Nillbymouth

I'd agree with JV. Mine worked perfectly at all speeds then just suddenly stopped working. There was no stage where it worked intermitently.

New sensor arrived from CC yesterday. Before fitting it I connected it to a 12V supply and tested the output. It showed 0.33v when LED was off and 0.77v when I put it near some metal and the LED was on. The old one showed 0v regardless of whether the LED was on. Fitted it and I now have a working speedo. I've just done a bit of investigation and think that this is the actual sensor: http://uk.farnell.com/schneider-electric/xs108b3nal2/inductive-sensor-2-5mm-12-24vdc/dp/2455529 From Farnell it's £43.47 instead of Caterhams £69.60 but you'd have to put your own plug on it.

It does as it is supposed to do - flashes as the wheel turns - on when the high point of the reluctor is near the sensor and off at the low points. I even tried moving the sensor to both extremes - almost touching and as far as possible while still lighting up. I've now spoken to Caterham who also suspect it's the sensor. A new one is on the way and I'll update once I've tried it.

Not fixed yet but I've come to the conclusion that it's the sensor or sensor wire that is broken. I disconnected the speedo and checked for continuity through the loom from where the sensor plugs in to the speedo plug and that is okay. I then connected the sensor to 12v and checked the output. Although this is a digital output I'm sure that when the sensor light comes on it should be outputting about 5v. I get nothing. This test may be wrong so if someone in the know can correct me - please do. So, I'm just about to order a new sensor and see if that fixes it.

For long journeys on motorways I use Etymotic HF2 earphones as they also act as earplugs. They're not bluetooth though and the wire is only just long enough for me to put my phone on the tunnel top under the dash in front of the gear lever.

Yet another speedometer not working post but I've searched previous threads and suspect my problem is slightly different: 1. Sigma 140 with electronic speedometer. 2. Has, until yesterday, worked flawlessly with none of the dropping out that others have mentioned. 3. While driving yesterday, one minute it was working, the next it wasn't - there was no period where it was intermittant. 4. Digital miles readout still shows but is not recording any more miles. 5. When I turn the ignition on the speedometer needle 'blips' so it is getting power. 6. Checking the sensor at the rear wheel, it lights ups as the wheel turns. 7. Unplugging the sensor and checking the +ve and -ve wires its showing 12v so it is being fed the correct voltage. 8. No sign of crimped or broken wires. There is talk on other threads of an internal fuse in the speedometer but I guess that is okay since the needle moves when I turn the ignition on. I could try the new ground mod but since I've not had problems before this I'm not sure that is the case. So what can be the cause? Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

that is why I did it into the tunnel side - because I could see where the drill was going. The outside of the footwell I had no idea of what I'd be drilling into

I fitted one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CARAVAN-MOTORHOME-ELASTICATED-STORAGE-NET-MAGAZINE-NET-/141584843658?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item20f71d438a to the tunnel side of the pasenger footwell. There are frame tubes but you can remove the tunnel top to see where they are before you drill. The pocket is cheaper than the one you show and I think looks neater due to the black plastic surround

Thanks Stridey, that looks ideal and for 30 quid, it's worth a try. From some of the review comments it sounds quite thick so would provide the extra reach required for the pedals.

Just to update. Having looked a little closer, my seat is as far forward as it can possibly go, I guess because I've got lowered floors. In front of the seat there is a frame tube which is above the floor. Fully forward, the seat is only a couple of mm off the frame. Fully back, the seat is touching the rear bulkhead. Therefore there is no scope for adjustment either way. As mentioned previously this is a 2014 SV with leather seats. The only 2 options are move the pedals in the pedal box or use a cushion.

Excellent info AntonyH. Sounds like the perfect solution. Thanks

I see your point about driving position. At the moment the seat, steering, pedal distance seems perfect for me. Moving the pedals closer may mess that up but I guess I'll only know if I try. Thanks to everyone for your responses. I'll have a play with the options at the weekend and it certainly seems like I don't need to drill new holes which is a bonus.

