Robert Cadiz

The DRL (day time running lights)

JW Speaker 8630 Evo as installed in my 7. I can get pictures of the wiring if required. As can be seen the LED unit fits in the 5.75" housing very well.

The additional centre hole was a brilliant addition, even better a small allen key fits between the screen and the mount, so once in place nothing had to be removed in oder to lock the mirror in places. Robert

They are for sale in the UK http://www.mobilecentre.co.uk/ (and probably other places) they might be able to help you with the questions that you have. Robert

I'll get some photos. I'm currently away for the festive period but will be back on 29th and sort something out then.

I had tightened the torx bolt but still, I was never happy with the standard setup and it never stopped the vibration. Link to the thread I found on pistonheads. As I mentioned in the first post, Ivan who made the brackets is on BC. http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=101&t=1424538

I have been very frustrated with the poor choice of mounts for mirrors on the 7. If mounted to the side screens they vibrate too much and at (cough) speed they are pushed in so you loose your field of vision. The windscreen frame mounts stop the vibration but you can't open the side screens fully. All very annoying. A little googling came up with a side screen hinge combination mirror mount. And would you believe it made by Ivan (Eccles on this forum). He printed them, came with all the right holes for a SPA mirror and was simple to fit. I won't go through the hassle of getting the mirror position right when you're the only person working on the car!!! I cannot believe that such an elegant solution is not a standard Caterham product. It barely vibrates, it allows the doors to open fully without the mirror touching the screen, doesn't impede view through the side screen. I have taken a few pictures here. Also note my hinges are spaces out by 15mm to raise the side screen. I have since shortened the screws so they don't protrude from the bracket and made the nylock nuts captive (which are already recessed into the bracket). Once again, Many thank to Ivan for all his help. Robert

I have recently installed these https://www.jwspeaker.com/products/led-headlights-model-8630-evolution/ through Andy at PGM. The lights are E-marked and passed MOT a few days ago. All I can say is that they are better than other LED and far superior to the standard lights. The beam pattern is quite different and when you go to full beam the dip beam stays on. The indicators are integrated and much more visible than the originals. And no they are not cheap but what price do you put on being able to see? No need to take my word for it, your welcome to come and see the car in the evening. Robert

I think freestyle had a vented front cycle wing and I believe that there are some benefits for reduced front end lift, obviously more of an affect at higher speeds. There are some vented on ebay but was really looking to just modify mine rather than go to the cost of new or CSR style. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wheel-Arch-Wing-Caterham-Westfield-Locost-Dax-Kit-Car-Arches-Fibre-Glass-Vented-/142013828029?hash=item2110af0bbd:g:IkwAAOSwo8hTqH8d

This is my favourite, used on the motorbike and in the Caterham. Scrunces up tiny so will fit in a pocket. http://www.edzlayering.com/product/mens-windshell-innershell-top-black-grey-zip/

Thinking of putting cutouts or vents in my cycle wings. Any one have any nice photos of what they have done to theirs?

Hi Garth, I would also be interested in updates as you finalise your wing mirror project. Robert

X6 rims and tyres now sold The 370z 19" rims and tyres still for sale. Open to offers.

Currently on Ebay - am willing to deliver locally http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172022132627?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172022134918?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 Robert

hmmm..... Each filter manufactureur only recommends their oil and cleaner. No surprise. Reading through a few MX sites their choice of oil and cleaner is based on various parameters, Filter material, Oil type (ie synthetic, plant etc) and whether the oil contains Alcohol and or Tackifier. Each has its pros and cons, each has its supporters, so the K&N Recharger Filter Care Service Kit should be fine....... Robert

Hi Paul, Thank you for the advice. I was not thinking of putting in an air intake into the nose cone. I do have an filter cleaning and refresh kit from K&N. I am guessing that the oil for a K&N foam filter would be the same for any foam filter. I saw a thread on pistonheads about a bonnet cut out. http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1310541 The picture in the final post is the look I am aiming to achieve. All the Best, Robert

Thanks for all the advice and experience. Have gone for the wrap and as the engine is coming out I am going to fit a heat insulating kit. Next will be the will be the bonnet cut out. The Dremel is going to get a work out! Robert

