shn7 Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 I'm looking for some high temperature sealant to use to seal the joints between the primaries and the collector on my Powerspeed 4:2:1 system. I've found a few that arerated up to 300C but I don't know how hot the pipes get. Any ideas? Anyone measured the temp with one of those infra red pyrometer thingies? Steve. Edited by - Steve Newman on 25 Jun 2005 07:22:47 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 I was running the turbo outlet of a diesel engine on test up to 650+ degrees C today if that helps. The manifold and turbo were glowing red Ian Green and Silver Roadsport 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinwhitcher Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 Steve use normal clear silicon sealant, thats what dave @ powerspeed advises, no problems at all, mine doesn't need any. Martin MW 51 CAT Superlight No.171 now known as:Superlight DVA 207 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Corb Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 DONT USE SILICON IF YOU HAVE A CAT *eek* Silicon poisons the cat substrate. BC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted June 23, 2005 Author Share Posted June 23, 2005 Bob, No cat so not a problem. Martin, That's what Dave used when he fitted mine 500 - 600miles ago and it's leaking from at least two of the joints. Hence I'm looking for something better. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinwhitcher Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 the exhuast stuff goes hard, falls out and is messy, my shout would be re apply more silicon and see if it lasts longer. Martin MW 51 CAT Superlight No.171 now known as:Superlight DVA 207 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jorgen Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 Dont know if this helps. My xflow on carbs have exhaust manifold temperature in the region of 250 degree celcious. Meassured at idele speed with a termocouple. Not to precise but my purpose was not to measure the precise temperature but to assess the exhaust temperature from the individual cylinders. Jorgen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 As I've posted elsewhere - I use instant-gasket available at Halfrauds. It lasts for a while - but if you've got movement in the joints (and you will have if you've got a gap) then nothing lasts forever. I fillet the gap with sections of beer-can - but again, it's only temporary and needs redoing every so often. I started with Exhaust Gum - but it's useless (worse-than) - it dries to a solid and then crumbles in no time flat. Absolute waste of money. I can't actually see an application (other than heating-flues) where there would be an absence of vibration. Pah. Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazzled Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 Myles this is getting wierd - first its fuel filler flaps now its exhausts! Nice to know exhaust gum is useless. i thought as much last night as i took my Cat off and fitted the CC supplied 4-2-1 adaptor. The gum has now dried and is crumbling nicely ! As for using B&Q silicone sealant I'm not convinced that will be much better. I'll ask the manufacturer tomorrow if they think its up to the job and post the answer here. Incidentally - by removing the Cat do i need to do anything else to the car ie engine tune wise? Numpty question i know but its only 2 weeks old. ( Mind you 1800 miles in 12 days ain't bad going...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted June 23, 2005 Author Share Posted June 23, 2005 Myles, I'd read you site about this which is why I've started researching trying to find a VHT sealant that remains flexible. I've got a short list if 2 at the moment: 1. Everbuild HEATMATE here rated to 300C 2. HT Flexseal Silicone Sealant here rated to 350C but 3 times the price. 3. Oh did I say two options, well never mind - an Intumescent sealant that expands when exposed to heat above here but I don't have any temperature ratings for this and worry about it expanding into the pipes/exhaust and causing a problem. If I've not heard from Powerspeed in the morning I'll try and get time to phone Dave and seek his views. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 If you (Myles?) go to the trouble of using a wideband lambda sensor, it might be worth considering a "O2 sensor safe" type of silicon, eg Loctite 5920. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 I recently used some Loctite exh paste which seems to work OK. It comes in a tube like gasket cement. It's not yet fully hard unlike the clay based compounds which are, as others have said, useless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 Adam - the wb is waaay upstream of the sealant. Don't think this should be an issue. Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted June 24, 2005 Author Share Posted June 24, 2005 Just bought some Wynns gasket maker which is rated to 270C with 300C intermittent. This was easy to obtain so I will try it. If that fails then I'll look again. BOSS do you know the Loctite product number? Is it 5920 which I read about this morning but couldn't find when looking this morning. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL MARRIOTT Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 I don't think that you will get a paste to do the job as the exhaust movement will defeat any application. Myles has hit on one approach, ie the infill with a bit of beercan, but what you really need is a flexible gasket to fill the gap, sort of thing you will see on boiler bodies, problem with that is getting it into location. The ultimate solution would be to find an outfit with pipe rollers and get them to redo the male and female ends to form a good fit, the exhaust deposits will take up the rest. Paul M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barbarossa Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 Why not find someone with a tube expander and get the tings to fit properly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 IMO, the tubes are already quite a close fit, if they were made any tighter I don't think I'd be able to get the exhaust together or take it apart again! Mine does leak a little because the fit is not gas-tight but to be honest there is not much of a gap. Also I am not entirely convinced that the leak is the source of whatever noise caused me to be black flagged at Donington - I still need to talk to Dave about it. Noise apart - I am very pleased with the exhaust, particularly the appearance and extra performance. Roadsport build photo's here Le Mans 2004 photo's here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now