Sealing a CC dry sump

[prs]

Just one to sound you guys out. I,ve been having a few problems getting an oil tight seal on my CC dry sump. I don't want to use silicone sealant due to the risk of bits falling off into the sump. I tried loctite 574 put plenty on and it's still weeping all be it very slightly at the back.

So started thinking about this and got my old wet sump gasket down off the shelf. Now if I cut the flap off this with a Dremel that used to go under the sponge plate is there any reason why I couldn't use this, I've thought about it and looked at it and to me it seems ok but would welcome other views.

 

Phil S7SVN

 

 

 

[frankyknuckles]

prs - I used sillicone sealant, you only need a small amount.

However, before you attach the blue plate, you might want to consider the alternative from Hellier Performance which has an oil drain plug in it. The Hellier item will make oil changes alot easier.

see here

 

www.R300.net

[Tony C]

Ordinary silicone sealant is NOT a good idea to seal the sump pan. As Phil mentions, the silicone will set completely and bits can enter the lubrication system.

 

I don't remember the Loctite number, but (I think it's called) anerobic sealant is the stuff to use. It only "Goes-off" in the absence of air, so if any squeezes through to the inside it will remain liquid and merely be disolved in the engine oil, causing no chance of blockage 😬

 

If you've used the correct stuff and it's still leaking you might need to drain the oil, remove the sump pan and investigate further. A pain I know, but it's the only way. You only need a thin bead of sealant.

 

BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

[Jason Plato]

you can trim and use the wet sump gasket, but you should check if the surface of the pan is warped .

 

Dont use silicon - it could block your oilways , use anerobic sealant as described its in Halfords & motor factors for a few ££ .

 

 

 

 

[martinwhitcher]

NEVER EVER use silicone sealant, unless you fancy blocking up the oilways as mentioned

 

Martin

 

MW 51 CAT

Superlight No.171

now know as:Superlight DVA 207

[prs]

Thanks guys, the Loctite 574 I used is the anerobic sealant whether I moved the sump putting it on and that caused the leak who knows. I think I will use a wet sump gasket and trim down the unnecessary areas as at least this should provide an oil tight seal, the thought of having to drain and take it all of yet again is doing my head in.

 

Phil S7SVN

[frankyknuckles]

I'm about to replace the blue dry sump plate on my car with the Hellier plate. I have purchased a sheet of gasket, but is the sealant a better option than normal gasket ?

 

www.R300.net

[I.Mupferit]

Yes but should he use silicon or not, I don't think there was a definitive decision on that was there 🤔

 

Brent

 

2.3 DURATEC SV

R 417.39 😬

[Jason Plato]

Dont use silicon sealant - it sets anbd then then breaks off and blocks your oil ways .

 

What you need is an anerobic sealant - one that only sets in the absence of air . This can then enter your oilways and not block the flow .

 

Its available from Halfords and other motor factors . The rover equvalent is the yellow gooe used on the cam carrier .

 

If the sump pan is still leaking then either the block or the pan is not totaly flat . Yes you can use a wet sump gasket trimmed down .

 

Franky - you should be fine to seal the Hellier drain with anerobic sealant . Just make sure the mating surfaces are realy clean first .

 

Dave

 

 

C7 TOP Powered by Hellier Performance 😬

South Wales AO

[Alex Wong1697456877]

A Vx engine has to have silicone on the rear main bearing carrier and on the dry sump pan - it rarely breaks off once set and if it does, it just sits in the sump pan. the mesh filters on the scavenging pipes stop it being sucked up. It worries me but this is how they were meant to be. All the usual Vx tweeking companies use silicone as far as I know. Vauxhall even specify silicone - albeit their own GM stuff.

 

I guess the dry sump tank is on the other side of the system though so maybe not such a good idea here.

 

Edited by - Alex Wong on 28 Jun 2005 10:58:22

[Mike Bees]

My Caterham dry sump fitting instructions specified use of silicon. I'm not sure that the fit is (always) good enough to use an anaerobic sealant. If any bits do come off then to get in to the oilways they'd have to make it through the strainer on the scavenge pipe, through the strainer on the tank exit, and then through the oil filter. All those bits of metal that you find in the bottom of the dry sump tank also have the same options.

 

Mike

[frankyknuckles]

Thanks for all the relies.

What about instant gasket ?

 

www.R300.net

[prs]

My final solution to this problem of leaks was

1 I used a wet sump gasket which I cut down to seal the sump pan to the block

2 For the blue plate I made a paper gasket and smeared this with Loctite 574 (aneorobic sealant)

Have since covered about a 1000mls without any probs, totally dry thank god.

I would not use silicone, DVA will be along in a moment to confirm this I'm sure

 

Phil S7SVN

[frankyknuckles]

I can't find any Loctite 574, so I'm using a paper gasket. (specifically, Flexoid - Oil Resitant Jointing)

 

www.R300.net