will try Caterham in the morning...

Thanks grubbster just seen that but unfortunately the cone washer is out of stock....

I was checking the car over this afternoon in prepartion for a track day on 18th May. I found that two of the wheel nuts on the n/s/r wheel had stripped their threads and were loose! I subsequently found a third on the o/s/r wheel which had also stripped it's thread! Pays to check these things! However, I now need new wheel nuts to replace the damaged ones and will change all 16 for safety sake. Can anyone help me with what spec nuts I need please? I have a 1999 1.6 K Series Superlight with an imperial chassis and 13" 6j Athracites all round. The current wheel nuts are a 19mm hex and on the end of each nut it reads 12 and 1.5 which I take means the internal thread is M12x1.5mm(?) Naturally having had a look at Caterham Parts I am now confused as the nut I have appears similar to what they describe as "Wheelnut - Bulged Type - Ital Steel Wheels" (SKU77352B) http://caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=1325 . The one I would have thought would be suitable does not have the same cone seat as my existing nuts described as "Wheelnut - Stainless Steel - Metric) (SKU30W008A) http://caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=1346 . Update (Thanks to Grubbster): The stainless steel wheel nut fits with "Wheelnut Washer - Stainless Steel - Metric" (SKU30W009A) http://caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=1347 - However Caterham is out of stock.... Do you know of an alternative source? I need a set by next weekend...

I am hesitating as I am concerned that is an increased risk of the annoying K Series click, which I don't get with the standard exhaust. I am also on the verge* of having forged pistons fitted along with DVA's K15 Supersport 150 kit which will cost quite a bit.... My wife has sanctioned this work and I think a new and (in truth) unnecessary exhaust may trigger a raised eye brow or two! * when I say on the verge I mean late January 2016 such is Dave Andrews lead time for this work at the moment!!!!

Not sure what your comment means, but if there is something I should be aware of please share, before I spend my hard earned cash on one!

It may be worth getting a quote from Graham at Exhaust By Design. I received a recent quote for my 1.6 Superlight with the following specification, "manifold would be 11/2" primaries x4 into a 4-2-1 slip collector with tags. Into a 2" system with a repackable silencer". The manifold will be £500 and £300 for the silencer. That price includes fitting but will necessitate extending the Lambda sensor loom and supplying a new exhaust gasket. this looked like a very competitive price and the company is recommended by Dave Andrews.

I have a 1999 1.6 Superlight (EU2 SS ECU). If I have DVA's K15 SuperSport 150 kit fitted along with a new exhaust am I correct in thinking that with the std SS ECU there is no advantage to be obtained by having the car set up on a rolling road (post mods) as the ECU is NOT programable?

I have a 1999 1.6 Superlight (EU2 SuperSport ECU). I am thinking about having an Exhaust By Design (EBD) system fitted. I have been advised by them that the Lambda Sensor wiring will need to be extended (by me) as the sensor is relocated to just in front of the silencer. Can anyone advise me if this is an easy job to do? I presume it is a case of either purchasing a sensor with a longer loom or extending the orginal loom (if so, what gauge wire and connectors would you recommend - see comment below) In any case, I guess it will be necessary to drill a hole in the side skin to re route the loom and therefore it would be prudent to be able to use bullet connectors to minimise the size of hole in the side skin.

Dear F355GTS, Thank you for your reply. As suggested I reviewed your earlier post : "As you already have a wire going from the old oil pressure sender to the old guage you can use this wire as your sender wire and use the live off the back of the oil pressure guage to go to the otherside of the bulb". I also examined my car. What you suggest would work perfectly if I was leaving the low oil pressure sensor in the same vicinity. However, I remotely mounting it on the O/S/F engine mount arm in line with the dip stick(See photos below). The wire from the older sender will NOT reach the new location and I am not keen to start messing with the wiring loom to try to relocate the original wire to the new location. That is a good idea about using the live feed from the existing gauge; as that will be defunct with teh new mechanical gauge. Not sure what lurks behind the dashboard but will review this when I get there! Incidentally, I am led to believe the correct bolt size for mounting the remote sender here is M8x110 Where should I run the ground wire from the second terminal to? e.g. can i use one of the white metal bolts in the picture or should I aim to run it to somewhre on the engine?

Okay, I think we are getting there. Thank you to those of you who have BM'd me. I will use an "Add a circuit" connector to tap into a switched live power source. That leaves just a couple of obvious questions unanswered; My low pressure switch has two (blade) terminals NOT one as many of you have referred to, SO: Does it matter which terminal that the (ground) wire attaches to? NO Do I need to run a wire from the second terminal to the engine block of similar? YES Will the fact that the (metal) low pressure switch is bolted to the chassis / engine mount automatically provide a suitable earth? NO Thanks in advance