Leadership Team RogNeedham Posted June 11, 2005 Leadership Team Share Posted June 11, 2005 originally had a std 1700 Xflow with std clutch and box..no problems. In Jan/Feb of this year I swapped this for an 1800 all steel xflow (Ex Anthony Burgess? I think, Rob Grigsby). Rob told me up front thath the clutch was a cermetallic device which only needed depressing so far.......... having swapped the engine, on the 2nd run the original clutch cable snapped c. 3 inches from the clutch arm end. I the nbought two replacements from CC. The first new cable went within 100 miles...admittedly whilst reversing up a very steep drive (right Mr Blakeman 😬). I replaced this one which lasted a further 700 miles until today when it snapped *mad* I've spoken to Rob who tells me that he never had a problem with his clutch cables...according to CC it is a standard Sierrra cable ( is it 🤔 🤔) What am i doing wrong 🤔...my clutch cable consumption is marginally worse than the fuel consumption (which I Knew about) ideas anyone *confused* *confused* *confused* Rog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
se7enmad Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 You may need to adjust the angle of the fork a little to diminsh leverage. Non standard clutches can put a lot of leverage on the clutch cable. If the problem persists it may be wortwhile thinking of a hydraulic clutch 🤔 Antonella 1998 Caterham Classic my NEW site here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Perry Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 I am surprised they snap when that new as its a thick cable I am baffled by this. My steel crossflow has never had one in 15 years of use, although I do carry a spare Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 Is it worth fitting a pedal stop so you can't overload the cable? Roadsport build photo's here Le Mans 2004 photo's here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Perry Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 Yes, if you don't have one, then you should fit one as it is vital with that clutch set up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JampJ Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 If they are all breaking at the same point, as you say, about three inches from the fork end, it seems that they are rubbing on the end of the threaded adjustment tube. As already stated, I would check the angle of the cable in relation to the fork. Get someone to check the operation at that point as you operate the pedal. Are you using the original fork? Cheers J&J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team Mcalvert Posted June 11, 2005 Leadership Team Share Posted June 11, 2005 Have you made sure that the end of the cable is well greased so that it can pivot OK where it is connected to the pedal? Otherwise, the cable gets bent each time you press it, rather than pivoting as should hapen. I had exactly this problem a couple of years ago and the cable broke exactly as you describe. Since then, I put a dab of grease on once every 6 months and it has not happened since. All the best, Michael. Edited by - Mcalvert on 11 Jun 2005 09:48:03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 Roger, You haven't said which clutch you have. If it's a twin plate cermatallic paddle unit or a heavy duty single plate the pressure plate is much heavier than the standard unit. You should have a clutch stop fitted. With the engine ticking over put light pressure on the gear lever pushing into first. Then slowly depress the clutch pedal until it goes into gear. Note how far the clutch is depressed. You need to fit a pedal stop so the clutch will not go further than this. I suspect that the stop point will be an inch of travel. I also suspect you're pushing it down much further than that. If correct the reason for the cables breaking is the angle of the pedal is causing the inner cable to rub against the outer. The best long term solution is to fit a hydraulic unit. The later pedal boxes have an aperature for a clutch master cylinder, the earlier ones need drilling. Road & Rally sell a Wilwood clutch slave cylinder which "sucks" insted of pushing and this fits into the hole where the existing clutch cable goes. I fiited mine in a few hours. (Including drilling the hole in the pedal box). I've since changed that slave for a co-axial unit. I woild never revert to cable. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here can't type Edited by - nverona on 11 Jun 2005 10:15:46 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team RogNeedham Posted June 11, 2005 Author Leadership Team Share Posted June 11, 2005 as ever - thanks for the feedback guys ..a bit more info. The first cable that went was the original fitted to the car - that snapped three inches from the end. The second (brand new) one broke because the nipple on the end came off. this third one is yet to be investigated. I have been refitting the rubber shaped 'grommet' in the end of the arm (off the original clutch release arm) - CC tell me that they do not fit that - is this restricting the pivoting motion. When I swapped the engine Rob sent me the clutch arm and different release bearing that Roger King had fitted - so I'm fairly sure i'm using the right bits. I did forget the grease however - so i'll remember that next time. The only other thing is pedal stop - I have got the biting point set quite high and whilst I've got the hang of just dabbing the clutch - the pedal can travel a fair way. any other comments are welcome *thumbup* Rog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 I always like a good hydraulic clutch system 😬 This wonderful device only seemed to need to be pushed so far to disengage fully then the plates just rattled more. More pushing beyond that will (presumably) compress the pressure plate more and just apply needless additional stress to the cable. If that is what is happening, I would have thought a bottom stop behind the pedal couldn't hurt? Or get the company formerly known as Unipart to hold more stock of Sierra cables 😬 Ian Green and Silver Roadsport 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Perry Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 Its not just the clutch cable you have to worry about though with the race clutches as you can damage the fingers in the centre with too much travel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team RogNeedham Posted June 11, 2005 Author Leadership Team Share Posted June 11, 2005 Norman to answer your question according to the posting Rob put up when selling the engine it is a: Quarter Master Organic paddle clutch hydraulic sounds like the long term solution - I'm going to try one last attempt with a cable + pedal stop, plenty of copper grease and taking out the rubber gaiter ....here goes Rog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team RogNeedham Posted June 11, 2005 Author Leadership Team Share Posted June 11, 2005 Ian I think you'll find the company formally know as Unipart....is still called Unipart 😬 your thinking of Xpart.......a Caterpillar Logistics company Rog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted June 12, 2005 Share Posted June 12, 2005 But do they stock a reliable Sierra clutch cable? Ian Green and Silver Roadsport 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team RogNeedham Posted June 13, 2005 Author Leadership Team Share Posted June 13, 2005 an update. I've just inspected the cable - it's ok - however the bolt holding the clevis pin on is not - the head had sheared off allowing the cable to come adrift from the pedal. I think I've got the biting point set too high and although I've got the hang of only dperessing the pedal until the springs can be heard rattling (method approved by previous engine owner ) - I must be over-extending the travel to create that kind of force. I also need to apply plenty of copper grease this car continues to be a never-ending source of mystery and delight 😬 Rog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete east Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 Just an observation, but my Seven also went through clutch cables on a regular basis. usually breaking at the pedal end of the cable. I then discovered that my car had been supplied with the wrong clutch pedal, my car is a 1990 de dion but was fitted with a live axle pedal which does not have an offset top end bracket. As a consequence the cable was being bent through an angle every time the pedal was operated. The correct pedal has an offset top bracket which pulls the cable in a straight line from the outer cable/sheathing. Since fitting the correct pedal I have had no further problems with clutch cables. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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