Jason Plato Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 Hello  I'm moving my damper fixing to the "through center or tube" position - to hopefully reduce the potential for failier of the tube. My question is - what bolts spec should I be using ? 10.9 / 11.9 / 12.9 or another 🤔 Cheeky bit - I need 2 bolts (and nuts) 5.5" long x 1/2 thick preferably of a fine tread . Anyone got some or name a supplier for a donation to Ntl 🤔  I'm away from my Pc for 2 days now .......  Ta Dave  C7 TOP Powered by Hellier Performance 😬 South Wales AO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WILL FLY Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 If you know all the details then AHC in Camberley will have them, give them a ring 01276 709069 or see the website here Namrick are another company here I thought you needed different length dampers to do this though. Roy. See willfly.net for more info. If you don't spin you ain't trying Happiness is knowing you have just a tad too much power  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 Good move Dave. I did this 3 years ago. Jason's 1995 war horse has done 80000+ miles with dampers like that on one tube - no problems. The tear off's (forgive the description) on the first lower mounting tubes are not to be considered safe IMHO. Hants (north) / Berkshire club here Area meeting pics here My Racing here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WILL FLY Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 Steve Were Jasons dampers mounted underneath originally or were they the shorter ones designed to bolt to the tube ? Are they te fixed rate springs or variable rate ? Roy. See willfly.net for more info. If you don't spin you ain't trying Happiness is knowing you have just a tad too much power  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 They have always been the shorter dampers fixed through the tube centre - I don' t think Jason's tube even has the lower mounts. His tube is the stronger than the early versions one though. These are the non-progressive type - as are mine since 2002. Mine had both mountings from purchase BTW. Hants (north) / Berkshire club here Area meeting pics here My Racing here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WILL FLY Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 So I can't do this with mine then as I have the longer dampers with the progressive springs. Roy. See willfly.net for more info. If you don't spin you ain't trying Happiness is knowing you have just a tad too much power  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Walker Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 I think I may have the two bolts that you seek in my garage, finding them is the problem IIRC they are 1/2" UNF about 4" long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Roy, You can't do it unless you change to shorter dampers and loose the progressive 'benefits'. Another option would be to give the tube to Arch and ask them to make it suitably strong around the lower damper mount areas... Hants (north) / Berkshire club here Area meeting pics here My Racing here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beelzebub Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Dave. S'cuse me being nosey. What make & length of dampers are you using ? I was considering doing this with my Freestyle supplied alloy bodied Avo's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Wong1697456877 Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Why did the lower fixing ever exist? It looks obviously weaker than the through the tube fixing. Was there a need to increase damper travel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WILL FLY Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Wasn't it done to accomodate the longer damper and springs when the variable rate springs were introduced. Roy See willfly.net for more info. If you don't spin you ain't trying Happiness is knowing you have just a tad too much power  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Bees Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 I don't see why changing to variable rate springs would require a longer spring/damper combo. I thought it was more of a geometry issue, tho' I can't provide any logical explanation for that either! Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 I heard at the time that the springs used / needed would not fit into a short config. I can't see why having a longer damper but attaching it lower down n the tube would affect the geometry. All it does is move the point of force lower on the tube which I can't see as being desirable but probably not a massive negative either. But then to it tack on a mounting as was done - poor!  Hants (north) / Berkshire club here Area meeting pics here My Racing here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Bees Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 It seems amazing that it was cheaper/easier/better to get different length dampers made and add the tack-on mounting bodge (alleged) than it would have been to get the correct length springs! But then amazing things do happen... Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Wong1697456877 Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Exactly. If they went to the trouble to get bespoke dampers from Bilstein, why not get them the right length. There must be another reason for wanting increased damper travel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Durrant Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 If I remember I'll ask Jez Coates when he visits the Surrey Area Meet next Thursday  Mark D Comp Sec  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerrypike Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 dave you do need shorter dampers to fit the "through tube" bolts i moved mounts when i changed to nitrons and AHC had the bolts on the shelf-sorry can't find the invoice with spec- but they aren't easy to find see recent thread on de dion failures for reasons to change  jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 They increased the length to get the progressive rate setup on. The progressive rate springs are 14" long (and don't work as the initial rate is way to low at just 90lb/ft). The earlier type were 12". The std bolts which pass through the centre of the tube are an ordinary 8.8 Bouncy Castles at track days anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted January 16, 2006 Author Share Posted January 16, 2006 AHC = instock and ordered  Many thanks Will  Dave  C7 TOP Powered by Hellier Performance 😬 South Wales AO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Bees Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 Why does that mean they "don't work" Arnie? It just means that the allegedly-useless too-soft part of the spring is fully compressed all the time, just as if there were a helper spring in the system. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WILL FLY Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 As far as I can see, there are at least two reasons stopping you bolting the longer dampers to the middle hole in the De Dion tube. 1. Increased rear ride height by approx 2", you may be able to adjust some of this out depending on how high you run the front ride height,. 2. Possibility of the De Dion tube hitting the chassis rails on full droop. Roy. See willfly.net for more info. If you don't spin you ain't trying Happiness is knowing you have just a tad too much power  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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