green george

As per the title, is this a straight forward swap?

Hi Jonathan, You are right. One terminal leads to the light (not the gauge which is mechanical) and the other terminal leads to an earth on the block. The earth appears to be good i.e does not move. George

Hi Jonathan, yes it has been working fine, having been installed by Chris at 7 Workshop, last year. I only mentioned that as I beleive that using LED's for direction indicators and lights sometimes generates its own problems.

Do you think it is fully bright? No, it appears to brighten when the engine starts and then stays at that level of increased brightness. With the ignition on and the engine not running: (I assume the light is now on.) Disconnect at the sender end the lead that runs from the sender to the gauge. What happens to the light? The light goes out and if I reconnect the lead it comes back on. Not, sure if this has any relevance, but I use a red LED as the low pressure warning light.

The good news is that the mechanical pressure gauge is reading a healthy 65 psi at idle and the engine sounds sweet, which leads to me to think that the switch may be faulty. The switch (Think Auto 20 psi switch part no.: EWS/1C @ £18.88) is nearly new. Is there a way of testing it? Or, is it simply a matter of purchasing another switch? I do have a multi tester, but would need to know which scale to use etc.... I have been working on the car today prepping the chassis for some POR/15 which has necessitated applying to the chassis POR15 Marine Clean and then the POR15 Metal Prep each washed off with copious amounts of water. Thinking the water may have shorted the switch (which is attached to the (offside engine mount), I have sprayed the spade terminals with WD40, but the light is still on. Any ideas?

Right, I am in the process of repainting the front suspension. I want to remove the front ARB and the headlight and mounts. I have tried the search engine but the "How do I" brings back too many irrelevant results; so please excuse my poor IT skills. Front ARB: I can see that it is mounted with two bolts each side. The car is currently on ramps so the suspension is bearing the weight of the car. Is it simply a matter of removing the four bolts? Can I do this without removing the radiator (really hope so!)? Headlight & mounts: The headlights appear to be mounted at teh front to the rear of the upper wishbone and at the rear by a clamp near the rearmost nosecone mounts. There appears to be a electrical connector I can split for the wiring. Is it simply a matter of: Separating the electrical connector(s) and Undoing the two mounts for each headlamp? Forewarned is forearmed! Many thanks George

Thanks

Hi Jonathan, Thanks for the link. I will check to see if I have t e rear link arm or just a forward link arm. In any case the forward link arm appears to have two mounting positions available on the inner wing in the arc of the wheel arch lip. There is an upper and a lower mount; although I think I would have to take the seats out to move the mounting point. Mine is fitted to the lower mount and was wondering why there are two positions and what affect this would have on the handling.

Hello I have noticed there are two mounting points for the forwards arm of the watts linkage. What's difference do the positions make? Thanks

That is perfect and answers my question, thank you. I have a classic dashboard so don't have the luxury of space! Also I want a mount I can use to film footage whilst using Harrys Lap Timer so unfortunately my search continues. Very nice car though.

Hi esslll, where do you place it on the dash? Do you have a picture? Looking at my dash it is pretty busy other than on the far left hand side.

Thanks Mankee, will do.

Thanks Joanthan

Thanks guys. Unfortunately a lot of the links in the attached thread were broken and there are so many Arkon and Herbert Richter mounts it is difficult to know which will work, without a specific model recommendation..

I use my iPhone (5C) to control my Go Pro and the mount I currently use attaches to the windscreen with an adjustable arm which is quite long. I would like to us Harry's Laptimer App and need a mount which will allow a good view forwards. I have tried my existing mount and it set the phone too far away from the windscreen to get a good picture and I am struggling to allow of the angle of the windscreen. The sucker is too large to fit to the scuttle top. So all in all my existing mount is not suitable for using the camera to record forwards. Can anyone recommend a suitable mount (as it is difficult to decide what will work relying on picture of the mounts in adverts)?

If they do fit, that would be excellent (cheap) news!

Cheers

One of my 7"? headlamps is loose on my 2000 7. Can anyone help me with the securing nut size? Presumeably AF? and will require a stubby open ended spanner?

Mary at REIS is very helpful. I have their track day covered bolted onto my insurance through them and I am very happy with them; although fortunately I have not had to make a claim.

Looking for a set in good condition. Black spokes polished rims.

Hi Ben2 hope you don't mind a small post hijack but, I would definitely be interested to hear Andrews' thoughts and response to TomB's Q's. I have always fancied Nitrons, but have been put off by what appear to be frequent and relatively expensive service intervals on the £1400 NTR1's when I do only about 1500 miles per annum. George

Thanks for that. I popped down to the garage and nipped it up; I must have loosened it slightly when I removed the breather pipe as they are the same thread; despite using two 13mm spanners.

Right, I am in the process of fitting a one way valve into the Apollo breather pipe and the male pice fitted through the cam cover was slightly loose. I don't want to bugger about with too much until I understand how it is fitted into the cam cover. Can anyone adivse me whether it is a left or right handed thread (I presume it is threaded as there is a 13mm section to hold it steady when fitting the breather pipe).

Hi Nick I haven't got the receipt to hand but think it was just over £100 all in with the L7C discount without postage as I picked it up. I popped in yesterday and bought a shorter run of Aeroquip hose to go between the sender and gauge for £22.95 with the correct fittings which I thought was excellent value. George

Thanks guys, I am near Think Auto tomorrow so will pop in and buy 5'06 - 6' of bradied hose with the right fittings. Revilla, the offside (drivers side) engine mount has a hole in it which will allow you to mount the oil pressure sender. Requires a 110mm bolt.