Robert Cadiz

I am going to have someone make it. I also posted on Facebook and lots of recommendation for Sileck in Kent so I'm going to see them and cost it. Many Thanks, Robert

Hi, My 7 is going to be rebuilt this winter due to continuing electrical problems. I'm going to have a new loom made for it and would appreciate recommendations. Many Thanks, Robert

Penskes from Simon at Meteor. And a tracsport LSD. Transformed my car.

I'm in that love hate it place, I want to keep it as I'm slowly starting to get it where I want it. It will be road and track use but track biased. Because of winter use its getting rusty and electrically it's not trust worthy. So it will be panels off and chassis powder coated, new panels and rebuilt from original parts. It's that rebuild part that I want to put in the nice to haves.

After an increasing number of failures I've decided I've two options left for the caterham: 1. Torch it and take the insurance money 2. Start from scratch. After much deliberation and pressure from the wife to take option 1 I've decided on a nut and bolt rebuild once the summer is over. Does anyone have a jobs list? What are the suggestions for nice to haves? Things like: rivet nut the scuttle, connector blocks in the bulk head for the loom, brackets in the frame so a cage can be added later, removable chassis bracing for ease of propshaft removal. Thanks for your help and ideas. Robert

I like calling you though :)

I agree with the first post. Speak to Simon at Meteor Motorsports. I had an interesting afternoon with him and fun drive to and from his place. As mentioned in another post there are just so many factors. The biggest is you and what you want. What I want from my car and the way I like it to handle may not suit you at all. So again, speak to Simon (or who ever you choose). Get the car properly set up as per his recommendation. Speak to Simon again and adjust the car till you get the best compromise for you. It's an ongoing process.

Road and track but track biased. I'll have a look for the thread

I have Caterham 4 piston caliper on the front and single piston rear caliper. Just found that both front disks are cracked. Would appreciate recommendation for disks front and rear. Also going to put new pads on. Currently running RS15 front and standard Delphi on the rear. I am thinking of going to PFC 01 front and PFC 81 rear. I run PFC my motorbikes and love the feel. Anyone any experience of PFC on their Caterham. Many Thanks, Robert

I'm interested as well.

Much appreciated, thank you. Will look to do just that. Thanks, Robert

I have these seats https://caterhamparts.co.uk/seats/4144-seat-composite-carpet-slr-500-fixed.html in my car. I have lowered floors but I feel that I would like to sit a little lower in the car. Has anyone tried fixing the seat directly to the floor and also changing the angle? Is the only option to go for a foam seat? Thanks, Robert

When you go to collect your car, see if they have another in the showroom that you can drive with the same brake set up / tyre setup. If you experience the same issues it may give you a better idea of what you need to do to change it for the better. And no doubt, a trip to upgrades ;)

I have an older 7 but have had a real saga with my brakes to find feel and baking power. What are you experiencing? Early lock up? One wheel or two? Which wheel? No feel as in small changes in brake pedal movement results in light braking to lock up? Or lots of pedal movement, no lock up but no braking performance? What brake setup do you have? Standard brakes and standard deplhi pads? Standard master cylinder? What tyres, what pressures? Sorry, all the questions. First thing to check is for glazing (I'm sure you have done this already). Light use, depending on pads material and disks can result in glazing that can be removed with some fine grain sand paper. Sometimes it takes time to bed in the pads (you did say the car has less than 1000 miles). Roughing up the disks and pads can help. I find that with increased temperature, brake feel and performance is also increased (my brake set up is more track biased and at sensible speeds I can't get enough heat into them to work properly) I also found my brakes sensitive to corner weights and rake so I run a little more rake and front axle weights even. Anyway, hopefully you find something to work for you. I find Caterhams are very sensitive to set up and personality (what works for me might not work for you). Robert