Yes, I will still be okay if I move the seat forward. As for the pedal box, I didn't realise there were different settings, I'll have a look when I get home at the weekend. I could also try a cushion but it depends if she would be comfortable with that - must admit that would be the simplest solution. Thanks all.

I've got an SV with leather seats and with the seat as forward as possible my wife can only just reach the pedals. Ideally I need another 1 to 2 inches of travel. What's the easiest/neatest way? Can I somehow adjust the runners or do I need to drill 4 more holes in the floor?

Nope. Mine adjust upwards. Doing it down would be impossible. Can you rethread the straps through the buckles to make it adjust upwards?

Hopefully Martin is correct but when I built my Supersport last year, Derek was insistent that the connector was tied to the passenger side wiper motor but it wasn't - it was actually in the boot! Apparently there are 2 different looms with different places for the 12v connection. 160 may be different though.

These are my thoughts: It only happens under accelleration going forward and decelleration in reverse. Under these conditions all parts between the engine and rear diff twist. The twist will be the same for accellerating forwards and decellerating backwards. It only happens < 2500 rpm. Are you sure or is it that other noises such as engine noise drowns out the ticking over this speed? Are you positive it's engine speed related rather than road speed? If it only happens under accelleration then both are increasing. Personally, I'd check all engine, gearbox and diff mounts to make sure they are secure and there is no movement. I'd then check all moving parts between the engine drive belt and the diff for a small clearance that could close as the driveline twists and moves. Maybe take the car for a drive with the tunnel top cover removed so that you can hear and see the gearbox and propshaft. Note that I'm no expert so what I say may be rubbish but worth checking if nothing else works!

Sorry I can't help but please post pictures and instructions when you complete it because I'm interested in this as well

An update to this. I decided to just disconnect the starter wire from the ignition switch as my car also has a starter button. Used a voltmeter to determine which wire and when I pulled the connector the switch fell in half with 3 tiny springs and a small metal plate landing in the footwell ! Hmmm. or maybe other words were muttered! So, I made a note of which wires went to which connector then unbolted the lock from the steering column to remove it from the car. The switch unit at the end of the lock had split in half. It is actually held together in the lock unit by 3 metal tabs and I guess mine was not as secure as it should be and that is why the spring had failed as the switch had slightly come apart. I reassembled the switch and squeezed the metal tabs in a little to hold the switch unit better. The return spring on the starter setting is now working again. However, I've left the connector for the starter disconnected just in case it comes loose again.

Many thanks to both of you for the info.

Thanks but I've already got a starter button. Caterham fit a normal ignition switch so you can start either on the button or the key. I need the ignition key for security - this a road car, not a track car. Suppose I could pull the starter wire from the ignition barrel if I can work out which one. That would mean it wouldn't matter if the key is turned too far.

The return spring seems to have failed in my ignition barrel. Now, after turning the ignition on, there is no pressure to move the key from on position to starter and there is no return spring. I now have to be careful not to leave the starter running or even knock the key into starter position. Can someone please tell me how to fix this - assuming an easy fix. My car is a Sigma 140 Supersport if that makes a difference.

Do you want the labels for just the IVA or permanent? If just for the IVA then do what I did - cut out some small bits of paper and write "horn" "high beam" etc. on them and then stick on the dash with cellotape! Nothing more sophisticated is required. I read somewhere that their car passed IVA with post-it notes stuck on the dash!

To be fully legal with your Yeti you need the plated weight to be no more than 2000kg. Not sure where or how but you can get trailers re-plated. Be aware but the are lot of stories in the horse community of police checking up on this so probably worth doing.

I suspect that the aero filler design has changed. I had a look at mine at the weekend - a Supersport built last year with the aero filler included. There is no larger notch to go in the 12 o'clock position - there are 4 notches at 12, 3, 6, 9 and all are the same size. Also the flap is only about 1.5 inches from the cap - close enough that I can easily open it with my finger