Hi JV, A little internet research is a dangerous thing! I have looked at the silicone coating and some sites recommend that the pipes are coated in this first prior to wrapping and then coating again. There are also some concerns that the coating flakes off and does not last particular well, as well as needing several coats. Did you paint the header first with the silicone coating? Have you found the coating flakes? Did you apply several coats? Many Thanks, Robert

Hi JV, Thank you for the links. I have looked at wrapping the primaries but stayed away from this after experience of it getting wet on my race bikes. The other option I am currently looking at is: http://www.zircotec.com/page/-_primary_range/91 Only problem is the price at 320 + VAT for just the headers! The cowl inside the nose cone has already been removed. I have looked at heat shielding the footwell but it is nice in winter and would really like to get more air moving the through the engine bay for summer. However if no real solution can be offered then heat shield it will be. Thanks, Robert

Hi, I have an R400 Duratec and I am thinking about adding a bonnet cut out for the air filter / throttle bodies so that the engine can breathe cooler air. I plan to do this in conjunction with a nose cone cut out behind the radiator. I have been told that I will require a different air filter and that potentially you can suffer from water ingress. I use my car all year round and in all weather (it is my only transport). Any experience of this and how likely the water ingress is? What can be done to minimise this? I have also been told that the nose cone cut out will help the airflow through the radiator but creates 'dead' air around the engine. What can be done to improve the airflow though the engine bay? Particularly as the drivers footwell already gets very hot. Thanks, Robert

About Brake Feel. I have had a lot of the same issues as you with brake feel and pedal positioning for heel toe. I have had a lot of help from: Tim at http://www.sevensandclassics.com/ as well as Andy at http://www.pgmsussex.com/index.html I would give either of them a call and discuss your requirements. Although my car is primarily a road car and my only car, over my first year of ownership I have slowly compromised it more towards track work. For me this compromise has not reduced its cross country capability and only increased my general driving enjoyment. For me it took a long time to get the pads bedded back in after a lot of use through the winter and this helped with the feel but ultimately the pedal travel was too much, while the feel was still wooden. A full bleed of the system and a change of fluid type also helped a little. Both Andy and Tim have various pad and compound options to help change the pedal feel. I am still with the original pads and will change the pads as per Andy’s recommendation after the winter. For pedal travel / heel toe I found that I had to move to an uprated m/c and reservoir cap. This worked fine on the road with the brake pedal height adjusted so that with a decent press of the brake, the throttle was easy to blip. However on track this does not work so well because a good hard press of the brake left the pedal well below the throttle. Andy also has a solution for this if your car has a metric chassis. All the best Robert

Hi Brain, Each car / engine will be very different and where you set shift lights very much down to your preference. I also had a recent power map to help me decide. For me enjoyment of the car really comes from chasing the limiter and my shift lights are set up that way. If the lights are not on, then I'm pootling. If they are flashing them I'm in the millennium falcon ;) I have two progammes, one for road and track. My Track settings - green change down light at 4500, this is about 1000 rpm before the torque curve starts to really dip. First up change light 1200 rpm from limiter All flashing lights 200 rpm from limiter. My Road settings - I like the track ones so much I never switch, plus the module is a b$%^& to get to! green at 2500, all flashing 800 rpm from limiter. Have fun! Robert

To Everyone at the Brands today, Thank you for a great time. A special thank you to Tony, Bob and Rob in garage 10 and the guys who chatted to me in garage 9 and 11. I can't remember all the names but thanks for the tools, advice and general good chat. Hope I can catch up with you guys again. I had a great morning untill I lost the exhaust packing and was black flagged for noise. No worries, straight down to Sevens and Classics who immediately offered me an exhaust to borrow for the afternoon. Another item to add to the list of 'to do' ;) All the best, Robert

I'll be there too. My first event with the club! Very excited to meet everyone and drive the GP circuit, a first for me! Robert

Thanks for the great links and the comments on cooling. I did talk to TTS but they were rather 'cagey' about giving me quote. Robert.