Just thought I would update on where I've gone with the car. Thank you very much to all those who helped I'm the forum and in private. Engine: there was room for improvement on the fueling side so going for bigger throttle bodies and injectors. 45mm to 48mm ported with Bosch green. I'll let you know what the results are after mapping. Gearing: no change as all the individual ratios were already low for acceleration. With the rev range available changing up doesn't drop the engine out of peak torque. Suspension: change from standard blistiens to Penske 2 way with digressive damping curve and polly bushes. Simon of Meteor Motorsport really helped to define what I want to do in the car and the suspension that will help give it to me. Differential: again, thanks Simon for introducing me to the tracsport diff. If you've read Simon's updates about racing one you'll understand. Basically a mechanical plated diff that is able to work like an open diff on corner entry and lock up on exit. Thus helping to eliminate understeer while maximising grip. Hopefully it will all be together for Brands GP and I can update again. I haven't gotten​ around to the aero screen, half doors and venting the cycle wings but that's going to happen! Once again, thanks to everyone who took the time to offer​ advice. Robert

I did look at a supercharger option. And initially the cost looks very good. But then the engine needs to be rebuilt with low compression pistons and the cost no longer looks so good. I tried I sequential gearbox today and was surprised by how useable it was when in traffic. Robert

So I'm looking for 6 speed gearbox​ options. Not a sequential. Seen options for 6 speed H pattern from quaife, Caterham and Drenth that are direct replacement for ford type9. What ratios? What about straight cut gears?

Car always feels fast the first day home. But after a day, just not fast enough. Cycle Si, hope you're still happy with the lights​ :) car has been mapped at Northampton Motorsports, Troy says I'm limited buy the age of the engine as it's an early duratec. Checked the build report, car has a quaife 3.92 LSD.

Nissan Micra? I think you guys are crazy! I have a Mazda 2 for the shopping run but still prefer the Caterham unless it's snowing ;)

Limiter cuts in at 8200. Could run higher but there were no real power gains on the dyno. I will look into gearbox and diff options. A clear aero screen and half doors will be the first purchase. Thanks Robert

So, buy a super bike. I race bikes for a hobby with ThunderSportGB​ and Bemsee. I have raced in superstock 1000 on an ex 2011 Padgett's fireblade with top 10 finishes. I have a 2006 blade which is built to hrc endurance spec. I currently race a minitwin and have podium and race wins in that class. I know what fast is on a superbike and buying one won't make my Caterham go any faster. As for driver training i have two IAM qualifications. I have taken numerous instructor sessions at trackdays. I have also booked days with CAT and carlimits. I know there is loads of room to improve my skill as a driver and that i am working on. I'd race cars and bikes if i had the time and money. I have little of either. I know the car is fast. At trackdays it is brilliant but i have to work hard on the brakes and in the corners. Which is also a lot of fun. But i also want to launch down the straights with an OMG! From the passenger. So an aero screen, less drag. Seems a sensible cost effective option. Maybe gearing, I've seen just over 144 on the gps so can afford to loose a little top speed. The car tips the scales at 565 kg. What are the options to make it lighter. Im not a fatty but at 83 kg losing a few pounds would always help. Or on the scale of diminishing returns am i on a loosing battle? Thanks, Robert

So I have a 2008 duratec r400 that has been upgraded to 240 bhp. It has a BGH sporting close 5 speed gearbox. It is by no means slow, I just want it to go faster! Not just corner or stop faster, I want it to accelerate and go down the straights faster. In the words of Walter Rohrl: "A car is just fast enough when you stand in front of it in the morning and are afraid to unlock it." So apart from selling it and getting a 620r, what are my options? I still want it driveable and reliable. I feel like a 2.3 or 2.5 would suit the gearbox well but without the obvious "throw loads of money at the engine" what else is there? Different diff? Top speed is not that important. Six speed gearbox? Thanks :) Robert

So for the above posts..... I like the lights and for me, on my 7, the preferred option. You're very welcome to have an alternative / better option. I was only able to take photos of the lights against my garage wall and don't have another car with standard lights or other option LED / HID lights to compare. Further it is quite foggy at the moment so showing how the lights work on the road rather futile. All the Best and Happy New Year, Robert

Main Beam

Dip beam.